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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 12' vinyl sliding door I'm not sure how to drywall around. In the first pic you can see that the door edge is nearly 1" from the studs and header (the cardboard on the stud is spacer). If that was the only issue I might finish the edge of the drywall with J-bead that rests on the door frame. In the second pic you can see that the stud/spacer sits proud of the vinyl frame, so I have a gap to fill in also. I don't think the J-bead option will work. I could rip wood to fill the gap and I guess tape it to the vinyl door frame and let the J-bead rest against it. Any other options?
Wood Rectangle Shade Beige Material property
Brown Wood Beige Hardwood Tints and shades
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I was trying to avoid a jam extension, which I've used on other sliding doors in the house, because the rest of the doors in this room use 1.5" casing. If I used the same on this door I don't think it reaches enough of the stud to securely attach:
Brown Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Hardwood
Brown Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The other idea I had was to run the drywall over the door frame, fill the gap between the drywall and frame with a ripped piece of wood filler, and then cover the edge with paper corner bead ripped down to the depth of the drywall/filler:
Wood Rectangle Beige Floor Flooring
Wood Rectangle Window Beige Composite material
Wood Rectangle Beige Flooring Composite material


Essentially I'm treating this like a narrow outside edge. I'm curious whether you think this would be strong enough. But I'll probably end up using wider casing with a jam extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm using tear-away L bead extensively in the kitchen, mainly where the wall meets the shiplap vaulted ceiling. I don't think it helps in this situation though. If I mount it normally, I still have the gap between the back of the drywall and the door frame:

Rectangle Wood Composite material Gas Beige


If flip it to butt up against the door frame I don't think there's enough contact with the drywall to mount it solidly (here in California I have to use staples; contact cement is banned because of high VOCs):
Wood Rectangle Floor Material property Composite material
 

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Your tear away is applied wrong. The perforated edge should lie flat on wall. That’s the finished edge. Vinyl end should cover bone edge of sheetrock. They also make a 5/8 strip, that might help with gap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The tear-away is installed correctly in the first pic above, I think it's just hard to tell from the pic. I've installed enough incorrectly to know. LOL.

I got most of the drywall installed around the door this weekend. I'll post some pics tonight or tomorrow. I ended up trimming the drywall back to the framing with a Rotozip. I'll fill in the gap between the drywall edge and the door frame later with plywood or 2x4 ripped down to create a jam extension and covered with wide casing.

The doors are installed over stucco. Perhaps the stucco is thicker than normal or thicker than the door manufacturer intended, and that "pulled" the door frame away from the inside edge of the studs? I don't know.

The house was built in 1963 and the original walls are a kind of drywall/plaster hybrid: 3/8" drywall with key holes with 3/8-1/2" of plaster over the the drywall. The original walls are thicker than standard today, which made trimming out new doors in other parts of the house challenging. But that doesn't apply here since I ripped out the old drywall and installed new 1/2".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My phone battery died over the weekend. Finally getting around to taking some pics.

Full door:
Building Window Wood Shade House


Right side corner:
Window Paint Shade Rectangle Art


I cut the drywall even with the studs with a roto tool:
Window Wood Fixture Rectangle Paint


I'll fill in the gap between the drywall and the door frame by ripping plywood or 2x4 even with the front of the wall and then installing casing over that. Similar to how I did another sliding door:
Paint Wood Fixture Composite material Hardwood


I don't love the look, but I've lived with it for years.
 

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By the way, I have a pretty similar room at home. And for such a space, sliding closet doors would suit much better for you. Sliding doors consist of several panels that move along the top or bottom rail, usually the weight is on the bottom rail. Plus, you wouldn't have that kind of trouble installing or taking the door apart. After all, ordering such a door structure is much more practical than swing interior doors, they are universal. That is, you can choose any size of the design and even make an order of an unusual shape.
 
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