[Mr.Brightstar]

Yeah, Right, So save yourself some work and money, If tapes got no strength just use mud, No tape then. :thumbsup:

All the tape does is prevent a crack from coming to the surface. Mesh tape works just fine If you use a setting type mud as a base coat. If you don't think there's not any difference in the strength of mud you use Go ahead and do A heavy fill with some +3 topping.

 

[cazna]

Good luck my friend, Heres some light reading for you.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/paper-mesh-48/

 

[Mr.Brightstar]

Good luck my friend, Heres some light reading for you.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/paper-mesh-48/

The great debate continues. It seems more and more people are using mesh tape for there flat work.

 

[moore]

The great debate continues. It seems more and more people are using mesh tape for there flat work.

Why mesh just for the seams???? Why not use it EVERYWHERE!!!!

 

[fenez]

I was waiting for you to defend Veneer plasters honour:thumbsup:


I do a fair amount of plastering, maybe 20 to 30 percent of my overall work yearly. I have had very good results with plaster, both veneer and
Gauging which is not to say that it is the only way to achieve a great skim
Finish, I just don't see the benefit of dura bond for a skimming application.
If you skim with plaster you can double back and burnish it which makes it damn near perfect on the first pass plus there is no need for sanding. I use dura bond all the time and it is a good product but I have never considered using it for skimming, maybe I'll give it a shot just to see the difference.

 

[Mr.Brightstar]

Skim coating over textured ceiling. Used Dura bond as a base coat to fill Sometimes Doubleback crossed hatch. Then topcoat with any type of topping. Don't try to mop or sand Dura bond.

 

[tybomb]

The Durabond 90 works great. Everything is solid as a rock now and fairly smooth. I can see now that it's never going to be perfect with Durabond only though. You can sand a ridge for 10 minutes and all your really doing is polishing it.

So what's the easiest and cheapest way to go as far as a top coat? Can I basically put anything on top now? I just need something cheap and easy to sand.

 

[Mr.Brightstar]

The Durabond 90 works great. Everything is solid as a rock now and fairly smooth. I can see now that it's never going to be perfect with Durabond only though. You can sand a ridge for 10 minutes and all your really doing is polishing it.

So what's the easiest and cheapest way to go as far as a top coat? Can I basically put anything on top now? I just need something cheap and easy to sand.

Any topping will work whatever you perfu. Sand with a light. Smooth and seamless.

 

[tybomb]

My friend suggested CGC machine mud ready mixed. He's never used Durabond 90 before though so I hope there's not a problem.

 

[Mr.Brightstar]

My friend suggested CGC machine mud ready mixed. He's never used Durabond 90 before though so I hope there's not a problem.

If it's a topping on top of durabond you'll be fine. Don't waste your time trying to sand Durabond Trowel it flat and fill any heavy areas then top coat of topping.

 

[CatD7]

If it's a topping on top of durabond you'll be fine. Don't waste your time trying to sand Durabond Trowel it flat and fill any heavy areas then top coat of topping.

Sandin durabond is like trying to sand concrete.

 

[DSJOHN]

Havent been checking in much guys--busy--- heres my advice-- I live in an old New England town with plenty of homes that are 200yrs old plus-- when the plaster is no longer sound[falling away from lath] thats when you determine to remove or overlay--- when still sound but cracked- you can very well go the durabond route[we roll the first coat as a foundation] of course after taping all bad cracks- then proceed with usually 3 skims of green top usg mud and sand with a PC, your best alternative is to check into a system called NU-WALL ,Ive done this in Libraries,schools , commercial bldgs, and dozens of residential homes with excellent results. I have to do about 8 rooms in the oldest home in town beginning in March[they raised the home and put new foundation in] thus cracking all the walls and ceilings, they give you a video to explain,but if you can paint than you can handle this------ and I found that for a smooth finish[instead of fine stipple] go over it with their finish[3600] or 1 skim of USG PLUS 3 .Again one of these days I,ll videotape or add photos ,,,really

 

[SlimPickins]

