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Big Sheeter
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just joined but I think we need our own tricks thread.

1. I pre-fill and spot screws the first day with my 2" nail spotter. Yes, that's right, if my hangers are kind enough to V my butts, I run the nail spotter right down the middle with Hamilton's Light Taping right out of the box but whipped up. This is a great trick I learned from a kick ass, lazy old timer. (Works great on high lids!)

2. Buy a 24" Phillips screw driver if you're short for putting lid screws in. (From the same old, lazy dude.)

3. Mix your taping mud right in the boxes, flaps up, bag up.

4. Use No-Coat, roll it on, then coat it right away without wiping it. (Same for any paper bead.)

5. WD-40 on your tub flanges!

6. Take off your flat box springs, that way you don't always have to re-push the mud.

7. Double back your stilt straps, so you don't have a blow out. (Like a motorcycle helmet.)
 

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post whore
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. Mix your taping mud right in the boxes, flaps up, bag up.
I cant stop laughing.....why ? are buckets harder to find than gold in Montana ?
just teasing :)tricks of the trade good idea, here is mine.
long ball-peen hammer to fix nails ,screws ,and tabs ,if the home owner or general contractor dont like it ,then send the drywaller back to fix it,I'm not there to do their job or make them look good
 

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:whistling2:i cant stop laughing at mixing in the box. Are u serious? I wonder how much plastic u have in your mud. Get a bucket and roll the plastic over the sides of the box and dump it in the bucket. Doing it like that gets all the mud. Doing that is like wiping before u go to the bathroom :eek:
 

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Have you tryed mixing it in the box?? I though it was funny too but tryed it this week and it worked sweet as, but flaps and bag down for me, No plastic and yes it does mix all the mud, as the mud circulates it brings up all the mud from the edges :thumbsup: True story, it worked fine for me, i just picked the bag out when mixed and cut the bottom and the mud flowed into the bucket easy as, milk the bag like a cows tit and your done.
 

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What about the one where you mix a couple of cup fulls of 90min setting into box mud and that stops shrinking for a filling coat, Anybody tryed that one, i havent yet but will one day, sounds mad but hey if you dont try you will never know, Nothings learned by not screwing it up first.
 

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What about the one where you mix a couple of cup fulls of 90min setting into box mud and that stops shrinking for a filling coat, Anybody tryed that one, i havent yet but will one day, sounds mad but hey if you dont try you will never know, Nothings learned by not screwing it up first.
I do it on a regular basis. I mix about a pan full of 90 to a bucket of GP. When you do this, if you don't use it all today, just pour a pan full of water on it when you leave, then tomarrow, just pour the water off, mix it up again and go back at it. It won't dry any faster(hot mud never does, just sets) but it WILL stop your mud from shrinking,,, its the duck's-nuts for metal beads.
 

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post whore
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I know one taper who puts 2 cups of sheet rock in his boxing mud ,as the capt n said it was less shrinkage and you can remix it next day,But this taper swore it cut down on porosity (fish eyes,wall eyes etc) cant tell you if its true,dont use metal bead no more ,so no more sheet rock, let me know if that's true if you try it :)
 

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Big Sheeter
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
To clarify, mix the mud in the box with the flaps up and the plastic pulled up and over. Same as dumping a box, but with the flaps up!
The only mud I do this with is Light Taping, never any plastic in the mud.
(I use a Goldblatt Easy Clean Mixer just for that reason. Less occasional plastic slivers in your mud too because of the rounded edges.)

One of my reasons for doing this is because you can mix as many boxes as you need, then all you do is dump them into the bucket all day, no need to head back to the drill!

I do it on a regular basis. I mix about a pan full of 90 to a bucket of GP. When you do this, if you don't use it all today, just pour a pan full of water on it when you leave, then tomarrow, just pour the water off, mix it up again and go back at it. It won't dry any faster(hot mud never does, just sets) but it WILL stop your mud from shrinking,,, its the duck's-nuts for metal beads.
Captain, do you do this with the skim coat?
I've heard bad stories about sanding for smooth or orange peel and having little pieces of hot mud not sanding as flat as the rest of the wall.
 

