[gwtschudi]

Hi All,

Just found your site and am hoping I can get a little advice on a large ceiling repair. There was a water leak in a room above a garage and a large section of the drywall (18' x 14') was damaged and has been removed and the framing dried and treated. The framing is such that the opening is bounded on two sides by trusses, the third side by a joist, and the fourth side by a wall.

My question is this... On the sides of the openings where the ends of my new drywall sheets are going to land, should I extend the opening another joist space for every other sheet so that I do not have such a long continuous run of end butt joint?

I hope this makes sense what I am asking. I look forward to your advice on this.

Thank you!

 

[picks drywall]

personally i wouldnt go to that extent. i would just float it out with mud. you can lessen that hump if your remaining rock was cut at joists edge by using a nailer for new sheet ends that is 1/16th higher than remaining rock. it then becomes a dip instead of a hump. much easier to deal with, you fallow?

 

[gwtschudi]

I do, thanks for the input. Unfortunately the existing rock was cut back to the centerline of the joists so I think I am just going to have to float wide. For what its worth it looks like this section in the area of the infill joists was originally railroaded (top to bottom of pic). Think I can get away with that again or would you just run left to right? The only problem is going to be bit at the top of the pic that I will still need to railroad. That remainder is a clumsy dimension too, something like 5'-6".

 

[gwtschudi]

These are the two layout options I am considering. Pros and cons of each?

 

[Mjaw]

These are the two layout options I am considering. Pros and cons of each?

View attachment 42071

The easy one is fine just float it wide

 

[gwtschudi]

Easy way being left/right, correct? The length of joint works out to be about the same either way.

 

[Mjaw]

Easy way being left/right, correct? The length of joint works out to be about the same either way.

Option 1

 

[Shelwyn]

It's probably too late for my input but option 1 and use wood furring board on the left side where the old and new sheets of drywall meet so the joints are even and aren't wobbling.

 

[gwtschudi]

Yes, I already had it installed by the time you commented. I did go with option 1. When you said to add a furring board did you mean at the top left corner where the framing switches direction back for a short bit? I did not add a backer board there. I hope I do not regret it. Not much I can do about it at this point I guess. Thanks for taking the time to reply.