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people always complain about the strength and the you need to use hot mud. personally i never had a problem with mesh i think people just like to argue over anything. so i would say the strength and maybe make it stick better pisses me off when it doesnt stick good. gotta try that fibafuse you got when i get around to it
 

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Got a Roll of fiba fuse about a month ago, used it on 2 small remodel jobs, luv the stuff on butt joints[that someone else hung] and HO wanted the wallpapered paneling taped and skimmed, it worked great, nice product. Rips too easy for mechanical tools in my opinion.
 

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Hey Guys-I know there has been some heated debate over paper vs. mesh tape, but if you could improve mesh tape how would you do it? what would it be like? what needs be better?
If mesh was made so you could tape a whole job, corners & all, BEFORE starting the mudwork while maintaining a strength that would impress "paper purists", what more could you ask for?
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I got some fibafuse from a sherwin williams, all I kept thinking was "this is exactly what mesh should be" if you could make that stuff self adhesive like traditional mesh tape... it would be unbeatable, as is right now it really doesn't save any time so it would be a hard sell to get any finisher to adopt it. Basically if it was self adhesive you would have a tape that could be installed with regular mud, it really would be the fastest way to hang tape.
 

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Hey Guys-I know there has been some heated debate over paper vs. mesh tape, but if you could improve mesh tape how would you do it? what would it be like? what needs be better?
The debate over Mesh is the strength so I would go with that, I think fibafuse is the next generation because it will run in auto tools where mesh never will. I don't think fuse would ever be self adhesive because it is too dense for enough mud flow behind it. For marketing purposes I would take the word "Fiba" out and lower the price, you would be surprised how many people out there would like a product and swear by it because it's cheaper. To sum up an ideal tape, it would have to work with all types of auto tools, be compatible with a/p and hot mud, and be stronger than anything else available....Oh wait...that sounds familiar...I would work on the product you've already got because I think you are on the right track.
DSJOHN - I found if the mud was too thick in the banjo it can rip.
Saul - In the bazooka the advancing pin worked fine for me but mine might be blunt (if you were talking about running Fuse).
 

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I'd gladly carry a 3" roll for fixing ugly corner breaks in homeowner boarding, and for covering a moved duplex plug cutout (with new backing board behind).

I can't imagine using a fibreglass tape for off angles unless it had a smooth plastic folding joint in the center. No coat is hard to beat in this regard. I don't even use straightflex much anymore.
 

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i agree with fenez. if i could just roll the stuff on the walls and coat it like regular mesh tape i would for sure use it on all my flat and butt joints. make it self adhesive and you've got me.
 

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You guys will luv this stuff on butt joints, header butts ,window butts ,and the big roll for plaster repair or over pieced in window or door openings , Ive been using Nu-Wall with dura bond and reg mud for years and this stuff is just as good.
 

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i agree with fenez. if i could just roll the stuff on the walls and coat it like regular mesh tape i would for sure use it on all my flat and butt joints. make it self adhesive and you've got me.
I'd want the tape surface to be smooth enough to be able to box my butt seams without the blades hanging up on the tape like they would with mesh. Making a tape that is porous enough to load from the top, yet smooth enough to box would be challenging. If you can do that, and have it last better than paper tape, I'm in too.
 

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i get that you probably can't make the whole backside self adhesive. with the surface area of the tape it might not even come off the roll in one piece. maybe there could be one small strip of adhesive on each side of the crease. if you made the adhesive water soluble it would still become workable when mud was applied and you would still get a complete bond through the tape. it might have to be a second product that could not be used through the machines. just put a slightly different label on it on the inside of the roll to avoid confusion. i would only use it if it made hand taping easier. as it is right now it is no different than using paper tape except that it is more expensive and has a new learning curve and its own set of challenges. not interested in that if it does not make it faster. i don't care if it is easier to wipe down or if it is " possibly" stronger, paper is good enough for me. make it self adhesive and i will buy it by the box. i probably still would not use it on the angles but whatever. i just want something to make hand taping easier for those small jobs. i
 

