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Has anybody had any experience with this Never-Miss on touch up or suggest something else that want bleed through paint. I would like to know the pro's and con's
Thanks
 

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I use Never/Miss all the time. It won't bleed through paint and the best part about it is, when the painter has already primed and you touch up with it, he doesn't need to prime over the mud. It seals it where two coats of satin paint will cover it. It is great stuff.
We use it in our skim coat mud. That way all of the joints are covered with color. Serves a couple purposes. You can see scratches better with it. You know if you oversand an area if you sand to the white. And it seals the mud and helps with joint flash. Almost eliminates it. You would be amazed how much better it works with a little color in the mud. They also have a product called Final Coat that is great for level 5 finish. Spray on with an airless. Two coats of paint and you are done. Works as a great primer under or over texture, too.
 

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I understand. I use it in all of the mud for the skim coat. (not just for touch up) Sure knocks down the joint flash. The painter can use any cheap primer and still no flash.
 

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I use it when i fix other tapers work. On primer it works really good and since the painter can see the patch work he can sand the patches ;)
You have painters that will sand patches:blink::blink:

Where to Hell do you live, I'm moving there:thumbsup:
 

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I understand. I use it in all of the mud for the skim coat. (not just for touch up) Sure knocks down the joint flash. The painter can use any cheap primer and still no flash.
I don't see how:blink:

Lets say were talking final coat on screws for example, some call the finale coat on screws a sanding coat. After you sand, how much of that finale coat is left behind ????????

Flashing is from 2 different surface types, one smooth, one rough. So I don't get it:blink:
 

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I don't see how:blink:

Lets say were talking final coat on screws for example, some call the finale coat on screws a sanding coat. After you sand, how much of that finale coat is left behind ????????

Flashing is from 2 different surface types, one smooth, one rough. So I don't get it:blink:
There is enough left in the mud to seal it so it won't flash. I have seen the mud show a different sheen through orange peel. (regular mud) Especially if the painter used a cheap primer. This stops that. Unless you sand all of the color off down to the other coat. Then you might have sanded too far. :)
 

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We are talking two different types of flashing. One is the texture difference. And I agree with you. Never/Miss won't help that type. But it sure does on the flashing sheen through the primer and paint. And that type will flash even through knockdown. This being my experience, not just my opinion. Since N/M is a sort of acrylic, it seals the mud and is a touch harder to sand, but seals it and stops the porosity difference. But for smooth wall, you need to coat the whole wall to stop the texture difference between the paper and mud. And N/M has a product called Final Coat that is added to the mud and makes a very nice finish. In my opinion...;)
 

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Speaking of flashing here's a question for Mr painter, is there a texture difference between hard mud and soft mud? say if soft mud was used to patch repair over hard mud, because it would blend in together better and not get the onion skin effect when sanded.
I presume sealing and sanding the sealer would even out any texture difference.
 

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We are talking two different types of flashing. One is the texture difference. And I agree with you. Never/Miss won't help that type. But it sure does on the flashing sheen through the primer and paint. And that type will flash even through knockdown. This being my experience, not just my opinion. Since N/M is a sort of acrylic, it seals the mud and is a touch harder to sand, but seals it and stops the porosity difference. But for smooth wall, you need to coat the whole wall to stop the texture difference between the paper and mud. And N/M has a product called Final Coat that is added to the mud and makes a very nice finish. In my opinion...;)
I half to admit , this never miss product gets me confused on it's exact function:yes:

The only time I tint mud, is to get any touch ups I may have when sponge sanding on check out. Even then, it's a small scoop full of mud I tint blue with chalk, and Most of my touch ups involve nicks and dings that are not even in my field of work. It just makes them visible and reminds you where to go back and sponge them. That's what can drive me nuts with this trade. You could build a straighten something out with 2 tons of mud, put a lot of time and effort into something, that most times some other trade screwed up. Then some stupid painter says you suck because there's a ding in it. They tend to forget our first goal is to HIDE THE JOINT, not make things 100% blemish free for them, we try to but:furious:............... sorry, went off on a rant there:whistling2:

But from what I have read with this never miss. Seems like a lot of guys are using it to make sure they don't miss coating something, or sanding something, which makes me go like this:blink:. How can you miss doing something. My advice would be to quit smoking pot, then they may not be so forgetful.

I could see using the stuff to train newbs, but even then. Explaining to a GC or HO your tinting your mud b/c your training a newb, would scare the crap out of them. Some things are best left un said.

So I don't really understand the need, or the purpose for this product. I try to look at things with a open mind. After reading a lot about fiberfuse for example, I'm willing to give it a try. Plus there were other products I was willing to try, like Vario, mud max, mudset beads and certain tools. But this product ?????? I don't think so, just don't see the need for it, at least with the system I use when taping
 

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Your painters must use a primer good enough to stop the sheen difference between the mud and the paper or you would see the benefit of this product. That part far out weighs the color advantage. I would prefer just white (I get tired of people asking about the color). I can look around the house and know if I have or haven't hit this or that joint or bead. Don't need it color coded. But when it stops the joint flash, well I'll spend money to do that.
 

