[cazna]

Right here we go, I find this amazing.

Some well respected and highly experenced members of this colourful forum use 100g for sanding mud and sealer/undercoats???

So it weres down somewhat and you use it and it seems to work for you, I personally have seen otherwise but its got me curious as to what other members are using??

Im in the 220g camp for usg total and easyfinish and sealer/undercoats and between coats if you take it that far?? I dont know your other muds are like, obviously some are harder than others so need a courser paper, I use to use 150g for some nz made mud and thought that was rough enough on the boardpaper.

To me 100g even if worn down will scratch mud, tear up sealers and make a mess, been there tryed and done that, not going back.

So whats your fav sandpaper grit for the muds you are using then

 

[proficient Mudder]

I have always used 120 grit on pole sander and/or power sander and average about 50 boards per piece.

Bill

 

[Capt-sheetrock]

Personally, when my 100 grit wears abit, I replace it with a new piece.

 

[DSJOHN]

I use the 150 grit on my PC

 

[Scott_w]

120 grit mostly.

 

[taper71]

Ya I heard you guys from Ontario can put it on with a rake and sand it with a brick and everyone likes it lol.
I use 220 grit on the black widow and a sponge thats about 6 houses used now. I replace my pad and sponge about every 6th house and when I sand it is very light no putting my weight into it. I tried some 150 grit today and it is way to scratchy for my taste even after I sanded cement with it for awhile .

 

[D's]

for rough sand after 2nd coat using 150 grit radius 360 without the pad
for final - 180 grit radius 360 for the field and 150 grit dual angle sponge for the corners.

I've got 100 grit for marking up painted walls and old texture- used it once for rough sanding and once painted you could tell it had burred up the paper - so don't go lower than 150 now.

 

[wnybassman]

The first 10 years I used the PC we used 100 grit exclusively. Never seemed to have any problems with it and we did a ton of houses. For whatever reason I graduated to 120 grit and that's what I used until I quit using sandpaper. The last couple years we used the sanding pads we really struggled with them for some reason. It was polishing the compound more than sanding. The first job or two we wrote it off as "it must have been the conditions" but after two years and all sorts of conditions that wasn't the case. Still never figured out what the problem was, but the Capt. helped me out introducing us to the sanding screens for the PC. These made sanding fun again! lol We are using the 180 grit screens, but may bump up to 220.

 

[2buckcanuck]

we use 80 grit with no pad/foam to rough/buzz sand with,bead gets the muscle
run a 2 man crew so one guy sands the screws,all edges of flats,beads,angles and the butts (left right strokes) with 120 grit on foam backed paper,on a idiot stick as the Capt. calls them.
2nd guy follows with 180 grit foam backed paper on a idiot stick,lite touch sand with up down strokes on all mudded surfaces except horizontal angles of coarse.
we like to use muds that are tougher to sand,they leave less sanding lines ,we use softer muds on screws so rock won't burr as much,and in angles to prevent pin holes.
then fine grit sponge for low areas for check out,medium grit for high areas
also if it's a high visual wall/sunshine wall we 180 the screws,but total 120 closets ,garage etc.....
don't see no need for a power sander,just another tool with a chord thats attached to a vacuum cleaner ,that you got to drag around (not to stir the hornets nest)don't find pole sanding that hard,just find screws time consuming,not hard to sand,just time consuming.....there's lots of them so....
could maybe see a power sander if doing a lot of painted ceilings maybe,but sanding screws with them....burr burr burrsss ,,,,ooopps ,hope i didn't stir up a hornets nest here eh

 

[wnybassman]

we use 80 grit with no pad/foam to rough/buzz sand with,bead gets the muscle
run a 2 man crew so one guy sands the screws,all edges of flats,beads,angles and the butts (left right strokes) with 120 grit on foam backed paper,on a idiot stick as the Capt. calls them.
2nd guy follows with 180 grit foam backed paper on a idiot stick,lite touch sand with up down strokes on all mudded surfaces except horizontal angles of coarse.
we like to use muds that are tougher to sand,they leave less sanding lines ,we use softer muds on screws so rock won't burr as much,and in angles to prevent pin holes.
then fine grit sponge for low areas for check out,medium grit for high areas
also if it's a high visual wall/sunshine wall we 180 the screws,but total 120 closets ,garage etc.....
don't see no need for a power sander,just another tool with a chord thats attached to a vacuum cleaner ,that you got to drag around (not to stir the hornets nest)don't find pole sanding that hard,just find screws time consuming,not hard to sand,just time consuming.....there's lots of them so....
could maybe see a power sander if doing a lot of painted ceilings maybe,but sanding screws with them....burr burr burrsss ,,,,ooopps ,hope i didn't stir up a hornets nest here eh

