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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I'm going to totally lose my mind if i don't figure out why this is happening. After skimming out my butts nearly all of the ones on exterior walls had the tapes crease about 10 minutes after being skimmed, just a hair line crease right over the joint, its happened a couple times before but never to this extent.
I'm using fibafuse and coating once down the middle with a 7" then splitting with a 10" and its not until I do a tight skim by hand that the crease decides to show up. On friday I got to skimming a few butts and they creased so on saturday I PC sanded a couple down re-taped them and got a coat on by hand once they were dry, skim them today and same result. I've got lots of heat and I am running a dehumidifier so drying isn't a problem and like I said its only happening on exterior walls and ceilings, interior walls and 1st floor ceilings are perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LOOSE paper on the factory butt.. It's like taping a blister.??????
Yeah like a hairline blister
I was leaning towards that idea but didn't want it to be true:(
Now that I think of it the house was stocked with about half and half ultralight and std board as the suppliers are in the middle of switching to all ultralight 1/2" here and I have noticed the paper on the ultralight seems different.
Please tell me I don't have to go back and V all these butts, pre fill them and do them all over again. Do you think a good thick coat will fix them? I had planned on sanding tomorrow until this happened:furious:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What's the outside temp? What's the inside temp?
when I ran the tapes about 5ºC (40ºF) today it was about 20ºC (70ºF) and I like to keep it about 20-23ºC inside.

And I've never had to V butts before, sucks if I have to start now
 

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when I ran the tapes about 5ºC (40ºF) today it was about 20ºC (70ºF) and I like to keep it about 20-23ºC inside.

And I've never had to V butts before, sucks if I have to start now
You could use a heavy coat of set mud, it will lock a blister down, but you'd probably be better off to v-cut them.

Here's a ghetto solution that we used to use when butts blistered on sand/texture day: Take the hammer end of your six and reef on the blister all the way down the length. Then prime it with a SEALER. You can then coat it with set mud, and tight skim with regular mud. Works pretty well, although if you're going smooth probably won't fly. However, if your texture is even moderately heavy, you can probably get by with just the set-mud coat.

Hope this helps....
 

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Wannabe Woodworker
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try using a" shellac paint "spray can. Spray the center of butt 2 or 3 inches from end to end,let dry. Use a quickset to coat blister once shellac or good sealer prime has dried ( Linesaver even works) lite sand or scrape, coat with a tpcoat. Its worth a shot, it works most times unless something is just totally wrong
 
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drywall slave
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You could use a heavy coat of set mud, it will lock a blister down, but you'd probably be better off to v-cut them.

Here's a ghetto solution that we used to use when butts blistered on sand/texture day: Take the hammer end of your six and reef on the blister all the way down the length. Then prime it with a SEALER. You can then coat it with set mud, and tight skim with regular mud. Works pretty well, although if you're going smooth probably won't fly. However, if your texture is even moderately heavy, you can probably get by with just the set-mud coat.

Hope this helps....
push the blister in..I am guilty of that ghetto move...:yes:
 

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Very rarely will I get blisters like that in my butt joints, but from time to time if we do get a bad one I just do like Slim said, push it in with the back end of my knife, follow the whole seam, then coat it with a setting compound, then skim it.
 

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try using a" shellac paint "spray can. Spray the center of butt 2 or 3 inches from end to end,let dry. Use a quickset to coat blister once shellac or good sealer prime has dried ( Linesaver even works) lite sand or scrape, coat with a tpcoat. Its worth a shot, it works most times unless something is just totally wrong
Yeah, we just had a can of Kils, but shellac would be good too. Anything to keep moisture out and make it hard:thumbsup:
 

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Yeah, we just had a can of Kils, but shellac would be good too. Anything to keep moisture out and make it hard:thumbsup:
After I posted I noticed you beat me to it:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I like the idea of seali g it up with kills thing is its all painted ceilings and long lit walls so they have to be perfect. Contractor is is a really good guy and would be fine with a couple days if it's the right way to fix it.
 

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I had that happen to me with Fibafuse once, it was on horizontal tapered joins, it wasn't the whole join but just 3ft sections in several rooms, and there appeared to be no reason for it, the only thing I could think of was that maybe something had been spilt on it while stacked and it has reacted with the mud.....dunno, all I know is I hadn't done anything different than before and it has never done it again.
I scraped the affected areas back with a tungsten scraper and re-taped it.
 

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I've been kinda busy lately, sorry for not keeping up with all the topics.. I have only used fibafuse once. on patch work. so I can;t say if it is the tape' I am thinking it couyld be the sheetrock. anyway I am tired. Take Care everyone. and don't let the mud goobers bite ya in your sleep.
 
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