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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm rennovating an old Victorian house and have just scraped off wallpaper in one of the rooms. The walls are plaster and there are some cracks some hairline and some an inch wide with a few places that open up to about the size of a mouse pad. Also a couple of the corners had crumbled and are now dug out with trenches about an inch wide.
I was told that Durabond 90 is the best for plaster even though I don't see a lot of youtube videos showing Durabond being spread on a plaster wall. (maybe it has a differen't name in other countries?).

I went to the hardware store the guy their told me that Durabond 90 will work great and to just fill the cracks with it and skim coat. I asked him if I should wet the wall or tape anything and he said no. In fact I think he said that I can't put tape down with Durabond. Then I asked about sanding in case I can't get a decent enough finish and he said I could then skim coat another product over top and sand and if I did that I could tape over top of the Durabond with fibre tape and this second layer of joint compoind or whatever it was (can't remember the name of it off hand).

I'm a little suspicious of his instructions. I really don't have to do any prep work other then vaccuming the cracks etc? Dont' need to wet the wall? I can't tape the cracks with fibre tape and durabond and then skim coat with more durabond? How can I tape after the durabond is on and dried and the cracks are no longer visable? :blink:
 

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I'm rennovating an old Victorian house and have just scraped off wallpaper in one of the rooms. The walls are plaster and there are some cracks some hairline and some an inch wide with a few places that open up to about the size of a mouse pad. Also a couple of the corners had crumbled and are now dug out with trenches about an inch wide.
I was told that Durabond 90 is the best for plaster even though I don't see a lot of youtube videos showing Durabond being spread on a plaster wall. (maybe it has a differen't name in other countries?).

I went to the hardware store the guy their told me that Durabond 90 will work great and to just fill the cracks with it and skim coat. I asked him if I should wet the wall or tape anything and he said no. In fact I think he said that I can't put tape down with Durabond. Then I asked about sanding in case I can't get a decent enough finish and he said I could then skim coat another product over top and sand and if I did that I could tape over top of the Durabond with fibre tape and this second layer of joint compoind or whatever it was (can't remember the name of it off hand).

I'm a little suspicious of his instructions. I really don't have to do any prep work other then vaccuming the cracks etc? Dont' need to wet the wall? I can't tape the cracks with fibre tape and durabond and then skim coat with more durabond? How can I tape after the durabond is on and dried and the cracks are no longer visable? :blink:
If it is the old brown bag durabond then it is a good bit stronger than the quickset mud they offer now. I would not take his advice however. You need to tape all visible cracks with any type of tape (I would prefer fibafuse). Then you can skim the wall out with durabond. I do agree that you will need to skim the wall again with an air drying mud as you are going to catch hell trying to sand that brown bag durabond.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK great. I thought the same thing but this guy seemed pretty sure of himself.
Should I be wetting down the cracks or is that not necessary with Durabond?

Also, if I use fibafuse do I patch the cracks with durabond first and then wait until it's dry and then embed the tape and skim coat or do I fill the crack and tape all in one shot and then skim coat?
 

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Fibafuse also makes 3' wide rolls for just your situation instead of taping individual cracks you reinforce the whole wall preventing future cracking
True but it may not be cost effective for him to do that. If it is just a few certain cracks then taping them individually will be just fine. No need to use the rolls unless it is severely spider cracking.
 

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Don't need to wet the plaster, infact if you wet then immediately apply any fast setting compound, you're trapping the moisture and will have to let the compound set longer before scrapping. If teh plaster is loose and coming away from the lathe, you should probable use some plaster washers and screws to suck it back to the wall.



Don't use a mesh tape, cracks will reappear a few years down the road... I've done this in my 1920's home a few times now :whistling2:
 

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If you've got big gaps, fill them with Hamilton's Ultra-Fill. If you've got big cracks, tape them with Fiba-Fuse. Add glue to your set-mud...no matter what it is, glue makes it better:thumbsup:, and will help it stick to paint.

Once you've got everything put back together, skim with your favorite topping, sand, texture (or not), paint, done.
 

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i'm with slim on this one. you first need to fill and level everything with a setting type mud. a re-enforced one like ultrafill or confill would be best but if you don't have that just use a stiff mix of durabond.i also second that there is no need to wet any of the cracks. once it is level you can then proceed to tape it like any other wall. i would go with paper or fibafuse ,but if you must go with mesh at least use durabond to imbed it with.

oh yeah and the more glue you add to the fill and tape coat the better. just white carpenters glue. i thin it with water before i even mix it in.
 

