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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had my first day with this tool. Some parts good, some bad. The main problem was after I cut the tape and then go to advance the tape forward there would be no mud on the tape. Any advise?
 

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That is normal
When doing flats you really don't need mud right away, but for angles.......
you got to turn the ratchet gear by hand, it's a 2 hand operation. you slowly advance the tape via the cutter, then with the other turn the ratchet ( the rectangle thingy on the big gear wheel with the chain on it)
the other way is to run the tube a inch or 2 on the wall, Thats advance methods though
 

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watch at the 6 or 7 second mark of this vid, it's how you advance the mud on the wall, he's pushing up on the cutter as he runs the tube on the wall a second or two.

you can pick up some things on youtube:thumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks I appreciate that! I'll assume that when I was running ceiling flats and I had mud rain drops hitting my shoulder that I had the mud to thin?? Also should the drive wheels remain mud free?
 

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Thanks I appreciate that! I'll assume that when I was running ceiling flats and I had mud rain drops hitting my shoulder that I had the mud to thin?? Also should the drive wheels remain mud free?
only run your tube on one side of the wheel when doing ceilings, or hold it at a 15 to 20 degree angle. Keep the finger extended when doing it. dry feed the tape when doing flats, just push forward on the cutter and go, you don't need mud on the end of the tape when doing flats. when you wipe your tape, you will pull mud under the flat tape.

When you master the bazooka, you will be able to wear a tux and not get dirty. it's ok for things to get a bit dirty, after 10 houses you will be doing fine. just use a good oil before you use it. I use motor, but use what you want. better to use something than nothing
 

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to add to last post
in GENERAL !!!!! flat mud should be about 6 or 7 coffee cups (large star bucks or timmy's) angles may need more than that.
it depends on type of mud you use, angle heads your using etc......
try bazooka in search function on DWT here, and sit back and read
 

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I would just about buy a DM taper for the EZ-Access lid alone, I wonder if that type of lid would be adaptable to, or fit other brands.
If you wait a month or two we are coming out with an quick release cap that will be on our new Tapers, it will also be compatible with other brands old and new.
 

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If you wait a month or two we are coming out with an quick release cap that will be on our new Tapers, it will also be compatible with other brands old and new.
Excellent!!! Cazna has been helping repair my bazooka and get me into actually using it, one thing I noticed is no matter how clean I think I've got it there's still mud there once you take the lid off, a quick release lid would make a huge difference for cleaning.
 

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Excellent!!! Cazna has been helping repair my bazooka and get me into actually using it, one thing I noticed is no matter how clean I think I've got it there's still mud there once you take the lid off, a quick release lid would make a huge difference for cleaning.
i got a dwm king taper with the quick release lid love that taper and that lid:thumbsup:
 

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dont take this the wrong way guys...but you really advance and start your runs dry?...thats asking for trouble when it comes to angles, imo...if your doing flats, when you cut..push advance to where tape just comes out the lid..roll it over the tape you just cut "bump" then start it in your corner..standups I do same way at top of wall...then go to floor...ceilings i just run up the wall about 2" down when i finish the run...roll it up to ceiling then go to next flat

you shouldnt start your run dry..with practice, it really isn't that hard to get
 
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