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· Rock'n Hawk
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About 15 years ago there was some real nice paper on a roll. It was 150grit, red and made in Croatia. Wish they still had it around. Like everything else that's any good, it just seems to have faded away. Anyone seen it around ?
 

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About 15 years ago there was some real nice paper on a roll. It was 150grit, red and made in Croatia. Wish they still had it around. Like everything else that's any good, it just seems to have faded away. Anyone seen it around ?
that was excellent paper,the stuff lasted forever too,it had a small ugly print of a porcupine on the back did it not ?????
 

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Here's my favourite. One sheet from start to finish if I don't snag and tear it.:yes:
That's the stuff i was referring to...I get it in a 50yd roll though cause it is cheaper than the precuts...im a cheap ass and guys don't seem to waste it as bad off the roll...we used to use a yellow paper too and i can't remember the name of the stuff now...but it was bought out then turned to paper I wouldn't wipe with

never seen the red stuff...used to use some red stuff that was on photo film paper...like a plastic...stuff lasted forever..ungodly cost though...a box of 15 sheets precut was as much of a 50yd roll of the blue if i remember right...

i remember now....golden touch was the name of the yellow stuff
 

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That's the stuff i was referring to...I get it in a 50yd roll though cause it is cheaper than the precuts...im a cheap ass and guys don't seem to waste it as bad off the roll...we used to use a yellow paper too and i can't remember the name of the stuff now...but it was bought out then turned to paper I wouldn't wipe with

never seen the red stuff...used to use some red stuff that was on photo film paper...like a plastic...stuff lasted forever..ungodly cost though...a box of 15 sheets precut was as much of a 50yd roll of the blue if i remember right...

i remember now....golden touch was the name of the yellow stuff
I've used some of that film-back paper, it's really nice for sanding level 5. The guy who had it said for some reason it's great for knocking down humps (although I never understood what the actual paper would have to do with that, being of the mind that it's the backer behind the paper....right?)

As far as flavor of sandpaper goes, it all tastes like sh!t.:yes:
 

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Well Mr Rough sander between coats, Im only going to say this once as its really going to hurt, but you were right. Yeah that did hurt. :censored:
I wont even throw mud in your face on this one cazna ,After reading post on how things are done in kiwi land ,I was like wow :eek:,and to think I always wanted to move to kiwi or Aussie land when I was younger .Good thing I didn't ,you guys would of set me back years in this trade .
Still going to keep telling sheep jokes though .
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
I wont even throw mud in your face on this one cazna ,After reading post on how things are done in kiwi land ,I was like wow :eek:,and to think I always wanted to move to kiwi or Aussie land when I was younger .Good thing I didn't ,you guys would of set me back years in this trade .
Still going to keep telling sheep jokes though .
Lol, You would have loved it here 2buck, but a dumb arse trowel swinger you may have been :thumbsup:

I rough sanded between coats with the flex edge sander with there fine grit foam pad which is about 120g, the next coats were smoother and flatter and less time picking at the blades, My intro to the tools was john lumans dvds and he seems to just dry scrape so monkey see monkey do, but do you dust it down after sanding, on the final sand i notcied i must have coated over the dust and some small areas the final coat came away, it wasnt stuck, I was using sheetrock midweight and a final sand of 180g, its quite soft so i dared not go any courser.
 

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Lol, You would have loved it here 2buck, but a dumb arse trowel swinger you may have been :thumbsup:

