[gazman]

I always used a 10" then 12" coating my flats with boxes /was taught that way=====hand finishing was 10" then 14 curved trowel never bothered to change/dont fix what aint broke!!!!

We tape with a homax using hot mud. Then fill using a 5.5 DM. Then 8" then 10".

 

[Capt-sheetrock]

I fill ripples ... there or not.. '' no wrong way to do it right'' ALL bead have ripples ,,no matter what bead you use or what tool you use to run them.A home with 400' of bead .. That's a lot of laps to sand out ,,but then those laps don't sand out not after using hot mud. they show after paint. achoo... bless me.

If you mix some 90 min mud (like a pan full of powder to a bucket of all-purpose) it will set before shrinking, making ANY bead a two coat bead.

If you do this, you can coat 1/2 of the bead, wait till it sets abit, then coat the other 1/2,, no lap marks.

By mixing just a pan full of 90 in a full bucket,, the bucket life is like 4 or 5 days,,, just wipe the bucket sides down, after your done, throw a cup of water on top, then tomarrow, or when ever, just pour the water off, drill it a min or two, and commence to coat the other 1/2 of your beads.

Sounds wacked,,, but try it sometime,,,, your gonna love it :yes:

 

[SlimPickins]

I fill ripples ... there or not.. '' no wrong way to do it right''

Why would you fill something that wasn't there?

ALL bead have ripples ,,no matter what bead you use or what tool you use to run them.

I'll have to shine a light down my bead on Thursday when it's dry so you can see what I mean. Although this is just a garage that gets two coats and sand->paint, and whoever hung the metal fugged it up big time....5/8 of fill on a couple of them and we just used straight AP for this job. And I have to disagree about the ripples...I see them in a lot of knife work, but not so much with trowels. (note: I didn't say there weren't ever any, but they are more than minimal, so much so that the only time they are ever a possible issue is on smooth in hard light)

A home with 400' of bead .. That's a lot of laps to sand out ,,but then those laps don't sand out not after using hot mud. they show after paint. achoo... bless me.

I've done cracker jacks with 600+ feet of bead, and you don't sand hot-mud laps, you run through during/after set and scrape them off (at least I do), no time flat:thumbsup: Then again, I also use light mud, so sanding isn't a big deal. I generally shoot for zero touch-up after sand, although it never works out quite that way:laughing:

 

[moore]

You been thinking about my bead today slim?
I scrape the stop marks right after the hot mud sets also.
When I say I side-stripe my bead,,I mean the entire bead.
I know... I'm a sick twisted hopeless puppy.:brows:

 

[moore]

If you mix some 90 min mud (like a pan full of powder to a bucket of all-purpose) it will set before shrinking, making ANY bead a two coat bead.

If you do this, you can coat 1/2 of the bead, wait till it sets abit, then coat the other 1/2,, no lap marks.

By mixing just a pan full of 90 in a full bucket,, the bucket life is like 4 or 5 days,,, just wipe the bucket sides down, after your done, throw a cup of water on top, then tomarrow, or when ever, just pour the water off, drill it a min or two, and commence to coat the other 1/2 of your beads.

Sounds wacked,,, but try it sometime,,,, your gonna love it :yes:

I tried this recently capt. [picked it up from one of your post] ,,but I only used a double handful .The mud mixed up well ,and run smooth ,,but I saw no difference In setting...so you say a pan full? I will try It again tomarrow on my bead. It's been raining here for the last 48 hrs hard to get a f/n thing to dry..