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I do it on a regular basis. I mix about a pan full of 90 to a bucket of GP. When you do this, if you don't use it all today, just pour a pan full of water on it when you leave, then tomarrow, just pour the water off, mix it up again and go back at it. It won't dry any faster(hot mud never does, just sets) but it WILL stop your mud from shrinking,,, its the duck's-nuts for metal beads.

Dang?? Sure gonna try it now?:eek: Cheers Capt, Go the ducks nuts:thumbsup:
 

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I used to mix in the boxes but what I don't like about it is that the mud sticks to the plastic more and you don't get as much of it out as when you just dump it into a pail first and then mix it. Also, we used to work right out of the box this way and i found that if you didn't use the entire box, then the sides of plastic dry out and you start getting chunks in your mud. I prefer just dumping into a pail and then mixing.

I've never tried the wd-40 trick though I've heard of it before. I know it would make cleanup easier around the tub but I can't imagine it's good for bonding where you WANT the mud.

I use plaster thincoat metal mesh bead (mini-bead) so I don't see how after stapling my bead on, having a bucket of 90 min would be all that much faster by coating as I put on my bead....unless maybe if I was using paper bead which I hate.
 

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Captain, do you do this with the skim coat?
I've heard bad stories about sanding for smooth or orange peel and having little pieces of hot mud not sanding as flat as the rest of the wall.
I don't add it to the skim coat, skim coat is thin enough, its really wax-on, wax-off. Skim is just to fill any scratches and feather the edges. If you add the powder to your bed mud, it will not shrink, therefore making your skim coat super thin. Just give it a try.
 

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I've never tried the wd-40 trick though I've heard of it before. I know it would make cleanup easier around the tub but I can't imagine it's good for bonding where you WANT the mud.
I have seen people use wd on tub flanges, but I'm with you on this, got to make a bad bond for the mud to rock.
Heres a trick for tub flanges, fold your tape just like for a corner. run the mud, then lay the tape on the tub flange, letting one side lay on the tub flange, after your done finishing it and get it sanded, just run a razor knife around the flange and cut the loose tape off. Great edge and no mud on flange.
 

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Arizona Remodeler
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For small jobs: Mix a mix of 50/50 +3(lightweight Joint Compound) & 20 minute (hot mud). It will go on like butter but set like 28 minute.

to the naysayers who say +3 says right on the box "do not mix with anything" i say i dont care it works good !!
________
Live Sex Webshows
 

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Ultimate Wallboardsman
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Box mud is a nickel saved, preventing a dollar from being made.

Spotting screws and prefilling first with a nailspotter is a good idea. Wrap your skid plate with plastic from a milk jug, that will keep it from hanging on joints and reduce drag greatly.

Short people in drywall should be paid by height.

If you want no shrinkage, and for sure drying, use EZ Sand 210 or 180. Plenty of working time to use it in any tool.

If you want to keep window frames and bathtubs clean, learn how to use your knives properly. Nothing pisses off a hand finisher more then a tool finisher that does cleaner and better hand work then he does.

jdl
 

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Spotting screws and prefilling first with a nailspotter is a good idea. Wrap your skid plate with plastic from a milk jug, that will keep it from hanging on joints and reduce drag greatly.


jdl
Can you elaborate on this?? never heard of this trick, but would like to understand what you mean. I am always looking for a new way.
 

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post whore
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Checkers
6. Take off your flat box springs, that way you don't always have to re-push the mud.
no big difference till i did the butts ,made a huge difference there,anyone doing a job with stand ups will love this trick
-still not mixing my mud in the mud box though :) thanks checkers have a beer on me
 
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post whore
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when running 3" nail spotter on second coat run spotter more to the left like this ! O! then on third coat run it more to the right like this !O ! then you will end up with a 4 to 5 inch nail coat (like this ! o ! which makes it more easy to sand
 

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post whore
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to get nice box work , say you run your box at # 3 ,run around loading 4 or 5 rooms with your box set at #4 (tighter setting) dont worry about lines ,fish eyes etc,just get it on the wall as fast as you can,(dont do butts yet). now open box to #3 and go back to where you first started and run your box over your work again and do your butts now.your work will look like glass,
Why will it look good , b/c your first run is reacting to the drywall and is beginning to shrink ,to experiment just 10" a joint and go back 10 minutes later and run it again ,you will be amazed
 
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