[jandkdrywall]

Has anybody used a 4" angle head for smooth walls, and if so what do you think of them? I've had a cheap 3.5" and hated it, thinking of buying either a tapetech 3.5 or a tapeworm 4.

 

[gazman]

I have the 4" Tapeworm, it is a great head. But it does take a bit of getting used to. I run it using a mudrunner, I dont know how it would go with an angle box.

 

[cazna]

As what gaz said, I too have the tapeworm and mudrunner, Its great, I also have the Goldblatt 4, Its bigger again than the tapeworm, Not wider, just bigger skids, They are the same size as the top blades, But i havent tryed out yet.

 

[A.T.T.-Craig]

From the feedback I've heard. The TW 4" is a great angle head if you have to do your own sanding. (no burning into the tape). However, if you have to push it with a standard angle box you will be worn out by the end of the day to fill that huge area.
If you use it with a mudrunner, you'll need to get the right mixture of mud and use liquid dishwashing soap or No-pock, to allow the mudrunner to keep up in speed.

Again, since I don't run these tools, I can only comment on my customer's feedback. This is one example of getting a-lot of response back from the end user.

 

[cazna]

Here is the tapeworm, and goldblatt 4 inch heads next to dm 3.5.
That tapeworm is a real sweet head, Does a great job. Isnt the goldblatt a whopper, The biggest head i think. Only on the skids though, Same width as the tapeworm.

 

[Philma Crevices]

Here is the tapeworm, and goldblatt 4 inch heads next to dm 3.5.
That tapeworm is a real sweet head, Does a great job. Isnt the goldblatt a whopper, The biggest head i think. Only on the skids though, Same width as the tapeworm.

Are there any plasic parts on those Goldblatt angleheads?

 

[Jason]

From the feedback I've heard. The TW 4" is a great angle head if you have to do your own sanding. (no burning into the tape).

This would have more to do with the tape radius left by the roller and first pass.

However, if you have to push it with a standard angle box you will be worn out by the end of the day to fill that huge area.

Tell them to use thinner mud. It's only a shallow fill.

Again, since I don't run these tools, I can only comment on my customer's feedback. This is one example of getting a-lot of response back from the end user.

You have to be nice because they are your customers but I'm not similarly constrained so I can be a little more blunt. If they haven't figured out the two points above then I would take their feedback with a grain of salt.

 

[cazna]

These are Goldblatts, Only the 4 has a black plastic peice in the centre, Its got a locking clip and clip to hold back the springs.
The 3.5 and 2 are very good heads, Run great.
Im not saying if anyone else gets them they will be good as i think goldblatts quaility control isnt the best, But, These work very well, Dont know about the 4 yet, Havent tryed it, But aint she grand , Yes i know, im a tool magpie

 

[cazna]

This would have more to do with the tape radius left by the roller and first pass.



Tell them to use thinner mud. It's only a shallow fill.




You have to be nice because they are your customers but I'm not similarly constrained so I can be a little more blunt. If they haven't figured out the two points above then I would take their feedback with a grain of salt.

Have you actually used a tapeworm 4 jason?? Smaller heads cover less than the tapeworm, Hence tape only barly covered in some cases, This 4 inch head covers much more, Less chance of tapeblow out. But yes, the tape rolling needs to right as well.

Bollocks, Its a deeper fill than smaller heads, You wont run it on an angle box, You need a runner, ATT Craig is correct, Just ask srdrywall, He tryed it, and brandon at walltools traded him a 3.5 head.


He said the truth, Your feedbacks no better.

 

[Jason]

Have you actually used a tapeworm 4 jason?? Smaller heads cover less than the tapeworm, Hence tape only barly covered in some cases, This 4 inch head covers much more, Less chance of tapeblow out. But yes, the tape rolling needs to right as well.

Bollocks, Its a deeper fill than smaller heads, You wont run it on an angle box, You need a runner, ATT Craig is correct, Just ask srdrywall, He tryed it, and brandon at walltools traded him a 3.5 head.


He said the truth, Your feedbacks no better.

On each wall, one side of the blade rests on the wall and the other side tracks down the tape radius, no? If not then something is misset. Angles shouldn't be a deep fill. If you've got mud built up in the angle, something's wrong. There shouldn't really be any need for a 4" width to graduate corner kickout. Is your mud deeper than 1mm over the board at the edge of the tape, caz?

Yes, there will be a few microns more of mud over the tape edge as the angle head gets wider but I think you're mistaking depth of fill for the mud's resistance to flow to the outside of a 4" blade.

 

[cazna]

On each wall, one side of the blade rests on the wall and the other side tracks down the tape radius, no? If not then something is misset. Angles shouldn't be a deep fill. If you've got mud built up in the angle, something's wrong. There shouldn't really be any need for a 4" width to graduate corner kickout. Is your mud deeper than 1mm over the board at the edge of the tape, caz?

