Curing/drying time??

52021 Views 45 Replies 17 Participants Last post by endo_alley, 1 mo ago

cazna

Discussion Starter · Jul 26, 2010 (Edited)

Just wondering what people think about drying times of compounds, Ever noticed the tapered edge line showing through after a few months later under some down lights mounted to the wall??

I have a feeling it takes 30 days or so to fully cure and stop shrinking, depending on how thinned it is and type of mud of course.

What about the wall board, if its made a week before its hung and taped is this still curing?? Our board seems to be getting quite soft.

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2buckcanuck

· #21 · Jul 28, 2010

your right with the paint but it only swells the paper,not the bed rock underneath (rolling) now spraying is a different story .and if the dumb $%#^$&^ painter sprays without back rolling,dear lord what a mess,a good painter compliments our work,but lets not go there
you say your taping by a lake? for a experiment ,coat out a house one day (1st coat)then in a 10 x 10 (or so) bedroom set 2 or 3 five gallon buckets full of water,bet you the next day rest of your house is dry except that room with the buckets in it.
ever been on a large job site where mold strikes,want to see alot of drywall come down fast,drywall absorbs moister so fast.
but yes when use regular mud and not hotmud and go through the proper steps ,it does force the builder to control the environment if they ever want to see their job get done ,especially when it rains

cazna

Discussion Starter · #22 · Jul 28, 2010 (Edited)

Hi Rolly, great post, cheers and welcome.

We dont have that stuff here, its dulux, resene, wattyl and a few cheap spin offs, Dulux and Resene are the main brands.

The type of house you described is what i have just done.

So your saying to pre fill first, thats interesting, so first day i could run a 7 flatbox set tight, first coat all screws, cut out and fill the butts, fill the corner gaps, then tape the next day? Do you have any crowning problems?? I guess not as you would not be doing it.

It is an extra coat but it wouldnt take long and in critical light would be worth it.
The first full tape coat is quite a thick coat, what about hot mud mixed in with all purpose for first coat, i have never try it but some other members do this.

Hot mud in the bigger gaps?? would that not fill better than all purpose??

And fibafuse would allow better and faster drying as said in the fibafuse tread currently running, thats a great point made there by Bedroc.

And i never considered the paint swelling it, See thats what this site is for, help and advice from willing freindly like minded people, Great stuff now a have a few ideas for the next job to make it even better, thats what its all about. Your the man Rolly, And 2Buck.

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2buckcanuck

· #23 · Jul 28, 2010

dont prefill corner gaps they could spit out on you down the road.when running around with bazooka ,say there is a gap in a corner 3 feet long 1/4" gap,run 3 foot tape over it ,and roll over it with roller,then tape over again,you double tape it,me and my worker call it a fixer tape (were creative) if the gap is 1/2' (fire hanger)fire 2 tapes on it,I call it chinese wall, your making mini sheet of drywall,and I think everyone saying dont use hot muds,
ask mudstar if he runs 7" first day just teasing lol ,I like to see that tape dry personally,some guys say if u prefill day before u can tape and coat next day,sh*t when i get all my tape on I'm going home,Im not hanging around to coat it,getting old
wish you could get better supplies where you live
ooooppps sorry ,this post for cazna ,&&^^%$ 1:30 off to bed

2buckcanuck

· #24 · Jul 28, 2010

read your post again cazna dont prefill with a 7" box ,like a tight skim,fill nails /screws in bevell and gaps,dont load bevell,some guys use 2" nail spotter to prefill tight if u have a good hanger in front of you,simple terms fill every black spot on walls,make walls pure white (not base of walls) gaps look dark too right ? if bevell is tight just single spot screws,bevell sits uneven level it ,but tight

cazna

Discussion Starter · #25 · Jul 28, 2010 (Edited)

Ok man, cheers, I was thinking a 7 box would way overfill it and leave to much on for the tape coat and cause a crowned joint, but the usg taping compound does shrink a lot and as you say could be my problem but if this compound was used first for a prefill then for taping that would dry better??

Or maybe my 5.5 drywallmaster flaxbox set tight which would actually crown into the bevel might just be the ticket, This little box would do that, fill all the screws and the centre and not fill up the bevel

Hey have you got one of these little boxes Rolly?? Might be the one for the prefill and make it fast?? Oh so much more to try and learn, im in heaven :thumbsup:

So you guys are only filling the screws and very centre of the joins first, let dry, then tape, makes sence for the cold weather you have, the lowest winter hits were i am is around 5degrees but thats only for a few weeks, average is around 8. other parts of NZ gets much lower. But we get nailed in the spring with rain rain rain.