What is this "burring" around screws you are talking about? Not sure I know what you mean.

 

[proficient Mudder]

we use 80 grit with no pad/foam to rough/buzz sand with,bead gets the muscle
run a 2 man crew so one guy sands the screws,all edges of flats,beads,angles and the butts (left right strokes) with 120 grit on foam backed paper,on a idiot stick as the Capt. calls them.
2nd guy follows with 180 grit foam backed paper on a idiot stick,lite touch sand with up down strokes on all mudded surfaces except horizontal angles of coarse.
we like to use muds that are tougher to sand,they leave less sanding lines ,we use softer muds on screws so rock won't burr as much,and in angles to prevent pin holes.
then fine grit sponge for low areas for check out,medium grit for high areas
also if it's a high visual wall/sunshine wall we 180 the screws,but total 120 closets ,garage etc.....
don't see no need for a power sander,just another tool with a chord thats attached to a vacuum cleaner ,that you got to drag around (not to stir the hornets nest)don't find pole sanding that hard,just find screws time consuming,not hard to sand,just time consuming.....there's lots of them so....
could maybe see a power sander if doing a lot of painted ceilings maybe,but sanding screws with them....burr burr burrsss ,,,,ooopps ,hope i didn't stir up a hornets nest here eh

No buzz here,
I have always used pole sanders in houses, I just started using a power sander a couple of yrs ago with the commercial company I am working for. it does make things probably faster in the big open areas and of course cleaner. But I do find it equally aggrevating with having to drag it around, keep the filters clean, clean the vac bag and on alot of the smaller jobs the temporary electric is overwhelmed and the sander will blow the breaker everytime.
I use 120 grit disc with it and keep the speed setting slow until I tone the paper down some and than pick the speed up. I never have to go back and pole sand behind it and that's tested with a 500 watt light, if I had to sand something twice than I wouldn't even use it.

I get bragged on all the time about how fast I am and without swirl marks but honestly I perfer the pole sander over it as I guess too many yrs of doing things simple.

Bill

 

[JustMe]

Right here we go, I find this amazing.

Some well respected and highly experenced members of this colourful forum use 100g for sanding mud and sealer/undercoats???

Maybe they can get away with it because they're just that good(?)

For what I use right now, it depends on the situation - type of paint being used, lighting, is it a warehouse or lawyer offices, ........ .

I'll go from 120 silicon carbide to 220 aluminum oxide for pole sanders.

With my PC, I've got 100 to 220. Most of our coating is pretty tight - not a lot of 'bulk' sanding usually needed - so I've usually only used it when there's a large enough 'dustless' situation requirement. I stay mostly in the finer grits with it at such times. But I have used the coarser grits when, say, rough sanding 1st coat on things like lower bulkheads - and especially when I can get away without hooking up the PC to a vac. I just use a long cord, and stay ahead of the cloud I'm kicking up with it.

 

[2buckcanuck]

What is this "burring" around screws you are talking about? Not sure I know what you mean.

roughing up the paper,example would be if you kept sanding a spot on the rock where theres no mud ,what would the paper do,quality and make of drywall can affect this too,worse when it's humid out also.
i gave it the name burring,maybe you call it something else

 

[cazna]

roughing up the paper,example would be if you kept sanding a spot on the rock where theres no mud ,what would the paper do,quality and make of drywall can affect this too,worse when it's humid out also.
i gave it the name burring,maybe you call it something else

This is one of the main reasons im turned off courser papers, it roughs up and burrs the board paper which will show through the finished job, been there, stuffed that up before, and courser paper on the sealer only makes this worse, But our board paper used to really bad and easily damaged, it has improved though but will still burr up if over sanded.

