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Average Member
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I use Fastex or Hamilton's Ready Spray for everything but skip trowel. I really like the way Beadex Light Taping mud throws a skip, but you have to be uber-careful when sanding it if you choose to do so.
 

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Journey Man
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I use bagged , spray texture. mix myself with a drill, or in my rig (that i bought for only $500 what a steel) USG is my fav. brand.
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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I use Fastex or Hamilton's Ready Spray for everything but skip trowel. I really like the way Beadex Light Taping mud throws a skip, but you have to be uber-careful when sanding it if you choose to do so.
we also use Hamilton redy and fastex,havnt seen fastex for a while is it still around?Tapin mud for a skip:blink: never would think to try but I bet it works fine. That beadex tapin is pretty good tapin mud. I know you dont try to spray it though
 

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It is funny but in Minnesota there is none of any that products:blink: I use regular mud for most of my ceiling spray (cheap way) but for fog powder ceiling spray must be better (not too good for sanding).
http://1drywall.com/services.htm
The only problem with using normal mud is that it yellows over a short period of time. Its like boarding a basement and not painting the drywall after its finished. Give it 2- 3 years and the drywall will start turning yellow the mud also. Drywall material has to be sealed for a lasting finish.

Unless of course you paint your ceilings last after texture is applied instead of beforehand. Then it should be ok but hard to patch if something that needs to be repaired at a later date.

My guess is that an additive is added to the ceiling texture products so that this scenario "yellowing" doesn't happen.

For a better and longer lasting finish is probably "OK" to add a small amount of "Flat" paint to the mud so that this doesn't happen. This is a suggestion (something I would try ONLY in a bind) but you are better off texturing the ceiling first then paint afterwards. Its harder to patch though if you have to do a small repair to it.

I would ask your supplier to start stocking the product needed to do the jobs properly though, nothing wrong on using normal mud ( I do not recommend it) but it sucks to seal it all with ceiling paint.
 

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post whore
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It is funny but in Minnesota there is none of any that products:blink: I use regular mud for most of my ceiling spray (cheap way) but for fog powder ceiling spray must be better (not too good for sanding).
http://1drywall.com/services.htm
So it's a Minnesota thing then :whistling2:

In a older thread, Silver stilts questioned why we would paint then spray our ceilings. And I was trying to explain that we have pre-mixed mud that is specially made to do knock down, and I don't think he believed me :blink:

Turns out, it's just a Minnesota thing.

Now it's my turn to be in silvers sites:rolleyes:
 

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So it's a Minnesota thing then :whistling2:

In a older thread, Silver stilts questioned why we would paint then spray our ceilings. And I was trying to explain that we have pre-mixed mud that is specially made to do knock down, and I don't think he believed me :blink:

Turns out, it's just a Minnesota thing.

Now it's my turn to be in silvers sites:rolleyes:
HAHA a link to the thread or "it didn't happen":) Hey if these boys don't have the proper product to use then hey, what else can they do right?

Minnesotains huh. Go figure

Thankfully a scope can only aim at one target at a time.;)
 

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It is funny but in Minnesota there is none of any that products:blink: I use regular mud for most of my ceiling spray (cheap way) but for fog powder ceiling spray must be better (not too good for sanding).
http://1drywall.com/services.htm
LOL, where are you buying your material? Its no problem getting bag texture in the Mpls area. I can get National Gypsum(EM, and Walls & ceilings), USG Unaggregated, and have seen Hamiltons in the past. You can even buy the USG at Menards.
 

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So it's a Minnesota thing then :whistling2:

In a older thread, Silver stilts questioned why we would paint then spray our ceilings. And I was trying to explain that we have pre-mixed mud that is specially made to do knock down, and I don't think he believed me :blink:

Turns out, it's just a Minnesota thing.

Now it's my turn to be in silvers sites:rolleyes:
Nope not a MN thing your just talking to the wrong guys. If you want to texture with the big boys in the Mpls area you better be using bag texture.
 

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If you know a supplier that handles USG or Goldbond(national gypsum),,, they have, OR ,can get bag texture.:yes:
 

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Average Member
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we also use Hamilton redy and fastex,havnt seen fastex for a while is it still around?Tapin mud for a skip:blink: never would think to try but I bet it works fine. That beadex tapin is pretty good tapin mud. I know you dont try to spray it though
Yeah, we have it (Fastex) over here. As for the Beadex Light Taping for skipping, I think we did it one time on a whim, and loved the way it pulled off the knife (mid 90's I think)...been doing it ever since, except lately I've been using the Fastex because I've had some laying around. The taping is great not only because it skips so nice, but also because it weighs so much less :thumbsup:. I don't sand my skip unless I want that specific look, but it sands really easily which is a bonus compared to the rock-hard texture muds.
 

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Average Member
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Nope not a MN thing your just talking to the wrong guys. If you want to texture with the big boys in the Mpls area you better be using bag texture.
Yeah, anyone around here doing volume texture jobs mixes powder in the rig. It's almost half the price of the boxes. I don't do spray textures for the most part, so I spin buckets as needed.
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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So what is the best bag mud for texture specifically knockdown?
there used to be a bag mud called for kd. I believe it was usg. We switched to box spray mud and never looked back at the bag stuff. Dont spray any kd unless pathing into existing. Fastex and readyspray in 50lb box is so much easier to work with IMO
 
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