If your touching up after sanding maybe try wiping dust off area first. You can try a rag, paint brush or even blower on shop vac.

 

I used to have this same problem. Touch ups not sanding out no matter how tight I feathered them. Then I realized it was actually worse the tighter I put it on. Thats when it dawned on me to try leaving the edges a little heavier.. and voila my touch ups sand out perfectly now. It seems contrary to logic but it works

 

There's gotta be something there to sand. Same problem as pulling a coat too tight.

 

I never said anything about chalk coming through,but I've seen it happen myself, maybe the guilty party used an excessive amount, but it has null advantages when adding it to drywall mud besides leaving something behind for different materials NOT to bond well with. How much testing have you done with chalkline and the different aspects of mud, primer, paints, lacquers, acrylics, latex's oil bases?

I recently use the Dewalt blue chalk. It is bolder/ darker than Ervin chalk. I have always used blue and never had any problems with bleeding through.

 

I never said anything about chalk coming through,but I've seen it happen myself, maybe the guilty party used an excessive amount, but it has null advantages when adding it to drywall mud besides leaving something behind for different materials NOT to bond well with. How much testing have you done with chalkline and the different aspects of mud, primer, paints, lacquers, acrylics, latex's oil bases?

 

Have yet to have chalk come through with over a thousand jobs?

 

I have yet to add chalk to my mud period!

 

Magic what problems does chalk cause and when. I just started using chalk for touch- up mud on advise from another taper. You have me worried now

 

after your skim coat sets up, depending on climate/temp go through and touch it up when its stick tacky, on any finish we always go through and spot all the corner bead, butts, angles and seems like a screw, basically crossing anything off and just pull everything tight, like a screw as stated before. This eliminates pinholes and dust filled gouges you might not see otherwise. I use tint also in my mud, not never miss but a different product we came up with ourself, not chalk or anything like that, and I can use red color to tape, skim, touchups texture, whichever step its is and it does NOT bleed through the primer. Chalk has a tendency to change the porosity of the mud and can cause problems later on, so stay away from that, and I don't use the tint to find touchups, I mix it in every box of mud I apply, because its brightens the day !

 

after your skim coat sets up, depending on climate/temp go through and touch it up when its stick tacky, on any finish we always go through and spot all the corner bead, butts, angles and seems like a screw, basically crossing anything off and just pull everything tight, like a screw as stated before. This eliminates pinholes and dust filled gouges you might not see otherwise. I use tint also in my mud, not never miss but a different product we came up with ourself, not chalk or anything like that, and I can use red color to tape, skim, touchups texture, whichever step its is and it does NOT bleed through the primer. Chalk has a tendency to change the porosity of the mud and can cause problems later on, so stay away from that, and I don't use the tint to find touchups, I mix it in every box of mud I apply, because its brightens the day !

MagicCityDrywall rocks

 

Touch ups after prime helps eliminate those problems ... Once the primer is on you have a hard surface over the walls you really only can sand back down to paint unless you're really sanding hard... Then the painter just spot primes and you're good to go

 

Having the same problem but with out the tint.Using certainteed mud and it acts like bond over mud,cant sand the touch up without sanding the finish coat.

 

:lol: You crack me up harvey ! Got any video ? :lol:

 

a friend of mine in whitefish, crawled up a latter and paced a drywall booger out of his nose onto a nail. so, whats the point

 

Stopper, if your mud is drying up that hard on the chain, you need to let it sit in a bucket of water when you aren't running. Keeps all that mud wet. We tape all flats, take a break, the taper head is soaking at this time. When we start angles, the head gets scrubbed. A crummy head while running angles will cause you grief. If it gets crusty while running angles we'll scrub it again.

 

To be honest I wasn't paying much attention to the chain when I was using it, it wasn't till after I got home and watched a few of 2Bucks videos and saw him mention "not getting mud on the chain" that I thought that that might be my problem. I rule the tube out as the plunger was sliding nice and free, I kept a wet rag stuffed in the end of the zooka to keep it moist.

t if i know im using it the next day then the night before i will spray it up with lanox, .

Thanks I'll try that. :thumbup: I've ordered some St Johns Wort too

 

Sounds like your giving it good go anyway, Took me a while to figure out the zook, Now i just use it for corners as i want tradeset for taping and a homax does it well. I dont use a zook much but if i know im using it the next day then the night before i will spray it up with lanox, And up the tube then leave it head down in a empty paint pot over night, Next day shes good to go, If any mud get on it then it wont stick, Or just a hose off and its gone.