I rough sanded between coats with the flex edge sander with there fine grit foam pad which is about 120g, the next coats were smoother and flatter and less time picking at the blades, My intro to the tools was john lumans dvds and he seems to just dry scrape so monkey see monkey do, but do you dust it down after sanding, on the final sand i notcied i must have coated over the dust and some small areas the final coat came away, it wasnt stuck, I was using sheetrock midweight and a final sand of 180g, its quite soft so i dared not go any courser.
I like being a dumb arse trowel swinger,just no money in it:(
No we don't dust it down after sanding,I would say majority of dust falls to the ground .Sounds to me it could be your material,you guys were saying it's junk (i think) .Or you guys where guessing it was sub - par to ours .We have a mud called machine mud here,it tends to flake of for no reason .So we don't use it,and for other reasons too .
I would say you should be able to get away with 120 grit , but skip the pad .The un-padded sanding head will knock down high points better .With the machine work (boxes/angles)your sanding to take away junk so it don't catch in your blades (like you said) .for example,on the ceilings we just walk the joints,dragging the pole sander along the edge at a 45 degree angle .We stop walking when we come to a lift mark and give it a few swipes till it's gone .Your just gliding over your work .
hand work ,like beads,we put more muscle into it,hand work don't run true like the machines do (boxes) There tends to be more ripples and high points etc in hand work .
We just use 80 grit (sometimes 100) b/c you can put less effort in the sanding ,and you can get more distance out of your paper .But for you cazna,I don't think you should use 80 grit,by the sounds of your material down under there,you might rip the paper right off the rock:yes:
by the way cazna,did you ever own a pet sheep when you were young:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Thanks for that, The Midweight is quite dusty and it tends to cling, Nope sorry to disapoint i never had a pet sheep, I come from a commercil fishing famliy not a farming one, and i dont bang fish either??

Actually that reminds me of a story when i was unloading a boat once and the guy i was working with in the freezer starting looking at a gutted fish a bit funny, It was a stargazer fish, Anyway he reckoned if he was at sea long enough, a jug of warm water and that fish would serve his needs?? And no i didnt give it a go :eek:
 

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Wet-Kut 150, 180, 240. I have them in the sheets by package and the big rolls.

I used to use 80 and 100 grit for rough sanding. I have since tightened up on my technique and made far fewer lift-offs (aka stop marks) and am running 7/10/12" boxes, I just use 150 a little here, a little there.

In reference to those that think a 10" is good to finish with; yeah I agree. My 10" run looks good enough to call it done and ready to sand tomorrow. But I just like the butter smooth finish of the 12" now that it's all set up right. I can't say no to 30 minutes of running the box once more for a trade-off of -1 hour of sanding.
 

· Rock'n Hawk
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I think I just discovered my new favourite paper. A company from Toronto is up here building a clothing store and got me and a buddy to tape it. The boss suggested I try this stuff. It has a yellow foam backing and the paper is some type of cloth. And it sands like that Croatian paper that disappeared.
It felt kind of weird at first but I got used to it quickly. Also noticed I don't really have to push against the wall as hard as normal.
I like it ! :thumbup: Now if I can only get my supplier to order some.

Man I hate being 10 years behind !
 

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I think I just discovered my new favourite paper. A company from Toronto is up here building a clothing store and got me and a buddy to tape it. The boss suggested I try this stuff. It has a yellow foam backing and the paper is some type of cloth. And it sands like that Croatian paper that disappeared.
It felt kind of weird at first but I got used to it quickly. Also noticed I don't really have to push against the wall as hard as normal.
I like it ! :thumbup: Now if I can only get my supplier to order some.

Man I hate being 10 years behind !
That's what we use,the stuff with the white back foam is cheaper in price, It's around $29 a roll, Think the yellow is around $50. The price keeps coming down, everyone around here is using it.You can stick your paper sand paper over top of it too. It's basically the foam backing that makes a difference in the sanding. In the old days, I use to stick carpet under lay or Pink insulation under my paper. makes a huge difference in sanding.
If you can't get it up your way,let me know, ill talk to our supply store, he will mail you some. there should be no shipping cost, it's lite weight:yes:
 

· Rock'n Hawk
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That's what we use,the stuff with the white back foam is cheaper in price, It's around $29 a roll, Think the yellow is around $50. The price keeps coming down, everyone around here is using it.You can stick your paper sand paper over top of it too. It's basically the foam backing that makes a difference in the sanding. In the old days, I use to stick carpet under lay or Pink insulation under my paper. makes a huge difference in sanding.
If you can't get it up your way,let me know, ill talk to our supply store, he will mail you some. there should be no shipping cost, it's lite weight:yes:
Thanks 2buck ! :thumbsup: Other than the colour and price what is the difference ? How long is a roll and how is it when it gets slightly wet ?
Does your supplier have a website ?
 

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personally I get the 120 grit in the white foam,the grit seems to last longer. but I get the yellow for the 180, it is the bit better product,,,,,confuse you yet:(
here's their site http://interiorbuild.com/
ask for brian Tessier if you call, just say rick told you from DWT, the guy who won the box handle .Then he will set you up :thumbsup:
 
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