[rhardman]

Thanks A+

Since you and a couple of other testers have mentioned this "tiny clump" problem I've designed a new blade which should take care of the issue. A new member of the site is going to be trying it out when he does a head to head comparison between our paddle and the "4 post" paddle that is currently out on the market.

After the evaluation, if you (and the other testers) would like one, let me know and I'll send you one of these new blades too. We're also going to provide a shorter blade to help with the higher rpm drills people are using.

I sent you an email last week and didn't receive a response. Please let me know if you did not receive it.

Rick
One tricky thing about designing a blade is to make sure it can be cleaned very easily. I tried smaller holes years ago but by the time you cleaned it, there wasn't much advantage over the old tech mixers (...just an fyi...I appreciate the suggestion).

 

[rhardman]

Variable speed drill helps.

This past weekend I skip trowelled a ceiling for my paraglider instructor as a birthday gift. The drill I had to use didn't say it's RPM but I was throwing the thin mud over the sides of the bucket. I had to slow things down by feathering the trigger which probably isn't very good for it.

A competitor has a Youtube video that shows a guy mixing mud directly in the USG box which is very impressive. Users say his drill also throws mud so if you watch the video pay attention to that drill.

Next time you get one (a drill) check out a variable speed, it may be something you want to consider.

Kiwiman wants us to do a video competition of our paddle and the 4 spoke. Right now we're waiting for a comparison test from another DrywallTalk subscriber listing results of his paddle to paddle review. It should be up to read very soon. I will be shipping out another paddle Wednesday for another comparison report.

The Youtube review of both paddles is a good idea but will probably take a couple of weeks before I have time to get to it. I don't want to just show some guy mixing mud but also list mixing times with various mud types and thicknesses, different powders (hot mud and thin texture) as well as the time required to clean each of them up.

Rick

 

[drywallnflorida]

The drill I have is the nonvariable kind and the only problem that I had with your paddle is when your mixing up texture it seems to throw it all over because of the thin material. I mixed up a couple of buckets of texture with my cordless ( with a variable triger) and no problems!!!!!

When I mixed up powder I didn't have any issues with lumps, I mixed it thick, wiped the sides of the bucket, let it sit for a min. and then remixed it adding a little water to get it to a good working consistancy.

 

[Sir Mixalot]

I'm loving mine still. Once you realize it's mixing power and adjust, It's the best thing for mixing on the market today. :thumbup:
I don't have any problems with throwing mud out of the bucket.
I do think a mini would be a great addition too.

 

[Taped Crusader]

Product comparison: Hardman prototype paddle -VS- Sheetrock 4 prong paddle

My test was run in four areas.
1. coating mud
2. boxing mud
3. texture
4. dry mix (EZ sand)

For all testing I used a DeWalt variable speed 1/2 inch drill.

For coating mud both paddles worked better than the standard "8" shaped one I was previously using. Neither one chews up the sides of the bucket. The Sheetrock padldle seems to make the mud a bit "creamier" and whips it up a hair faster.

For boxing mud, I like my mud to run on the loose side. Hardman's prototype out performed the standard mixer and I noticed less bucket vibration. The Sheetrock paddle made plenty of room to add water by putting a great deal of mud in my shoes.

I mixed texture in both a 5 gallon bucket and a 30 gallon tub. Mixing orange peel in the tub worked great with both paddles. Each of them mixed up a fine tub with no lumps. The Sheetrock paddle seems to have a bit more torque to it, hang on tight. I do not recommend the Sheetrock paddle for mixing a full 5 of texture. Even with a variable speed drill it throws it all around and didn't get the sides mixed up. While Hardman's prototype paddle works better than a standard mixer for a 5 gallon bucket of texture, caution must still be exercised when mixing or it will go over the sides.

For mixing powders, both paddles are of premium quality, as they mix quickly and thoroughly. The Sheetrock paddle cleans up a bit better than the standard mixer. I found myself having to spend a touch more time cleaning the neck and holes on the Hardman prototype.

 

[rhardman]

Appreciate the unbiased evaluation!

I sent Taped Crusader a PM then later thought it might be of value to others...
Rick

 

[Tim0282]

Hey Taped Crusader, I found that if you simply stomp the mixer in a bucket of water it cleans really easy. Amazing how good this works. Try it...
You have to have about three quarters of a bucket of water to work best.

 

[rhardman]

I spoke with Whitey97 today about the milled slots on the shaft of the paddle. Apparently some guys use the chuck a bit loose (new to me...) so they can pull it out of the drill faster. ****** says that after a while it can round the edges of the slots.

