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Any tricks to replace gooser needle in a pinch? Washed my zooka last night. Went to start running tapes this morning and wtf? Tape won't advance. Needle gone. What a pita trying to advance tape with fingers and four inch. Gonna have to add to the spare parts tool box.
 

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Any tricks to replace gooser needle in a pinch? Washed my zooka last night. Went to start running tapes this morning and wtf? Tape won't advance. Needle gone. What a pita trying to advance tape with fingers and four inch. Gonna have to add to the spare parts tool box.
I have filed down small finishing nails and clipped off safety pins. You can also feed the tape with your middle and pointer fingers on the cutter tube hand, but it's tricky. Don't get your palm caught in the cutter tube rollers!
 

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Good trick Razoo I wrap my hand around the vents during the rought when done I hold it open to let it air out a bit

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If, when flat boxing, you have an extra flat box and handle of the same size, have a helper load mud in the second box. That way once you have exhausted the mud in one box, there is another full box always ready to go. When not filling the empty flat box, this helper can also be running a broad knife across the fresh mudded bands and butt joints too. This gets rid of lap marks, angle gaps, and air pock marks. Use a long handle to wipe ceiling flats from floor. Once you master this system it goes incredibly fast. It is best to have enough mud mixed to complete an entire level before beginning.
 

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A ripper is called a bellyband here in the northeast and it is NOT to be put in the middle. That's the lazy way. The rip should always be put at the top of the wall so that you have two factory joints to finish. Putting it in the middle of the wall will give you a nasty butt joint that will run the length of the wall. Putting it at the top is a courtesy to the taper so he doesn't have to bend down to finish the joint.
If you are to use a power saw to cut rock you should have on a mask and be using a vacuum with HEPA filter to collect the dust. Health and safety is a lot more important than saving the 60 sixty seconds it takes to cut by hand.
Be smart. Hanging is physically challenging and cutting corners leads to a sub par finish with extra work for the taper as well as getting someone hurt.
 

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A ripper is called a bellyband here in the northeast and it is NOT to be put in the middle. That's the lazy way. The rip should always be put at the top of the wall so that you have two factory joints to finish. Putting it in the middle of the wall will give you a nasty butt joint that will run the length of the wall. Putting it at the top is a courtesy to the taper so he doesn't have to bend down to finish the joint.
If you are to use a power saw to cut rock you should have on a mask and be using a vacuum with HEPA filter to collect the dust. Health and safety is a lot more important than saving the 60 sixty seconds it takes to cut by hand.
Be smart. Hanging is physically challenging and cutting corners leads to a sub par finish with extra work for the taper as well as getting someone hurt.

Both good points. I guess the only time we allow belly bands is when the rip is 6" or less. (100" -102" ceilings ) We use 1/2" sheetrock plus one shim under the belly joint and no factory edge on the 1/2' rock. This for a 5/8" rocked wall with factory edge top and bottom of belly joint. 1/2" rock plus one shim lines up fairly well with the factory edge of 5/8" rock. Not perfect. But easier than a 4"- 6" rip on top of wall.
 

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Don't throw away an old hollow-door. Use it as a worktable. Get a couple of saw horses and lay it on top for a light and stable surface area. It's flat, strong, and easy to store! Tricks from a handyman
 

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If you're gonna test out drywall hanging robots make sure you put a 1/2 inch lift on every wall or you'll end up having to raise all the board.
 

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Got plenty for finishing...but lemme see what I can come up with..

When setting the depth of your screw gun, always do it on a piece of dunnage before production starts as opposed to on the wall during production.

Never tack around any fixtures that you will later cut/route out. Do that after.

Nail the edges, screw the field.

In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.

When dealing with ceilings hieghts that are "odd"(8'3 for example), measure and hang so that your ripper goes in the middle of the wall, and not at the top or bottom.

Oh, when cutting cementboard..WHERE A MASK!!


That's all for now, I am sure I will add to later.

Your Turn....
This is a great one
 

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This is a great one
All except,"Nail the edges, screw the field." That is old school. Nails will eventually pop. It's screws all the way these days. Although screws can pop if you sink them too deep. Or if you omit shimming an "Inee" on a wall and use the screws to bend a sheet in.
 

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J
If you have a lot of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.

It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.
Just did this today on a ceiling few inches off 8ft and yeah there wasn't much dust at all. I think the rotor makes just as much if not more dust
 

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When ever the paper rips add another 2 screws on each side so they don't pop through

Make sure your drywall flat on the wall by pushing on it with your hand you almost always wanna be pushing on the drywall with ur hand

If drywall is bulging out grab a scrap with a factory edge or rasp it smooth and smash the drywall in place (i love this one)

Pipe comes out a little and you can't make it in the wall screw the shit out of the spot bulging it will eventually stop popping lol

Running your gun is a bit faster then always pushing the button (dewalt gun has a switch to keep it on)

I also find with dewalt screw gun if u cast the shadow a certain way it points at the spot below where the screw should go( if u miss studs alot or are bad at spacing)

Always have around 6 screws in your hand roll them out to get ready to throw on gun as your screwing one screw for speedy screwing time is money folks

Missed screws go reverse push on screw and rip to side to easily pull out my co worker has a tool for pulling screws out I think is great I m going to buy 1

Kind of new at drywall let me know what you think of tips
 

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Buy a board strecher. When short my hangers always call me and say "it was a little tight on rock but we got out the board strecher and we made it work" I don't know how much they cost, but they must be small because I've never seen it on the job.:whistling2:;)
I think that's a joke
 
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