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i get that you probably can't make the whole backside self adhesive. with the surface area of the tape it might not even come off the roll in one piece. maybe there could be one small strip of adhesive on each side of the crease. if you made the adhesive water soluble it would still become workable when mud was applied and you would still get a complete bond through the tape. it might have to be a second product that could not be used through the machines. just put a slightly different label on it on the inside of the roll to avoid confusion. i would only use it if it made hand taping easier. as it is right now it is no different than using paper tape except that it is more expensive and has a new learning curve and its own set of challenges. not interested in that if it does not make it faster. i don't care if it is easier to wipe down or if it is " possibly" stronger, paper is good enough for me. make it self adhesive and i will buy it by the box. i probably still would not use it on the angles but whatever. i just want something to make hand taping easier for those small jobs. i
I can see your point. I think butts and tapers could be a world faster if a tape that stood up as well as paper could be rolled over then seam, and then just coated over with a flat box. That'd be faster than taping and wiping with a bazooka, then filling just the same after that.
 

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I can see your point. I think butts and tapers could be a world faster if a tape that stood up as well as paper could be rolled over then seam, and then just coated over with a flat box. That'd be faster than taping and wiping with a bazooka, then filling just the same after that.

Sounds like a good idea, but the self adhesive products have not got a good record for holding up as well as tape mudded on, there has been a few tryed it but dont remember the names, But glues and materials have surged ahead in the last few years so maybe it could work?? i woudnt be the first try it though, Bazooka and wiping down can be very fast, only a day or two tape up a large house, so if another product took 20% off that time its not really much of a saving is it. But i guess you wouldnt have to buy and maintain a bazooka then would you.
 

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You guys should ask for a free sample,try it ,you will realize its idea of mud behind and then on top makes it become one thing like paper,but its thinner really just try some It wont replace bazooka TAPING WITH PAPER THO THATS JUST MY PERSONAL OPINION.
 

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Ok I just got home after using fibafuse all day today. I am completely convinced that this product with self adhesive would be the best thing ever to happen to drywall and here is why.... unlike mesh tape it doesn't crack with conventional mud, the mud seems to dry much faster with this tape because it is porous which allows the compound to dry quicker.
I have done jobs with mesh tape and hot mud which worked fine but was a big pia because of all the mixing but the one thing that was great was how fast I could hang the flats and butts, If this tape could be used the same way but with conventional compound it would be the fastest way to tape a job... not by a little either
 

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Ok so I don't do a lot of drywall, I'm mainly a stucco plasterer. I had to join to say that Fibafuse has to be the best for hand taping inside corners for newbies. The mud pushes right thru the tape so you don't get bubbles.

By the same token, If you're not real careful with your knife you can rip right through the inside seam.

If I wanted to improve FibaFuse I'd make it stronger for sure. Never thought of self-adhesive before But I'd love it. If you could find a way to get it to hold it's shape when you crease it that would be great too. It seems that the way you make the crease is to weaken the fibers in the center. Terrible idea IMO, because you need the extra strengh in the corner.

Now when am I gonna get the free samples I asked for ;)
 

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just an observation

why is everyone allways looking for an easier way to tape than using paper? Strong, straight and quick if done correctley. I personally cant seem to imagine a quicker way to tape board properly than a bazooka/blaster used in competant hands. The only thing I reckon that would be close would be self adhesive paper tape, but even then I doubt it would offer substantial time savings.I recall a product that had to be soeked in water before application, but that seems to have gone by the way-side.If any hand finishers out there are having trouble getting a great paper-tape finish, try this....Apply mud with 6' blade/knife. Make sure taper/recess is filled evenly. String tape (paper) along joint with 6' blade. Then rub tape over with a straight bevel 3" blade to embed deeply into the recess. I used to go along tape from either end once each way to be sure the tape was completly under the recess. When squeezed out to a satisfactory level, fill taper /recess with 8" blade. This technique gave me 1000 odd houses of trouble free finish...Just learn to use paper properly and there is no easier method or better finish. Mesh tape is for ametuers and handy men....but I may be wrong
 
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