 

Everyone has a good point, But ive found its just the mud, All purpose has glue, Its the glue level in the mud thats doing it, One nz made mud we have is a reall shocker for it, Dare touch that up bare and you have a problem, Other muds dont do it, The USG midweight being one. A lite mud thats topcoat only might work but i havent tryed it.

And go get one of those small plastic bottles 100ml or so with a cap and a drip hole, Take it to the paint shop and ask them to fill it with paint tinter of whatever colour you want, I use a deep yellow colour, Then you can tint your mud, It dosnt seem to affect sanding but i usually try and light check after priming and touch up then, If that cant be done then light check before sanding early in the morn on daylight when its darker, you see everything then.

 

One nz made mud we have is a reall shocker for it, Dare touch that

Promix all purpose was a buggar for doing that, it didn't always behave like that though, I've stopped using it.


The problem with some muds is that when you apply a very thin touch up coat they tend to POLISH on, this polished coat is harder than the unpolished mud around it and under it. Villaboard finishing compound is the worst for it.

 

The simplest ifx might be to use a softer mud to do the touch ups with and tint that.

That way a light sand won't affect the original coat.

I just use the same mud myself untinted and use a little piece of blue masking tape and stick that next to it, I've never see tinted mud, I'm colour blind and forgetful as hell so its masking tape for me, can't help but not see it.

????double post... apologies....

 

The simplest ifx might be to use a softer mud to do the touch ups with and tint that.

That way a light sand won't affect the original coat.

I just use the same mud myself untinted and use a little piece of blue masking tape and stick that next to it, I've never see tinted mud, I'm colour blind and forgetful as hell so its masking tape for me, can't help but not see it.

 

I have found that touch up after prime is the only way to let your sins hide. Touch ups before final sand is okay to do now and then. But I found any touch up done after you finish sand is the worst thing one can do, doesn't seem to matter what mud is used by my experience. It layers and blows through, and you have to coat your joint all over to hide it. Nah-uh. Time is money.

 

I half to agree mud star.:yes:

 

....

 

if you go to home depot ask for concrete color just a dip of the corner of you knife in the cap of the bottle and into a pan mix, stuff lasted me 3 years one 10 buck bottle, gave plenty of tincher bottles away also, finally lost the bottle i had:yes:

 

That's nevermiss tint really good stuff

 

What does joe from trim tex use? I noticed he uses some type of yellow tint in the order book. I have some Mod homes where the ceiling joints are humped out and are showing after its primed. I was thinking of adding a tint so the HO would be able to see how much crap i have fixed. I usually use chalk or food coloring, but i was just wondering what else there is. I used to hate mods but i found a new company thats been paying me $42 an hour cash. I even bought a 20" advanced knife for the marriage butt seams. Some take 5 or 6 coats to level them but at that price its not such a pain in the ass.

 

so the trick is not to have any touch ups I guess ^^ but it's totally impossible if you are doing commercial site. This site where I'm working at is stupid. They keep adding bulkheads, new walls, cutting the drywall, etc. and everybody is banging and scratching my walls it's ridiculous. and since the primer is not done I'm still responsible to fix every ding and ****.

 

i get where you are coming from. i am on a commercial site and it sounds the exact same as where i am working. what mud are you coating with? if you are already using CGC green box then there will be no softer mud you can find to touch up with. try coating with all purpose and touch up with CGC green lite finish. also just experiment with the different methods people have suggested until you find what works for you. it does not sound like the tint is the problem i think maybe the touch ups are getting skimmed too tight and compressing the edge like i mentioned before. we are in the same region as far as brands of mud are concerned.

 

i use red food coloring, for vtouch up. course im kinda blind..... then i go in(this is for remodles mind you, and sand and spray the wall stains with kilz. course you guys are doing levAL 4 ? IT AINT BRAIN salad surgery. LEVAL 5 is

 

I sanded out a spec today around 6000 bf...DURING the sand I hit a few scratches and dents ..3 way touch ups ..I cut it tight with thin mud . no going back to sand. I kick a 500 watt around on my block and skim so sand day can be a breeze . If i get called back after prime /paint someone moved a box or stepped through a ceiling.

 

What I find helps is to use a sanding sponge with a medium and fine side. First go over the edges gently with the medium side then finish it off with the fine to remove scratches. And I will always grab a fresh sponge to do touch-ups because have found a used sponge will very often give me that same issue.