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Rolly

· #26 · Jul 28, 2010

when I prefill the bevel I use a cheep $2 8" plastic knife
this allows me to "spot the bevel kinda like you would a screw (same motion)
this leave mud only in the nail holes and in the "v" where drywall meets drywall

for the big gaps in the angles I use con fill (miracle product)
if you cant get it there cazna, talk to your rep and harras him untill he finds a way to get it for you, this is also a synko/cgc product.

off too work now but will post more tonight as I think this thread is more about producing a lvl5 product under difficult circumstances wich includes drytime issues, I dont think your only problem is dry time, I think the trades(ie painters, framers) sorrounding you and your builder need to catch up to your standards caz.

TIP.... every once and a while do a 2(or 3) coat cookei cutter where every one involved expects you only to be a taper not a magition, It releaves stress and helps build your momentum back up after a big hard BEAR:yes:

Mudstar

· #27 · Jul 28, 2010

cazna said:
Mudstar you are a prick, you read my words and make bullsh!t up to suit your own fathead ego, feel good typing crap like that does it. Feel like the man do you!!!

I type a few lines that i like to learn things, most of us but obviously not you, never learn it all, products change, methods change, tools change, no one knows everything and i dont give a stuff how long you have been doing it, you dont know it all, You big hero. Easy to be brave over the internet isnt it, You use your imagination to figure out my reaction if you said that to my face.

So you have never made a mistake have you, or is your ego to big to admit it.

I use this site for some help and feedback to better myself and help others, why are you here, your not helpful at all. PS F#$K YOU.

Looking Forward to your bullsh!it reply now big man, It will be crap and unhelpful so Fu%k you again in advance.

That was advice and to try and help you out.

If you read your post your the one changing your methods all the time.

Trying to make something better then it is tells me that its not as good as you like it.

Take the words I say they way wish but I will never call you a name.

I hope you feeling better today.

mudslingr

· #28 · Jul 28, 2010 (Edited)

I have always prefilled large gaps and small dings with Sheetrock90. When I tape I like to use an 8" knife and make sure to fill the whole bevel after I wipe thus leaving your next coat (first) fairly thin. Just have to make sure that you embed the tape or else when it drys it will have a hump to it. Don't want that !
As far as the bevel shadow goes, those can be a real pisser ! I can usually tell after first coat is dry whether or not I will have this issue. That's when I just quit groaning and just turn it into a butt joint. Problem solved !
I do very many mudding jobs next to lakes and this problem usually happens to joints nearest the lake and on walls higher than 8'. No idea why other than moisture and possibly the wall contour from top to bottom from what I've seen anyway.
I have also noticed that 54" drywall is not too consistent in the size of it's bevels and that can throw you off.
This job is definitely a challenge and there's nothing wrong with trying to do a perfect job although we all know it never is. ( to us )

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wnybassman

· #29 · Jul 29, 2010

mudslingr said:
I have also noticed that 54" drywall is not too consistent in the size of it's bevels and that can throw you off.

There can be a big difference in bevels between 1/2" and 5/8" drywall too. Usually on 5/8" we put an extra coat on it because it is often a deeper bevel.

The painting process adds a ton of moisture into the home as well. I have seen it where it re-moistens the compound and re-shrinks when that dries. We had one house 10-12 years ago where the homeowner decided it was a good idea to spray a coat of primer and two coats of paint on the walls in one day, in April, after being terribly wet and humid all week. Argued with the homeowner about what was going on but we ended up skimming a bunch of stuff to make him happy. That was an extreme case, but it happens all the time to a lesser degree (and with inexperienced painters).

2buckcanuck

· #30 · Jul 29, 2010

wnybassman I feel your pain with your paint story,been there done that lol ,maybe some one should start a "stupid painters and paint stories ",if it has not been done yet ,I have some stories

:blink::furious:

And whats with all of us Canucks joining this site all of a sudden (me being one of them

)

cazna

Discussion Starter · #31 · Jul 29, 2010 (Edited)

You Canucks are awsome, great bunch i must say :thumbsup: You have some huge lakes too, prob bigger than my whole country

they must chop up with some big swells in a storm???