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Your painters must use a primer good enough to stop the sheen difference between the mud and the paper or you would see the benefit of this product. That part far out weighs the color advantage. I would prefer just white (I get tired of people asking about the color). I can look around the house and know if I have or haven't hit this or that joint or bead. Don't need it color coded. But when it stops the joint flash, well I'll spend money to do that.
That's where I would half to see a wall with one side done with regular mud, and the other with never miss. Just a simple 10 foot long wall. Then paint it. Draw a line dead down the middle, then see if anyone can notice a difference from either side. If it's true what you can say it can do, then I would be like you, I would want the product to come in white:yes:

Thanks Tim:thumbsup: But what would Myron Ferguson think:D

 

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Core Solution

:yes::yes:
What is Never-Miss Drywall Coloring Gel?

Never-Miss is a breakthrough technology for tinting drywall joint compound and drywall mud for the purpose of providing extreme visibility during final touch up work, sanding, and Level 4 / Level 5 finishing. The Never-Miss formula has a priming effect that helps to eliminate paint flashing and joint shadowing, thus improving the quality of the job and helping the work to be done right the first time. This unique joint compound additive helps drywall finishers consistently achieve high-end smooth wall finishes with complete accuracy while saving time and money. Unlike food coloring, carpenters chalk, or other inferior alternatives, Never-Miss uses a specific non-toxic formula for drywall joint compound that is proven to not bleed through the paint or impregnate the gypsum board in anyway.


Easy to see - Ideal for touch-ups and tracking the progress of drywall finishing

Mix in a mud pan for small touch ups, or in a 5 gallon bucket of mud for large jobs

Acts as a Primer and reduces flashing and shadowing of joints

Helps to achieve a high-end smooth wall finish: Level 4, Level 5

Applies as high-visibility color – Sands to a pale color

Does not bleed through paint or impregnate into the gypsum board

Blends easier and works better than other tinting alternatives (i.e. chalk, paint, die, etc.)


Never-Miss Coloring Gel Solves Drywall Finishing Problems

As all drywall finishers know “touch up and tracking” is both a tedious and time consuming part of drywall finishing. It’s costly, labor intensive and time consuming. Not to mention, at this phase in the process the work is being evaluated and your performance and quality is under inspection (whether by you, or the builder.) Make sure your finish stands up to the test and expedite the touch-up process. Use Never-Miss, and never miss a spot again.

Using Never-Miss Coloring Gel at the start leads to better quality control at the finish, and increased productivity every step of the way. When adding Never-Miss Coloring Gel to your joint compound you will be able to keep track of every last spot on the wall – easily see where you have worked and what areas still need attention. Being able to see the touch up spots quickly and easily saves the drywall finisher time, increases quality, and leads to many hours saved in labor. The benefits lead to bottom-line savings for the contractor, by speeding up the finishing time, decrease labor expense, and increase quality.


Smooth Wall just got easier

A large majority of the homes and buildings today require a smooth finish, or what is known as a Level 4 or Level 5 finish. Never-Miss helps you achieve a high-end, smooth finish by helping to eliminate flashing or shadowing of your joints. Mixing Never-Miss into your joint compound for the “skim coat or final coat” phases helps insure a flash and shadow free job by helping to eliminate sanding through the top coat and keeping an “even” coat across all panels. Contractors can expect to save much time, energy, and expensive when using Never-Miss to achieve a high-end, smooth finish.

Eliminate “White Out” Syndrome

Trying to find touch up areas in the final sanding phases can be very difficult, especially when everything looks white and seems to blend in. Locating the white areas of the wall that still need to be touched up can be challenging when you are battling with the white of the compound, the white of the lightning, and white of areas that have already been sanding. Eliminate the “White Out” syndrome and find touch-up spots quickly and easily with Never-Miss. Different members of your finishing crew will be able to work in harmony, rather than going over each other work. Tracking your works becomes much easier whether working by yourself or with a large crew on a big project.

How to use Never-Miss

For large jobs:

Mix thoroughly 1.5 oz of Never-Miss Color Gel (half of our 3 oz bottle) to one 5 gallon bucket of joint compound. Mix together well. Apply joint compound to finish coats and skim coats as normal. As the joint compound is drying, Never-Miss Color Gel dries and rises to the surface of the joint compound. This allows for the color to be sanded away with ease, leaving your un-sanded areas more visible. Color will not bleed through paint, and Never-Miss Color Gel actually acts as a primer to the finished joints, helping to eliminate flashing and shadowing.

For small jobs:

Mix thoroughly 3 to 4 drops of Never-Miss Color Gel to one Mud Pan full of joint compound. Mix together well with Taping Knife. Apply joint compound to finish coats and skim coats as normal. As the joint compound is drying, Never-Miss Color Gel dries and rises to the surface of the joint compound. This allows for the color to be sanded away with ease, leaving your un-sanded areas more visible. Color will not bleed through paint, and Never-Miss Color Gel actually acts as a primer to the finished joints, helping to eliminate flashing and shadowing. After sanding, the color is complely pail and is easily covered with paint.
Use to patch painted walls too. No need for priming.
:thumbup:
 
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