So per his suggestion the next round of paddles will be milled further down the shaft. This way if it does strip you can cut off the damaged piece and start again. Since we're using aluminum on the shaft and want to keep it round (so that it's easier to clean), this seems like the best solution. The slots are individually milled so it will take a lot more time to make it this way. We'll do our best not to increase the price. It may add $6.00 or $7.00 to the cost. We'll see how it goes.

Trust ****** to find a way to break the thing!

Rick

 

[silverstilts]

No disrespect intended but why not just use hex rod instead , and why use aluminum in the first place it is to soft , besides that I doubt that it would make much difference in weight ... I use a heavy duty paddle that guaranteed will take much more abuse and like most tapers I have notice will sometimes beat the paddle on the bucket when done mixing , not that I do but it is a bad habit that some have thereby bending the rod / shaft.... nothing worse than a bent shaft that wobbles , the one i use is very heavy duty and will not warp under such abuse ,and it will mix fast and smooth because of the dimensions of the paddle itself... smooth enough not to gouge plastic from either buckets or mixing hoppers ... Just my two cents worth and I have tried many a mixers in the last 35 years this one has been far the best and has lasted many a years , in fact I purchased 2 for when the first one wore out , well after 6 years I still haven't even use the backup yet... and yes it cleans easy. The paddle itself is cast aluminum with a steel hex rod.

 

[silverstilts]

Do you think this new paddle will stand the test of time ? honestly what kind of shape will it be in in say one year ? Do you think the nylon part will hold up or will it warp ? I suppose you could just replace it but at what cost will the replacement be ? I found that most replacements usually cost just about as a whole new tool . I will give it some time then perhaps I may buy one who knows ...I have bought so many tools in the past that claimed good reports but yet never really worked the way they should or are just garbage from the get go ....so I guess i will take the wait and see attitude and hope it works out for you . I still for the life of me don't see why it would take 6-7 extra $$ to have a little more milled on the shaft , I think you are getting the shaft at that price . Hex rod cleans just as fast .

 

[Whitey97]

It's amazing how yours and my opinions are similair silver, btw, you're right about bent shafts! anyways, the whole design/concept of the tool is for cleaning ease. Believe me, there is a difference between yours and this one. I have them both. Maybe I'll shoot up to your neck of the woods and show you

 

[rhardman]

Thanks Silver,

You need to remember that I've had a lot of these tools for a loooong time. I didn't want to introduce any of them until our bigger machines were ready. The mixing paddle has been used by 3 contractors for about 10 years or so. The way we form the UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) plastic isn't tricky but (I don't want to expose our secrets publicly) in over 10 years, it has never had any indication of deformation. If you end up with hard plaster or hot mud on it, you can hit it with a hammer and it will flex enough to shatter most of the mud off of it and it won't otherwise bend . We also went with the 1/2 inch thick material to ensure over kill in the design.

The milling is done out of house until we go to market. Right now, we're setting up our shop and I just bought a milling machine. In order to make a paddle, I have an experienced technician I will pay $20.00 an hour to operate the mill. To make the longer tracks on the shaft will take more time so I'm rough calculating that at $6- $7.00 in shop time. It may not run that high. When orders increase we will go to another method of production.

We could outsource everything to China. For the Fiberglass Taper (on the temporary website http://74.86.189.137/ ) we went with a handle mold from there (China). I paid a couple of thousand for it when local quotes were in excess of $20,000.00. We will do the plastics there (as we really have no choice) but everything else will be done here. The quality must be perfect.

We will offer the smaller mixing blades as accessories just as the testers recommended.

When we were testing the intial design of the paddle we tested the one you show in the picture and specifically targeted it's benefits.

In speed of mixing, weight and cleanability, we believe we have a better mouse trap.

We looked at the hex shaft vs. the anodized aluminum and found the round anodized shaft to be easier to clean. As far as how it will hold up after a year, that depends on the user. If it's thrown around in the back of a truck and the anodized finish is scraped off, it won't clean as easily.

You don't have to wait a year to try it out, just let me know and I'll be happy to send you one at no charge.*

You are right (of course) that steel is tougher and more durable than aluminum. But if a contractor is willing to use his tools with a bit more respect, we can (later) offer them other products that will increase their production by over 30%**. These will not be the back breaking manual tools that are currently on the market but rather "instruments" that are used (just a little bit) differently.

Maybe I should have made this clear earlier. We don't want to sell our products to everyone. We only want 20% of the market. I'll elaborate later on how we will ensure our users of more profits, how they will grow their business (in this economy) and how we will make more money with this approach.