 

[Capt-sheetrock]

This is one of the main reasons im turned off courser papers, it roughs up and burrs the board paper which will show through the finished job, been there, stuffed that up before, and courser paper on the sealer only makes this worse, But our board paper used to really bad and easily damaged, it has improved though but will still burr up if over sanded.

Okay guys, try to pay attention here,,,,lol,,,,, I hand skim my nails on the third caot with an 8" knife. I know that sounds crazy, but consider this,,, its the SAME size as the PC sander,,, POOF,,, no burnishing of the paper,,,, Hee Hee (you got to think OUTSIDE of the idiot stick) I run my beads with an 8" knife, cause its EXCATULLY the size of the PC head

When I sand with the PC I understand it cuts in one direction better than the other, so I cut down one side, with the sander just barely touching the paper, then BACK in the other direction with the sander just barely touching the paper on the bottom side, then one real quick pass down the middle to deal with any swirls and/or discrepency's

My point is this,,, If your not gonna change your mode of operation to deal with the PC, then you got to stick to hand finishing and pole sanding.

Try to understand this stuff guys, I'm getting old and then WHO is gonna tell you this stuff???

 

[2buckcanuck]

Grass hopper (cazna) will be teaching everyone in 25 years captain,he might be a master buy then :jester::whistling2:

 

[proficient Mudder]

Okay guys, try to pay attention here,,,,lol,,,,, I hand skim my nails on the third caot with an 8" knife. I know that sounds crazy, but consider this,,, its the SAME size as the PC sander,,, POOF,,, no burnishing of the paper,,,, Hee Hee (you got to think OUTSIDE of the idiot stick) I run my beads with an 8" knife, cause its EXCATULLY the size of the PC head

When I sand with the PC I understand it cuts in one direction better than the other, so I cut down one side, with the sander just barely touching the paper, then BACK in the other direction with the sander just barely touching the paper on the bottom side, then one real quick pass down the middle to deal with any swirls and/or discrepency's

My point is this,,, If your not gonna change your mode of operation to deal with the PC, then you got to stick to hand finishing and pole sanding.

Try to understand this stuff guys, I'm getting old and then WHO is gonna tell you this stuff???

That's what i do, 2 small coats on the screws with a 6" and than skimmed tight with an 8". I think with any kind of sanding, the less edges and unneccesary mudding will result in lighter pressure of sanding, faster sanding time and alot less burning of the paper.

Bill

 

[taper71]

I use angle mud for my last coat on the screws pulled tight with a 6 inch. When I sand them it s just a quick up down and move on to the next one with the idiot stick. I used to grind the edges down to really feather the mud into the board but really it is not nessasary. I hate sanding so I use just the right amount of mud and put it on nice as to sand the least.

 

[Capt-sheetrock]

I use angle mud for my last coat on the screws pulled tight with a 6 inch. When I sand them it s just a quick up down and move on to the next one with the idiot stick. I used to grind the edges down to really feather the mud into the board but really it is not nessasary. I hate sanding so I use just the right amount of mud and put it on nice as to sand the least.

I agree, but I hate sanding SO much that I skim the nails with an 8 and then sand em with a PC. See, I hate sanding more than you do.

And there is no more of "quick up and down" as a PC gives you.

I also use the right amount of mud,and put it on right, I just use less effort to sand it than you do

 

[2buckcanuck]

That's what i do, 2 small coats on the screws with a 6" and than skimmed tight with an 8". I think with any kind of sanding, the less edges and unneccesary mudding will result in lighter pressure of sanding, faster sanding time and alot less burning of the paper.

Bill[/QUOTE
I must be the complete opposite.We keep the 1st coat as small as possible on nails so they don't flare out past the 3"nail spotter, if we know were going to use it.some times finish by hand.
-and captain ,have you tried using you 8" box for final coat on screws,instead of a knife.guessing you tried it
-ANYONE,are the power sanders able to run ok without vacuum,do they not clog up.
and I'm guessing you can use a coarser paper b/c of the spiral motion a power sander makes.....just curious,only used one once,I was not impressed with them,but that was 15 years ago