easiest way is to use trim. attach a strip(jam extension) on the back of trim then mount it to wall. have to work around bad installs/designs sometimes.
How to Trim Around Vinyl Sliding Door
I have a 12' vinyl sliding door I'm not sure how to drywall around. In the first pic you can see that the door edge is nearly 1" from the studs and header (the cardboard on the stud is spacer). If that was the only issue I might finish the edge of the drywall with J-bead that rests on the door frame. In the second pic you can see that the stud/spacer sits proud of the vinyl frame, so I have a gap to fill in also. I don't think the J-bead option will work. I could rip wood to fill the gap and I guess tape it to the vinyl door frame and let the J-bead rest against it. Any other options?
![Wood Rectangle Shade Beige Material property]()
![Brown Wood Beige Hardwood Tints and shades]()
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Thanks. I was trying to avoid a jam extension, which I've used on other sliding doors in the house, because the rest of the doors in this room use 1.5" casing. If I used the same on this door I don't think it reaches enough of the stud to securely attach:
![Brown Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Hardwood]()
![Brown Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring]()
The other idea I had was to run the drywall over the door frame, fill the gap between the drywall and frame with a ripped piece of wood filler, and then cover the edge with paper corner bead ripped down to the depth of the drywall/filler:
![Wood Rectangle Beige Floor Flooring]()
![Wood Rectangle Window Beige Composite material]()
![Wood Rectangle Beige Flooring Composite material]()
Essentially I'm treating this like a narrow outside edge. I'm curious whether you think this would be strong enough. But I'll probably end up using wider casing with a jam extension.
The other idea I had was to run the drywall over the door frame, fill the gap between the drywall and frame with a ripped piece of wood filler, and then cover the edge with paper corner bead ripped down to the depth of the drywall/filler:
Essentially I'm treating this like a narrow outside edge. I'm curious whether you think this would be strong enough. But I'll probably end up using wider casing with a jam extension.
I'm using tear-away L bead extensively in the kitchen, mainly where the wall meets the shiplap vaulted ceiling. I don't think it helps in this situation though. If I mount it normally, I still have the gap between the back of the drywall and the door frame:
![Rectangle Wood Composite material Gas Beige]()
If flip it to butt up against the door frame I don't think there's enough contact with the drywall to mount it solidly (here in California I have to use staples; contact cement is banned because of high VOCs):
![Wood Rectangle Floor Material property Composite material]()
If flip it to butt up against the door frame I don't think there's enough contact with the drywall to mount it solidly (here in California I have to use staples; contact cement is banned because of high VOCs):
My phone battery died over the weekend. Finally getting around to taking some pics.
Full door:
![Building Window Wood Shade House]()
Right side corner:
![Window Paint Shade Rectangle Art]()
I cut the drywall even with the studs with a roto tool:
![Window Wood Fixture Rectangle Paint]()
I'll fill in the gap between the drywall and the door frame by ripping plywood or 2x4 even with the front of the wall and then installing casing over that. Similar to how I did another sliding door:
![Paint Wood Fixture Composite material Hardwood]()
I don't love the look, but I've lived with it for years.
Full door:
Right side corner:
I cut the drywall even with the studs with a roto tool:
I'll fill in the gap between the drywall and the door frame by ripping plywood or 2x4 even with the front of the wall and then installing casing over that. Similar to how I did another sliding door:
I don't love the look, but I've lived with it for years.
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