Yes, there will be a few microns more of mud over the tape edge as the angle head gets wider but I think you're mistaking depth of fill for the mud's resistance to flow to the outside of a 4" blade.

The top blades on an angle head should be crowned, To leave some mud there, Not flat, or it can scrape it off, ish, You know what i mean. The tapeworm 4 has a far ish crown, and its bigger, So it needs more mud, Its prob 1-2mm thick at the tape edge, I can quickly pass a machine sander over the corners and not get a tapeblow out, I couldnt do that with a smaller head. It really does need a runner or you will struggle :yes:

 

[Jason]

The top blades on an angle head should be crowned

Interesting. This has not been my experience.

 

[cazna]

Interesting. This has not been my experience.

Interesting again, If i took my DM, Goldblatt, and tapeworm heads and put them on a table in a dark room and took a small torch and put it behind the angle head and looked accross the table at it, I see light, They all have a crown in the top blade factory set, If this crown taken out and the blades made flat, Then its a scraper, It will float over the mud if you use it lightly, But as you would push harder or softer then the muds different thickness, Push harder, then less mud over the tape, Not such an issue if the top blade has crown. Better tape cover.

I did post some pics on it once, Dammed if i could find that thread again??

I think its ATT Craigs turn for a say, Do you set the top blade on the angle heads with a slight crown or am i full of crap??

Like this.

 

[Collin]

The top blades on an angle head should be crowned, To leave some mud there, Not flat, or it can scrape it off, ish, You know what i mean. The tapeworm 4 has a far ish crown, and its bigger, So it needs more mud, Its prob 1-2mm thick at the tape edge, I can quickly pass a machine sander over the corners and not get a tapeblow out, I couldnt do that with a smaller head. It really does need a runner or you will struggle :yes:

I was thinking on getting the TW 4" for the finish , I am flushing with 3.5 TT and finishing with it
I am using a CP tube to apply the mud for finish will CP tube work with the TW 4" ?:blink:

 

[Collin]

not putting the angle head on the CP but running it after :whistling2:

 

[Jason]

Interesting again, If i took my DM, Goldblatt, and tapeworm heads and put them on a table in a dark room and took a small torch and put it behind the angle head and looked accross the table at it, I see light, They all have a crown in the top blade factory set, If this crown taken out and the blades made flat, Then its a scraper, It will float over the mud if you use it lightly, But as you would push harder or softer then the muds different thickness, Push harder, then less mud over the tape, Not such an issue if the top blade has crown. Better tape cover.

I did post some pics on it once, Dammed if i could find that thread again??

I think its ATT Craigs turn for a say, Do you set the top blade on the angle heads with a slight crown or am i full of crap??

I've only run Tapetechs. They have no crown. Tape coverage is afforded by the tape radius in the angle from the roller.

Sure your table is flat? It's probably one of those Kiwi tables.

 

[Philma Crevices]

Like this.

No, table must be warped

I've been fixing company's tools here lately, with everything I've read on rebuilding angleheads, and installing blades, it wouldn't seem like there would be any crown to it

*edit Ugghh, you beat me to it Jason.. active night lol

 

[Jason]

Thanks for adding the photo caz. Looks like it would do more for leaving a clean feather than for building over the edge of the tape tho?

My TT has a set screw that I could use to crank the end of the blade forward but I've just never had to bother. Radiused designs like you get on tin flushers kinda put me off. Makes for a lumpy transition from board to mud. Your radius is looking a lot tighter than the tin ones tho.

 

[cazna]

I was thinking on getting the TW 4" for the finish , I am flushing with 3.5 TT and finishing with it
I am using a CP tube to apply the mud for finish will CP tube work with the TW 4" ?:blink:

Why yes, With an advance or tapepro internal mudhead that would work well, Not so much the can am, Its smaller and puts mud in the centre, The advance spreads it wider.

As you prob know, A quick, light sand with a flex edge in the corners before second coat helps.

You guys might like to read this thread, The Tool Doc had the last say, Tool doc is All Wall. http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/goldblatt-g2-corner-finishers-1258/

 

[A.T.T.-Craig]

I think its ATT Craigs turn for a say, Do you set the top blade on the angle heads with a slight crown or am i full of crap??

Like this.

When I am done setting up angle heads, I will only tighten the 2 of the 3 setscrews (leaving the middle one loose).
Then while holding the frame of the head, I will push down the middle of the blade with my thumb and tighten the center setscrew. Pushing so hard that it leaves a mark on my thumb for awhile.
If a customer has requested that they want it to leave even more mud, I will do all of the above, then gently adjust the setscrew behind the carbide on the outside. (near where the carbide blade meets the skid blade). Adjusting this too far out could snap the carbide though.