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What do i need to do with the beveled edge that is butting finished wood to make it look good after its painted? Fill in the bevel or just the screw heads. I'm using no bead.
 

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Mudder Lover
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What do i need to do with the beveled edge that is butting finished wood to make it look good after its painted? Fill in the bevel or just the screw heads. I'm using no bead.
:oops::laughing: :laughing:
Sounds like the board was hung wrong. The bevels should not be up against the wood but up against other bevels. Its your call but you might consider reboarding and have the edge against the wood not bevelled :whistling2:
 

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Yeah, fill the bevel and tell them it will crack where it meets the wood, it would need another filler strip of matching wood to cover the crack.
 

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Flat tape with paper tape to the wood. Coat the tape and know you're gonna need to caulk tight to the wood cause like previously said it will crack like it always does when the wood shrinks.
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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:oops::laughing: :laughing:
Sounds like the board was hung wrong. The bevels should not be up against the wood but up against other bevels. Its your call but you might consider reboarding and have the edge against the wood not bevelled :whistling2:
Just friday my boarder asked , where do you want the bevel on a paticular piece,, you want it at the angle or at the outside corner ( bead ) I said neither he was like:blink:. Bevels to bevels boys. We really need some square edge
 
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Is it a wood wall your guy boarded off,, or a wall off a wall?

Board should be horizontal so the butt would come off the wall no stand ups on walls over 48" and less in your case where you need a square corner. If the wood is on the lid i guess you could rip off the top bevel and use a 54 for the bottom or just stack down and have an extra bevel.

More of a ? than an answer for ya i did a place with wood lids before and didn't even think of the problems it could cause.:whistling2:

Sometimes you need to ask us to do things different from what were used to different situations need different applications if it were me i would put the boards on for ya its a bit more footage why not:thumbup:
 

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Average Member
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Just friday my boarder asked , where do you want the bevel on a paticular piece,, you want it at the angle or at the outside corner ( bead ) I said neither he was like:blink:. Bevels to bevels boys. We really need some square edge
If you want neither, you're going to pay extra.
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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he was hanging a 10' ( roughly) vertically hung rip on side of fireplace, the piece was around 2' wide by 10' high with a slant on top( vault lid). Where would you put the bevel?? Angle or outside corner? Beings that I am a taper I answered the question the best way I could, Neither
 

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he was hanging a 10' ( roughly) vertically hung rip on side of fireplace, the piece was around 2' wide by 10' high with a slant on top( vault lid). Where would you put the bevel?? Angle or outside corner? Beings that I am a taper I answered the question the best way I could, Neither
Personally, I would hang the bevel toward the fireplace, chances are you're going to have to do some work there anyway, and if not, it's not too bad to fill a bevel. I try to avoid putting the bevel where the metal goes because I use metal bead and put it on pretty tight....it'll crown if I do that, otherwise I have to try and hold the metal out just enough to cover the recess when coated and I find that to be a pain in the old rear end. However, if you're using that mud on bead from Trim-Tex, put the bevel on the bead side....that stuff sticks plenty far enough out from the wall to cover it:whistling2:

Also, not trying to be confrontational about where the bevel goes.....it goes wherever YOU want it:thumbsup:
 

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The mason should leave a 1/2 gap around the fire place by laying his brick / rock / stone etc.. against a strip of 1/2 ply board ..
The drywall will slide behind. If the drywall is hung before hand ..The bevel should not matter.
J channel around a fire place looks cheap IMO.
That is exactly what i was going to say. I have recently followed behind the same mason for new construction lately and he always leaves me the 1/2 inch gap. Huge pain in the ass otherwise. IMO if they dont leave the gap it probably would end up better looking to maybe even take a piece of plywood, butt it to the material and use one of those vibrating multi tool thingamabobs to follow down the face of the plywood creating a 1/2 inch gap so you could slide the drywall back behind(probably have to take a small hammer and rough up the sharp edge if its stone). Much better looking than butting board to the side of some brick / cultured stone / whatever uneven rocky surface.
 

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Drywall Contractor
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The mason should leave a 1/2 gap around the fire place by laying his brick / rock / stone etc.. against a strip of 1/2 ply board ..
The drywall will slide behind. If the drywall is hung before hand ..The bevel should not matter.
J channel around a fire place looks cheap IMO.
J Channel and coat over is what I normally do so you don't see the J on the surface just leaves a clean edge agents the brick or wood. Like doing window returns.
 

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The mason should leave a 1/2 gap around the fire place by laying his brick / rock / stone etc.. against a strip of 1/2 ply board ..
The drywall will slide behind. If the drywall is hung before hand ..The bevel should not matter.
J channel around a fire place looks cheap IMO.
I think we are off topic here you and I .
The question is:
What do i need to do with the beveled edge that is butting finished wood to make it look good after its painted? Fill in the bevel or just the screw heads. I'm using no bead.
J Channel can't be installed after the rock is butt finished and brick has nothing to do with it...
:eek:
 
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