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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to get input on how my fellow tapers finish there off angles. Ninety nine percent of the time i run my off angles straight. I chalk line them out and fill where needed and can get the illusion of a straight angle.  <br>I am working on this vaulted ceiling that runs about thirty five feet in length. The ridge line is snaked the whole length due to up and down trusses which were not furred (we didn't hang it...FRAMERS!) I am going to darby on the up trusses but it is so bad that i think that i have no choice but to cove the ridge. <br>Now the pitch is not bad i could push my six in tight to cove the ridge.<br>But i have never had much luck when i cove my angles especially on a ridge hung on trusses, to much movement going on, which means hairline cracks. <br>Speaking of cracks why don't they ever show themselves until after you texture? <img smilieid="46" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.drywalltalk.com/images/smilies/furious.gif" border="0"><br>Anyways any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.<br>
 

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Wandering and wondering
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I would first make the general or whomever is responsible aware that you can not warranty the tape job on the lid unless the hack job of hanging/framing is corrected.

Other than that, sounds about your only option (besides Precisions) is to cove the hell out of 'em. Add glue/hotmud to your taping mud and have at it? Possibly use fibatape instead of paper as well?
 

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re: cove

I usually hate coving but when I do,I always use either Easy Sand or Durabond and a roll of 6" Mesh to start,sometimes it takes another coat of hot mud then finish with reg mud.I have very old flexible 6" knifes or I sometimes use that rubber cove knife.My final coat I go the opposite way to get rid of any ripples.
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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If its real bad :eek: Ive cut some 4" or so rips of drywall and attached at vault creating 2 angles .Like I said if its too late and real bad you can always add more rock and shim and straighten with that. No callback for sure:thumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is pretty bad. I have never used that trim-tex product before, not that i could get it in time to finish the job. It seems to me that it would just follow the board. It wouldn't crack but would it straighten out? It would have to be pretty rigid stuff.
 

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Wandering and wondering
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It is made to lay flat to the angle, so you would need to tweak it to get it leveled out. You could toss shims under the trim to do this, just means floating it out more. Really it depends how off it is though
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was just curious if anybody had any luck when they lay down a cove. I have seen coves years later that look great. Mine just always seem to get those tiny little hairline cracks.
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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ohh ..I see...:rolleyes:
We did addition on church years ago and the entrance was a tall tower like thing with 4 circle windows at top facing all directions.... anyways the ceiling was 4 vaults (angles) and while hanging I saw how bad trusses lined up(shims wouldnt help even while hanging) so instead of fighting it we cut pieces as close as we could:whistling2: and added a 2" layer thru peaks then cut some 4" nice rasped rips with a slight beveled rasp and attached with longer screws. Looked great, it even kinda looked like a cross. The reason we 2 layered was so we could get a 4" finished piece. Easier to finih
 
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Tell the GC it has to be rocked again by someone willing to shim it straight... given that no one could be bothered building it straight. At least remove just the apex boards and re-do them. Hotmud makes a great shim. Tighten it flat and sink screws after it sets. Or tell him to nail a frickin' baseboard over it.

If you work to it, it's going to become "your" bad angle. GC should be insisting on the good work he paid for from the carpenter, not insisting on free work from you to clean up the carpenter's mess.

So no. Not to cove. Rather, to expect the same level of quality from others that's expected of you.
 
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