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I am a decorative painter and texturer by trade, though I mostly work in new builds and have never encountered this issue. Done a bit of research and just want to run my solutions by all of you.

I am getting ready to texture and multi-color a salon. The problems? The original wall treatment is some sort of fabric based application. It has since been painted many times with high-gloss paint. The final outcome is a high gloss surface with thousands of 3milx3mil raised squares. Weird, I know...

I use glazes that I tint myself for the multi-color(Faux Effects). So, even if I were to just be painting the wall I would need to de-gloss and/or prime. Where I run into the problem is the need to also skim/retexture and latex before I even do the pretty stuff.

So, my solution is as follows, stop me and yell if you disagree or can add to it.

The original wall treatment is on there and not going anywhere, ever.

So...
1. Scuff gloss paint with 120 grit
2. double coat with Zinsser BullsEye 1-2-3
3. Skim coat with Green Lid JC, twice minimum
4. Apply hand trowel Sante Fe Style texture(Probably heavier, more dramatic)
5. Coat with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 again(Needed?)
6. 2-coat with eggshell latex
7. Paint with glazes

Outside of this solution, how long would I need to let the first 2 coats of primer dry before adding the skim coat over the original wall treatment? Am I an the right path for this project?

Thanks in advance for all of the help!
 

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Hmm, even with scuffing, you're not going to create a mechanical bond in the recessed areas of the squares. Personally, I'd use one coat of oil-based primer (heavily applied), or Sherwin Williams adhesion primer. Then, I'd skim with hot mud with a latex adhesive added (SuperBond, MuddMax, Elmer's). When that is bone dry, I'd skim tight with whatever mud you want, and texture after that.

Personally, when I get my finish on, I like to see an oil based primer applied over it, so no moisture from the latex paint can release anything down below. You should be safe because of the initial coat of primer, but if it's high end, insurance is always good.

I've used hot-mud with glue directly over glossy paint, and as long as it has dried thoroughly before skim coat it works out great. It WILL delaminate in areas if it's not dry before skim. I promise.....it will.:yes:
 

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Sure I can skimcoat one bedroom for less than $1500. All other estimates were $2500 +.
What the frick happened to those walls?

I just gave an estimate on an old brick townhouse with lots of plaster and wallpaper over plaster and cracks galore.

It's where I decided that I might use insulators' mat (for when they blow fiberglass into the walls) to "tape" the whole surface. It's basically FibaFuse, but much more biggerer.
 

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SlimPickins said:
What the frick happened to those walls?

I just gave an estimate on an old brick townhouse with lots of plaster and wallpaper over plaster and cracks galore.

It's where I decided that I might use insulators' mat (for when they blow fiberglass into the walls) to "tape" the whole surface. It's basically FibaFuse, but much more biggerer.
For stubborn ass wallpaper That doesn't want to come off. Chip the surface With a Plaster's Hatchet, the Basecoat will key into the plaster or drywall. I have used E.I.F.S. mesh before 4 ft x 200ft. It is unnecessary I believe. Repair any cracks before the base coat goes on. And use a hot mud with glue.

Skim Coating saves Thousands. Capitalize on it. I would be done with this project today if it wasn't so humid.
 

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moore said:
Have you ever tried using a dehumidifier ? They work really well (IMO)
On rainy /humid days the mud is trapped . I couldn't live without mine.:thumbsup:
Never tried it. It makes sense. I Usually use a fan but When humidity is high they don't do shi*.

Might have to pick one up this week. I got same job Different house.
 

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36" rolls of fibafuse..... end of story. :yes:
I made a nest to hold my 36" roll..it sit off the floor keeping it clean from dirt and hairs and on the leds I use my 18 '' roller to roll my ff :thumbup: that keeps the ff off your head when you work alone
 

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good idea. That is the ONLY thing I HATE about Fibafuse. Once it un-rolls itself it does not roll back up :mad:. That problem is amplified with the big rolls :censored:. The big rolls of fuse help me get away with murder though :yes:.
 
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