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carpentaper said:
i'm with slim on this one. you first need to fill and level everything with a setting type mud. a re-enforced one like ultrafill or confill would be best but if you don't have that just use a stiff mix of durabond.i also second that there is no need to wet any of the cracks. once it is level you can then proceed to tape it like any other wall. i would go with paper or fibafuse ,but if you must go with mesh at least use durabond to imbed it with.

oh yeah and the more glue you add to the fill and tape coat the better. just white carpenters glue. i thin it with water before i even mix it in.
We used Durabond for Skim Coating textured ceilings. Durabond basecoat +3 topcoat. Smooth and seamless. No mess of demo no cost of new drywall. Visit my website to see more. www.HomesteadServicesLLC.com

Best wishes
 

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For plaster, use plaster weld for adhesion, then you have to use either fiber fuse or mesh to tape all the cracks, then mix veneer plaster and plaster the entire area with new plaster.
 

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fenez said:
For plaster, use plaster weld for adhesion, then you have to use either fiber fuse or mesh to tape all the cracks, then mix veneer plaster and plaster the entire area with new plaster.
Use plaster Weld for cement plaster. Durabond Has A bonding agent added to it. Read the ingredients on the bag. For semi gloss painted walls or ceilings Prime first.
 

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Use plaster Weld for cement plaster. Durabond Has A bonding agent added to it. Read the ingredients on the bag. For semi gloss painted walls or ceilings Prime first.
I would never use dura bond over plaster, it takes a lot longer. I would just veneer plaster the whole thing because it's much quicker.
 

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fenez said:
I would never use dura bond over plaster, it takes a lot longer. I would just veneer plaster the whole thing because it's much quicker.
Takes a lot longer? Veneer plaster ( lime & gauging) Takes 20 to 30 days to completely dry to paint. Durabond 90 sets fast topping takes a day. Lightly sand with a light And you're ready for primer and paint.
 

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fenez said:
Not lime and gauging, veneer, mix it in a bucket and trowel it on then double back and burnish it.
Never have been a fan of one coat Veneer systems. A good base coat fills and smooths out All imperfections. And the topcoat goes on tight and smooth. Solid results, satisfaction guaranteed.
 

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I have done loads of this kind of work!!
First i would get anything loose ot cracked digged out!
Then get urself a bag of 1 coat plaster,wet every crack,hole u have 2 fill!
And i mean wet it! Then fill everything up and u can play about with it for a while putting on a bit more if u need it!
Get what is looking good 2 u and then after it sets,get a roll of paper tape(Dont use mesh as it will crack in time as i have tried both methods)
Tape up the cracks with paper and skim on! It will b just fine!
And if there is loose plaster that looks like the hole will take down the hole wall,dig a patch a foot or so wide and mix up some thin 1 coat plaster and throw it at the hole so u r getting some under it and its sorted after set! Mabybe still week under the rest of the lath but it will hold for years 2 come!:thumbsup:
Sh*t that was a long post,Time for a beer!
 

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VANMAN said:
I have done loads of this kind of work!!
First i would get anything loose ot cracked digged out!
Then get urself a bag of 1 coat plaster,wet every crack,hole u have 2 fill!
And i mean wet it! Then fill everything up and u can play about with it for a while putting on a bit more if u need it!
Get what is looking good 2 u and then after it sets,get a roll of paper tape(Dont use mesh as it will crack in time as i have tried both methods)
Tape up the cracks with paper and skim on! It will b just fine!
And if there is loose plaster that looks like the hole will take down the hole wall,dig a patch a foot or so wide and mix up some thin 1 coat plaster and throw it at the hole so u r getting some under it and its sorted after set! Mabybe still week under the rest of the lath but it will hold for years 2 come!:thumbsup:
Sh*t that was a long post,Time for a beer!
To each is his own way. As long as it's solid and looks good. You get paid. The mud you use is where the strength comes from not the tape. Yes I am a fan of mesh tape. Cheers.
 

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Not lime and gauging, veneer, mix it in a bucket and trowel it on then double back and burnish it.
I was waiting for you to defend Veneer plasters honour:thumbsup:

The mud you use is where the strength comes from not the tape. Yes I am a fan of mesh tape. Cheers.
 
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