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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.
 

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I can't speak for synko, but can you get pro roc mud where you are. I think you can
All purpose is what it says, you can tape,coat and skim with it, It's a middle ground mud. It should be the other way around with what your describing
 

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i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.
It shouldnt really cause edges cracks etc, And yes you do need to use the same mud all purpose mud for taping corners with the zooka when going bigger head then smaller, I was doin it that way, but now i have found a much better way which i really like, finally im happy with machine corners :thumbsup:
 

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It shouldnt really cause edges cracks etc, And yes you do need to use the same mud all purpose mud for taping corners with the zooka when going bigger head then smaller, I was doin it that way, but now i have found a much better way which i really like, finally im happy with machine corners :thumbsup:
When you go bigger head first does the side blades on the smaller head ever dig into the first coat? I've always had that problem no matter how I adust the blades.
 

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When you go bigger head first does the side blades on the smaller head ever dig into the first coat? I've always had that problem no matter how I adust the blades.
No i didnt have have that problem with the mud runner as mud flows out of the tool without me having to push it into the corner to get some mud like you have to with an anglebox, The runner just glides on it own mud, the anglebox has weight on the blades and the mud is kinda scraped into the corner with thin runny mud, I never got the hang of the anglebox, i just thought it sucked so got a runner, it just made more sence than an anglebox, Mudrunner mud for me is about zooka mud thickness, to thick and it will stall, to thin and it comes flying out and can make a mess, when you get the mud right there is very little to tidy up and smokin fast, only the corners and bottoms when you get it happening right, It will produce a far superior corner than an anglebox IMO, Full and even with nicly covered tapes, sharp corners and super straight lines. :thumbsup:
 

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I use free-flow AP for taping and texture,, and lite weight for coating.. and it does not bother me to have to order and use 2 different types of mud.
 

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I Use green lid buckets start to finish for everything...verry seldom do I use anything else.once in a wile I will use brown lid usg...lightweight vls ...green lid is allpurpose:thumbsup:
 

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same here use u.s.g. all purpose green lid or mid weight purple lid from start to finish and don't have any problems....never tryed taping mud ect.
 

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On small jobs I'd use all purpose only and the work turned out fine. I've also used all purpose for taping all my angles because someone on this site said it shrank back less than taping, and turns out it's true. But lately I've stuck with taping mud for taping and filling mud for filling. The size of the job kinda demands it.
 

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Rock'n Hawk
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i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.
I've found that Synko yellow IS needed just for the reasons you mentioned. The fact that the Synko (yellow and all purpose) come out of the box like a chunk of cold butter leads us to add quite a bit of water to soften it up for machines. Yellow seems to have more glue in it as advertised and withstands more water than all purpose without degrading its' performance. My advice - stay away from Stynko.:D ProRoc is much nicer to use. Less water and less elbow grease. But still use yellow taping for security and piece of mind.

Yellow can be used in machines with no problem. And most tapers lay their angle tape with a 2.5" flusher and then finish with a 3". That routine covers the angle completely leaving no yellow mud to sand.

All purpose works all the way through but you must be diligent. I do it many times too !
 

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My advice - stay away from Stynko.:D ProRoc is much nicer to use. Less water and less elbow grease. But still use yellow taping for security and piece of mind.
YEEAHHHHHHH!!

Proroc yellow creates such a strong bond with the wall, you'll remember never to miss wiping any tapes. :D And clean your boogers off the wall before they dry. The mud will delaminate the board paper if you scrape it off.

I think you can use as much water as with Synko muds. The difference I find is that ProRoc will never get as runny. It seems to stand up better when you thin it down so that you'll always have some glue on your tapes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i think i figured out my problem. i've been doing a lot of smallerjobs and they have all been hung by carpenters so i have been doing a lot of pre fill with confill. i have then been taping over it after it sets but it is not dry. the job i taped out last night i went and coated today and i did not have any problems because i prefilled two nights ago so my prefill had a chance to dry. the only bubbles i got were a couple on the beads probably from using my new corner applicator and not leaving quite enough mud on. no biggie just a little fix. i used to always tape over my wet prefill when i was using taping mud but that was on bigger jobs. i can get proroc but not from anywhere super convinient so i would have to stock up on it every time. the last time i used proroc i was one box short and i went and picked up some synko from rona for touchups and i got really bad ridges from the slightly different consistancies. i had to wait until it was primed and then touch up some stuff. it sucked. proroc blue does seem way harder to sand than synko blue so i would imagine it might have a bit more glue in it.
 

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Top choice for taping mud also. Second choice would be proform all purpose. Sounds like quite the deal how much did the whole pallet cost.
 

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Tell your carpenters to stop wasting money buying con fill.
 
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