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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello.
Im wondering what people think of fibafuse.
It seems easier than paper and they say it has more strength but fools rush in.
It seems very strong if you try to pull it apart but if you hold it on both sides and move it up and down against the center crease its very easy to get movement along the fold.
A lot of cracks are caused by wallboard moving this way, ie flapping against each other very slightly.
I have a big house to start soon and was thinking of using fibafuse for the flats/butts and paper for the corners but since this is a new product im not so convinced, maybe i should stick with paper for now.
I will look very silly in a few years if it plays up and cracks?
So what do you guys/gals make of it then????
 

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I've never seen the stuff in action, so what I think is if it absorbs and can be apart of the compound used to adhere it self to the board it self then it might work as well as paper tape.

Why I say this is there are other product on the market that have some plastic and or vinyl in them that some but not all compound to stick to it with holding power to not let go.

Strait-flex is one of them that I have had some issues with unless you coat the whole surface to hold it down you can't treat it the same as no-coat.

So with this said absorbing into the product makes for a better mating of 2 different materials

I'd like to see the product in my hands before saying its worth using
 

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Corners - I used a Banjo and Midweight usg A/P, can am corner roller and flusher seemed to work best for me, much better than paper for rolling in, the Northstar angle head...not so good, it will work, but even on the 2nd coat the point gets a build up of fibre's, bear in mind I only tried the angle head on several corners so if I perservered with maybe adjusting blades or trying different techniques or maybe sanding 1st coat then it might be fine. My banjo with the homemade wheel (similar setup to a homax but bigger wheel) absolutely loves it, because of the light weight tape it's easier to use, the tape pulls thru with much less resistance and there's less tape drag on the board.
Taping corners by hand - I used a small corner trowel to apply the mud and to bed the tape in etc, it's not prone to wrinkles as much as paper, the only new learning curve is that the tape won't stay folded when it's dry, papertape you can crease it and place it, Fibafuse works best with mud already on it for corners.
Flats - Banjo and Tradeset 90 (Setting compound) - when wiping down/bedding the tape in, it's much quicker and easier than paper and it's not prone to stretching and wrinkling with the moisture also there's no worries of squeezing too much mud out from under the tape.
I tried over sanding a corner to see how the fibre's react and they were less of a problem, in fact I think painting would easily hide them.
One room I heat stressed before sanding (hope the owners not reading) with a 50kw diesel blower, no problems what so ever.
I didn't try it in a bazooka but I imagine it would be fine, with such a lightweight roll of tape I imagine it would be easier on the body.
The verdict....I like it:thumbup:, I'm going to keep using it, especially with the added strength value that comes with it, it may take some time but I can see it becoming an industry standard in New Zealand because of that. The price here is maybe double that of papertape but on an average $6000 job it might cost an extra $30 - $40, which isn't that bad if it saves having to return for a butt repair or something.
I say try it... You just might like it, it seems to be in no way related to meshtape but more of a variation of papertape, also...make sure to use your mud thin with it.;). How about you Cazna, have you done much more with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Wow Some body out there is showing some interest in this product, funny that its us behind the times kiwis, Come on yanks wakie wakie.

I have certianly havent tryed it out as much as you kiwiman, fantastic report :thumbsup:
I have used a few rolls in the flats just by hand so far and i do like it, its easier to apply than paper, much less pushing needed but i have over worked it and fluffed it up, also if it creases it wont slip along as paper will but just keep it pulled out when applying and this is not an issue.

I couldnt get any more yet so hit the house im on with paper, i see if you run it thru a bazooka the gooser needle needs removed though, it wont feed as paper does, I think? But i havent tryed it yet. I would say wiping down ceilings would be easier than paper too? Im not a big banjo user so havent tryed that either but sounds like its good.

Its nice on the butts, sits well, flatter than paper.

Im not so sure on using it for corners though, Maybe Mr fibafuse could produce a type for flats only and do away with the crease? I think he could make it thicker in the centre and this would increase strength even more which im sure we would all like.

A Corner type needs more fibers or some plastic tape in the centre to stop the angle heads from catching maybe?

I have some villaboard eves to do as well and that is paper tape but i think fibafuse would be better, But Mr fibafuse said the cement may break down the fibers and would get back to me, No reply on that yet so paper it is then.

So have you only sent fibafuse to NZ Mr Fibafuse??? No body else seems to have much to say, Shame, i think your onto a winner here.
 

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i see if you run it thru a bazooka the gooser needle needs removed though, it wont feed as paper does, I think? But i havent tryed it yet.
I've tried a dry run with it in the bazooka and the gooser works fine, might be a different story with mud in it maybe? I'll have to wait and see. Something else I noticed if you try and pull papertape apart with your fingers it will eventually suddenly seperate, but do the same with fibafuse and it doesn't completely seperate... you can pull it apart 10mm and there's still fibres joining it.
 

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Out of curiosity, what is driving your interest in switching to a tape that is more expensive, and a little harder to embed at the ends of runs? Is it the extra adhesion that appeals? Or maybe that it might stand up to water damage better?

