Does anybody know what the msg stands for when writen with a steel stud ie: 25 msg galv. steel stud?
drywallnflorida
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SOOO...I'm an architect and I'm looking for a 26ga stud b/c the UL directory (from which we cannot stray) requires a 26 MSG stud for compliance with a particular UL fire-rated design...cannot find a single manufacturer who offers 26 ga stud. anyone know a mnfr. who can supply this?
also: RE 25 ga is like aluminum foil...I think the gypsum will be supporting the 26 ga stud!
also: RE 25 ga is like aluminum foil...I think the gypsum will be supporting the 26 ga stud!
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57 Posts
Don't know of a manufacturer, but why can't you just find an assembly that uses a heavier gauge stud that is otherwise identical?
If you talk to the manufacturer most of them will make whatever you want, for a price, that's been my experience anyway.
Ran across his name (catdod) in a post. His profile: http://www.drywalltalk.com/members/catdod-4137
you know what - good call - I went back to the Directory and there is a detail using 25ga and a much more common size. thanks...seems obvious! lol
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Good work! I'm a little curious why an architect would care, seems like they usually throw nonexistent or uncommon products in plans on purpose, just to be difficult
I'd much rather frame with 25 gauge, lots more money in my pocket on the frame itself and boarding over it. Walls are only as strong as the framer made them, a few well placed kickers an channel and there are no problems whatsoever. Thx for coming out though
Just started useing new structurally cut studs, look like a joist of sorts almost. Bonus is you can use a gauge higher than called for in some cases. First job I've ever seen them on, sorry no link or other info, anyone else know what I'm talking about?
cause I take my projects through construction (firm policy - and one I like) and I have to face you guys on job sites and project managers at progress meetings...I like to try NOT to look like an idiotGood work! I'm a little curious why an architect would care, seems like they usually throw nonexistent or uncommon products in plans on purpose, just to be difficult
. nothing more embarrassing than designing something that can't be built! but this brings up a larger issue - products change so quickly and you guys have your finger on the pulse...I wish our industry was more collaborative - seems to me that a low bid environment makes for disparity among factions - call me idealistic but I wish it weren't so - been on some good projects and some bad ones...best projects are where the contractor and architect work together...just sayin
me too Gordie.
Company I'm working for atm got them through steel form in Edmonton, only bad thing I noticed about them is the curled steel edges on them make it pretty much impossible to use snips or nibblers. makes it a breeze for channel or electrical/plumbing though as its 80percent open (just throwing out a number there) ill be back on the job Monday morning, will get a pic.
metal stud to masonry?
Metal stud to exterior masonry wall:
I'm a little wary of placing a metal stud directly to exterior masonry wall (location of the project is in the North East) as I have concerns RE: rusting and longevity. Is there a reasonably priced product out there that incorporates some kind of thermal break at the leg that could be fastened to the masonry? I'm thinking a neoprene gasket or something like that.
I don't want to fasten insulation board directly to masonry and then fur out for gypsum b/c I want the room for electrical back-boxes and runs of conduit...thoughts?
Metal stud to exterior masonry wall:
I'm a little wary of placing a metal stud directly to exterior masonry wall (location of the project is in the North East) as I have concerns RE: rusting and longevity. Is there a reasonably priced product out there that incorporates some kind of thermal break at the leg that could be fastened to the masonry? I'm thinking a neoprene gasket or something like that.
I don't want to fasten insulation board directly to masonry and then fur out for gypsum b/c I want the room for electrical back-boxes and runs of conduit...thoughts?
Maybe blue skin or sill gasket just where the metal would fasten. Are you going with hat track (fur bar) or stud. I recommend 2 1/2 stud they'll give you the room for anything electrical etc just take an average of your wall and bump I put from the masonry a half inch from your proudest point and then cut littler scrap pieces and shoot them to your wall an fasten to the stud this way also you don't have to rely on the trueness or level of the masonry as you are setting yourself and there's barely any metal to masonry contact
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Coward behind a key board, you must be proud of your self.....Loser
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