Havent been checking in much guys--busy--- heres my advice-- I live in an old New England town with plenty of homes that are 200yrs old plus-- when the plaster is no longer sound[falling away from lath] thats when you determine to remove or overlay--- when still sound but cracked- you can very well go the durabond route[we roll the first coat as a foundation] of course after taping all bad cracks- then proceed with usually 3 skims of green top usg mud and sand with a PC, your best alternative is to check into a system called NU-WALL ,Ive done this in Libraries,schools , commercial bldgs, and dozens of residential homes with excellent results. I have to do about 8 rooms in the oldest home in town beginning in March[they raised the home and put new foundation in] thus cracking all the walls and ceilings, they give you a video to explain,but if you can paint than you can handle this------ and I found that for a smooth finish[instead of fine stipple] go over it with their finish[3600] or 1 skim of USG PLUS 3 .Again one of these days I,ll videotape or add photos ,,,really

I just watched the video on the Nu-Wall product....very interesting. Thanks for the post. Yet another idea for the mental toolbox and the numerous plaster repairs I'm asked to do.

 

[Mr.Brightstar]

Havent been checking in much guys--busy--- heres my advice-- I live in an old New England town with plenty of homes that are 200yrs old plus-- when the plaster is no longer sound[falling away from lath] thats when you determine to remove or overlay--- when still sound but cracked- you can very well go the durabond route[we roll the first coat as a foundation] of course after taping all bad cracks- then proceed with usually 3 skims of green top usg mud and sand with a PC, your best alternative is to check into a system called NU-WALL ,Ive done this in Libraries,schools , commercial bldgs, and dozens of residential homes with excellent results. I have to do about 8 rooms in the oldest home in town beginning in March[they raised the home and put new foundation in] thus cracking all the walls and ceilings, they give you a video to explain,but if you can paint than you can handle this------ and I found that for a smooth finish[instead of fine stipple] go over it with their finish[3600] or 1 skim of USG PLUS 3 .Again one of these days I,ll videotape or add photos ,,,really

The magic of Durabond molding plaster and lime main ingredients with a bonding agent added.

 

[thefinisher]

Why mesh just for the seams???? Why not use it EVERYWHERE!!!!

Walked through an incomplete house to bid the rest of the sheetrock for one of our builders and everything had been mesh taped. The work looked good actually, but there were cracks everywhere. Paper will always be superior to mesh.

 

[DSJOHN]

The magic of Durabond molding plaster and lime main ingredients with a bonding agent added.

:whistling2:Very true, but if you have never tried a product how can you stick to "my way is the only?" You can also purchase the 4ft x 120ft roll of fiberglass mat material and apply to the plaster with durabond[ive done this numerous times] make your mix wet and apply with roller,than apply over top to imbed with knife or trowel----- any of you guys doing plaster repair work should invest in their small roll[40ft] and try it , you,ll wish you knew this years ago-- 33yrs of plaster and drywall, ive tried many ways and products-- I,ll let you know my opinion on the ones I hate the ones that I give thumbs up to!!!!!:thumbup:You,ll also realize when you need to patch around an outlet or small crack it works pretty much like fibafuse[I think better]:thumbsup:

 

[Mr.Brightstar]

:whistling2:Very true, but if you have never tried a product how can you stick to "my way is the only?" You can also purchase the 4ft x 120ft roll of fiberglass mat material and apply to the plaster with durabond[ive done this numerous times] make your mix wet and apply with roller,than apply over top to imbed with knife or trowel----- any of you guys doing plaster repair work should invest in their small roll[40ft] and try it , you,ll wish you knew this years ago-- 33yrs of plaster and drywall, ive tried many ways and products-- I,ll let you know my opinion on the ones I hate the ones that I give thumbs up to!!!!!:thumbup:You,ll also realize when you need to patch around an outlet or small crack it works pretty much like fibafuse:thumbsup:

Yes I thought I was the only one who used e f I s mesh for skim coating. . And we hawk and trowel all are work. Mud pans are unnatural to us We mainly do traditional wet Plastering. As long as the final product looks good And is rock solid nobody's wrong. Cheers