I use it when I'm taping with setting compound because I like the idea of the mud getting into the weave and hardening up, making for a better bond than I'd get with paper (there's less glue in setting compound). I can't see myself switching over to Fibafuse for taping a whole house though. I'm faster with paper. Well, it's my bazooka that's faster with paper, but I wouldn't use my banjo on a whole house. It might be nice for home owners worried about bubbles, or for training new staff, so they can see where their mistakes are. I went to bid a texture job on walls that the owner had taped himself. Wish he'd used something like fibafuse so he could see where the dry spots were (and presumably would have fixed them). So many bubbles in his paper tape. Talked my way out of bidding that job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Talked my way out of bidding that job.[/quote]

Amen. We all been there dude and its a great skill to have.

I dont find it harder to tape at the ends with???
Maybe it just a new product thats my interest, But something stronger, faster, lighter and sits flatter would have to be a plus for us all.
And im not bothered about the cost, its minimal, paper tape is cheap, it a non issue for me if fibefuse costs double, that can be easily made up on speed if it works out faster.
I know what you mean about home owners taping, I have had a few do that then call me for the last coat, they think they saving money???
I talked, walked, and ran accross the fires of hell to get away from those jobs, They dont want to pay away so better off on someone elses job.
 

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Out of curiosity, what is driving your interest in switching to a tape that is more expensive, and a little harder to embed at the ends of runs? Is it the extra adhesion that appeals? Or maybe that it might stand up to water damage better?
I think most of all it would be peace of mind knowing I haven't scrooged on the quality/durability of the materials used for the price's I charge, I think it will be good to tell a home owner that I'm using a product that is 70% more resistant to cracking than anything else available...bear in mind anything will crack given the right circumstances, I find it a lot easier and quicker bedding the tape in by hand but maybe thats just me, and yes the resistance to moisture damage is a good feature too, no papercuts either:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have you seen nicks latest mailer? $5.50 for paper tape and $8.95 for the fibafuse. Not Bad Nick.
 

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Update

I tried it for real this time with a bazooka and it runs through it just fine, I got one tape jam but that was my fault for not stopping fully before cutting. The more I use this stuff and get to know it, the more I like it, I have started to notice some minor irritation where the skins a bit soft (and no...I don't mean down there) but doesn't bother me too much.
 

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Now I've had more time to play with the corners I've found rolling in and then using the 2.5" corner flusher seems to be the way for bedding the tape in, and now I've got my angle heads adjusted properly and the tip dulled off a bit more that they are fine for the next coat, the only thing that worries me is that even after the muds bone dry it is easy to cut into the corner with a broadknife where there has been a slight gap before taping...like there's no mud at all behind it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thats were paper is better for the corners? I have now used a little on some butts and patches, its great and sits really flat, im thinking i might get brave and use it for the flats on my next house, and paper for the corners.
 

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on first use i am not liking this product. i was hoping to use it the same way i use mesh tape. i like to use mesh for short tapes and headers and for strengthening blowouts. i like to just lay the stuff on before i start prefilling and hit it at the same time with a thick mixed hot mud. i discovered fibafuse does not work well with thick mud(at least not for me). i'm probably going to use the stuff up on this job for the butts and flats just to get rid of it. i feel like their is too much of a learning curve with this stuff for me to change what already is working well for me. maybe i'll change my tune after i try it with some thinner mud tomorrow.
 

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second try i used it with thin taping mud. sooooooo much better. i like it. nice flats and butt joints. i did find it harder to embed at the end of joints. it does not stand up to the same abuse paper will. but just looking at it the next day and seeing for myself how it fuses the joint when dry i can't see it cracking. even if a crack did form i think the irregular pattern of strands would obscure a crack from showing. i will definitely be using more of this product.
 

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I haven't tried it either, and I don't like either.

Look kids, we are drywallers, learn how to use the drywall products.

If you learn how to use paper tape, you will find there is no reason to go chaseing rabbits !!
 

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I haven't tried it either, and I don't like either.

Look kids, we are drywallers, learn how to use the drywall products.

If you learn how to use paper tape, you will find there is no reason to go chaseing rabbits !!
easy now Captain. Paper doesn't stand up to water damage well. If a tape accommodates mechanical bonding to the mud better than paper tape, or is stronger than paper, I'm at least interested. Why shouldn't you be?
 

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easy now Captain. Paper doesn't stand up to water damage well. If a tape accommodates mechanical bonding to the mud better than paper tape, or is stronger than paper, I'm at least interested. Why shouldn't you be?
Probbly cause I'm an old grouchy guy.

However, if water damage is the problem,,, this stuff won't help either (if your using drywall mud).

The reason I stated that way is this,,

1) mesh users like mesh cause they don't know how to handle paper
2) Fiber-fuse is an atttempt to get paper tape users to try a mesh-like alternative.
3)mesh and fibe-fuse are an attempt to help you skip a step,,, and wheather you believe in the tooth fairy or not,,, you cannot skip a step in the drywall process and come out with an acceptable product.

I know the "belivers" will not agree, but thats okay too.
Grandma had a saying "don't pee down my back and tell me its raining"
 
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