This isn't just some company with new tools...it's more.

Rick
*This free offer is only for Mr. Silverstilts.
** This is why the 100% accuracy in our claims is so important. If you can believe our early claims with our small tools, then you can be that much more assured (of our promises) when our big products come out.

 

[Tim0282]

Silverstilts,
You haven't mixed mud until you have used this mixer. Hands down, it will mix circles around the mixer you have shown. I know for a fact. I have one just like the one you have pictured and I have used the one from Rick. Not even in the same ball park. A bit like a banjo compared to a bazooka!! Running angles with a six inch knife compared to the angle head. This thing mixes like no other. Adds less air to the mud and just plain mixes quicker and all of the mud in the bucket, It doesn't leave any mud unmixed in the bottom middle of the bucket. Try it, you'll like it. Worth the money.

 

[Taped Crusader]

I did a comparison on hardmans prototype and the sheetrock paddle a few months back. I've since had more time to mix with both, though i've been primarily using the prototype. Tim was right, If you stomp ricks paddle in the water like you're trying to put out a fire on a stack of money, it cleans it up very well. I was suprised when it cleaned even a thick batch of 90 out of the holes and the neck. I don't know what rick plans on selling these paddles for, but if you don't have one i'd recommend getting one. With as much mud as we go through, the little cost of the paddle that does the mixing is well worth the money.

 

[texturemaker]

Hey Rick how's things

It's good to see you have your website up & running. I been reading through your post's here (I hope you don't mind) & the post's of your tool users, sounds like your onto a winner there with your mixing device.

Speak to you soon & take care

 

[rhardman]

Hey Rick how's things

It's good to see you have your website up & running. I been reading through your post's here (I hope you don't mind) & the post's of your tool users, sounds like your onto a winner there with your mixing device.

Speak to you soon & take care

Please keep in touch.

Actually the website won't be up until June 1. You've probably seen the pending link address I posted a while back. It's sitting on our server waiting to go out.

We're working with a new distribution partner (do you know Alex?) and will soon be on the street in the UK and Europe. We will also be offering a new quick change coupler for our paddle.

I was talking to someone about your texture system yesterday.

Rick

 

[cazna]

No disrespect intended but why not just use hex rod instead , and why use aluminum in the first place it is to soft , besides that I doubt that it would make much difference in weight ... I use a heavy duty paddle that guaranteed will take much more abuse and like most tapers I have notice will sometimes beat the paddle on the bucket when done mixing , not that I do but it is a bad habit that some have thereby bending the rod / shaft.... nothing worse than a bent shaft that wobbles , the one i use is very heavy duty and will not warp under such abuse ,and it will mix fast and smooth because of the dimensions of the paddle itself... smooth enough not to gouge plastic from either buckets or mixing hoppers ... Just my two cents worth and I have tried many a mixers in the last 35 years this one has been far the best and has lasted many a years , in fact I purchased 2 for when the first one wore out , well after 6 years I still haven't even use the backup yet... and yes it cleans easy. The paddle itself is cast aluminum with a steel hex rod.

I have one of these mixers, Its ok but i find it bucket spins a lot, quite tough to hang on to and slow to mix water in, im prob not using it right, your 35 years out weighs me, Have you any tips on using it?? i just got a sheetrock to try out, i have a big mixing drill variable speed with the to handles on the side.

 

[rhardman]

2 different paddles I think...

I have one of these mixers, Its ok but i find it bucket spins a lot, quite tough to hang on to and slow to mix water in, im prob not using it right, your 35 years out weighs me, Have you any tips on using it?? i just got a sheetrock to try out, i have a big mixing drill variable speed with the to handles on the side.

I believe you are talking about the mixer in Silverstilts graphic above. The one they are talking about on this thread is a different kind of mixer. You can see it on the first page of this thread posted by "Sir Mixalot."

None have been sent to NZ though Kiwiman is first on the list there.

Rick

 

[cazna]

I believe you are talking about the mixer in Silverstilts graphic above. The one they are talking about on this thread is a different kind of mixer. You can see it on the first page of this thread posted by "Sir Mixalot."

None have been sent to NZ though Kiwiman is first on the list there.

Rick

Hi Rick
Your right, i was talking about silverstilts one in to pic, i quoted his comment and i thought his pic might have came through but it didnt, my comments have nothing do do with your new mixer.
Sorry to confuse.

 

[MeatBallDryWall]

I would like to try a paddle!!