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Has anyone had to deal with this problem? Builder has ceiling lights that are to be flush with surface of drywall with no trim over the dry wall. It is impossible to cut and install drywall with no crack between drywall and light housing. At best you will have a 1/8 or greater crack. They want no build up, on the surface, of tape and mud to fill that crack. They want no caulk used on the surface. Can you almost fill the gap with caulk, then, float some drywall mud in the remainder of the gap, with no excessive buildup of mud on the surface? Will the mud stick to the caulk? Will the drywall mud not crack with out tape?
 

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There either has to be a flange or some type of finished end on it.
Check what the light manufacturer recommends. Not the finishers job to come up with a way to finish a product that is not meant to be used for the situation. Ask the Gc what the finish is
 

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the only lights i have done without a trim ring came with a molded ring that went on the light and it got finished off just like corner bead. itwas a real p.i.t.a.
 

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Tell your builder you aren't paying for crap work and that it is up to him to fix this problem.:censored:
I'm assuming you didn't get 10 estimates and hire the cheapest guy in town. If you did well you will remember this for next time that you do get what you pay for.:yes:

Personally I would go to lowes or somewhere and pickup some recessed light trim.:blink:
 

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Have him install the lights, and finish up to them. Use mud with plenty of adhesive. Oh, and make sure to dust your cut-outs thoroughly. In situations like these, I like to paint the exposed gypsum with either adhesive or primer so you get a true bond with no dust-failure potential.
Or, you could special order some Vario....they say it's a tapeless system.
 

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those lights should have a mesh tape sheet that came with it . Stick the square mesh sheet over light fixture and hotmud it in. When mud dries you cut out opening for light . They are a PITA. Check with your sparky,he should b able to help
 

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those lights should have a mesh tape sheet that came with it . Stick the square mesh sheet over light fixture and hotmud it in. When mud dries you cut out opening for light . They are a PITA. Check with your sparky,he should b able to help
I had some zero clearance light fixtures go in once.....but no one told me ahead of time. I had to patch them in.........with american clay :censored:. However, you'll be happy to know that glue works with American clay too :laughing:
 

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FASTER THAN A MARE
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I had some zero clearance light fixtures go in once.....but no one told me ahead of time. I had to patch them in.........with american clay :censored:. However, you'll be happy to know that glue works with American clay too :laughing:

Sh%t slim with that Marshmallow load up ya got should mix some in;)
 

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I think sometimes the homeowners may have an unrealistic view of what can reasonably be done with drywall. In this case it may be an unreasonable request.

My advise: JUST SAY NO
I hear ya MS. I had it out with a lady who didn't understand why I couldn't put oil based stain in with the mud when I textured. She didn't understand that the mud is latex and that water and oil DON'T mix...lol. I walked.
 

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post whore
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Joe, it seems like my marshmallow experience really had an impact on you.......perhaps you are repressing an incident from your past?
I found some cool smileys for you slim, maybe you can use it in your signature line:D


Nanew Nanew
 

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Has anyone had to deal with this problem? Builder has ceiling lights that are to be flush with surface of drywall with no trim over the dry wall. It is impossible to cut and install drywall with no crack between drywall and light housing. At best you will have a 1/8 or greater crack. They want no build up, on the surface, of tape and mud to fill that crack. They want no caulk used on the surface. Can you almost fill the gap with caulk, then, float some drywall mud in the remainder of the gap, with no excessive buildup of mud on the surface? Will the mud stick to the caulk? Will the drywall mud not crack with out tape?
I Just read about your problem...I've not had a problem like this, but I am usually able to come up with a workable solution. First off; yes the mud would crack without paper to contain it. And it IS difficult to cut out perfect holes. So, instead of thinking paper taping, "think outside the box" by using automobile body putty, like "Bondo" to fill and seal your gap. I have used Bondo on a number of special drywall circumstances, where I needed a good epoxy filler-sealer in areas where the paper tape would not suffice, and I find that it fills in quite well and it usually leaves a much smoother surface for finishing. Try this: #1. Before you cut the light hole; place the light fixture against the drywall panel at the intended position. make a perfectly close pencil-line around the edge of the light fixture; then use a razor-pointed knife to cut around the line through the drywall paper on the surface and into the chalky material beneath it. Using a razor point will not leave a jagged edge of paper around the hole. #2. Make sure the fixture is solidly installed flush with the surface to prevent possible movement. #3. Don't use conventional mud to fill the gap; try using the auto body putty (Bondo) to float into and around the gap between the drywall edge and the light fixture. #4. After the Bondo has cured, lightly sand over it without marring the fixture's surface. It might take a little more time and patience to do your job in an unconventional way, but it sounds like you are dealing with a completely unrealistic nincumpoop of a builder; you must charge him well for your professional expertise in complying with his impractically complex demands. It is high-time for your builder to get in touch with reality! Your problem was posted in January 2012, so it has probably gone away by now. Try the Bondo idea on another such problem next time. Best regards; Drifter.
 

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makes no sense not to use caulking it the sheetrock is cut tight, by the time it is painted you would not see it in there anyway, besides that the heat from the light would expand and contract whatever is around it so caulking would be the most forgiving because it would expand and contract with the heat changes....
 

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I realize this is long since relevant to the original post, but I would have pieced in 2'x2' squares around the lights first. With careful cutting, you should be able to reduce the 1/8" gap to 1/32" and you leave yourself room to tape the extra joints without any considerable build around the light.

I've always had pots with a finishing flange, so this hasn't been a problem for me, but for every problem, there is a half-a$$ed MacGyver'd solution.
 
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