Cut an off cut of board and put the bevels together on a bench and put the 5.5 drywallmaster flatbox on it for a look and it fits the bevel perfect, and the blade does crown into it, not quite the full way but close, yes it will come back up when you mud the join a bit but it would mud it fast and maybe just a quick wipe out then you would have a good prefill, need to experiment but it could be ok, wouldnt that be faster and tidyer than a pan and knife?? Will find out all in good time.

And the paint wetting and shrinking the plaster is a new one on me?? maybe thats what happened it the joins??
I have been spraying the sealer on walls and ceilings, spraying ceilings twice (havent back rolled, they look great) HVLP spraying the doors/frames/windows then rolling 2 coats on the walls and it turns out great, most painters here and brush and roll, a few spray the sealer only. I didnt paint this job i have just done, to big.

Didnt mean to go off track, This is a drywall forum, tryed the painters forum but its a busy place and hard to get a word in and a bit hard to follow for me, its all different words and materials, Takin me a while to get what you call lids we call ceilings. Would like it if you started a painters horror storys and a who pre fills first thread 2Buck, They would be a couple of very interesting threads.

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2buckcanuck

· #32 · Jul 29, 2010

hey cazna it never snows here,we just tell the yanks it does,keeps them down south,Mexicans afraid of the stuff,See , if the Americans would learn from us,they should put piles of snow at their boarders and it would keep the Mexicans out
hear you roll paint after spray to mat the wall,spreads more even,stops it from soaking into walls ,and most just spray for primer.could go on but paint boring
not to confuse ,but for minimum prefill ,hit gaps and butts,instead of prefilling every bevel,you could go 10" -12" box then skim by hand.no hot muds ,let nature take its coarse and let things dry naturally .i"ll start those threads tomorrow after work ,tired !!

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moore

· #33 · May 17, 2011

Rolly said:
Casna, your work quality expectations and attitude sounds alot like mine.

I know we are not painting cars but I used to until an occupational deseas and I cant seem to help but try to put some automotive touch to my quality

all my pears constantly tell me that I go overboard with my quality but I cant help it, maybe I am in the wrong trade as well but I do get paid well for what I do (usually 10-20 cents more than the guy in the house next door.)

dont know if this will help but I prefill the day before tape, I prefill the entire flat with taping mud( a little looser than out of the box) using a 8" knife (platsic or VERY soft metal so as not to fill the beval). this will break up your drying time and allow you to leave less mud when taping, I find most tapers dont go this far but it is nessesary to have a nice sealed substrate to lay your tapes on to acheive (rediculous) quality.

I will post more later as I have to go to work now but 1 last thing, as you are in a small town like me it is easy to educate your builder......HEAT HEAT HEAT and get some FANS.

I used to own a big drywall company and the bottom line of my quote read something like this

CONTRACTOR IS RESPONSIBLE TO SUPPLY ADEQUATE HEAD TO MAINTAIN A MINIMUM OF 65 DEGREES UPON DELIVERY OF MATERIALS

YES!!!! THIS IS MY FAVORITE THREAD!!!:yes: read away please!

Jason

· #34 · May 18, 2011

Rolly said:
I used to own a big drywall company and the bottom line of my quote read something like this

CONTRACTOR IS RESPONSIBLE TO SUPPLY ADEQUATE HEAD

Not sure if I want to work for a guy who will sign that contract!

Not judging!

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cazna

Discussion Starter · #35 · May 18, 2011

Jason said:
Not sure if I want to work for a guy who will sign that contract!

Not judging!

Hahaha, Didnt see that one :thumbsup:

fenez

· #36 · May 18, 2011

one major reason for excessive shrinkage is over thinning the mud, (says it right on the can or box) unfortunately if you use auto tools you have no choice.

jmr

· #37 · May 19, 2011

2buckcanuck said:
hey cazna it never snows here,we just tell the yanks it does,keeps them down south,Mexicans afraid of the stuff,See , if the Americans would learn from us,they should put piles of snow at their boarders and it would keep the Mexicans out

we aint scared of snow in mn.. we let the southerners come up here to fish and then we migrate to your neck of the woods to slay walleye.

@cazna, and yes, their lakes get choppy as sh*t..

ChicagoHandyman

· #38 · Dec 30, 2014

great post, temperature is one of those things us newbies, might forget to consider when bidding a project. I think i will bring a few space heaters along on my next few project just in case.

Bazooka-Joe

· #39 · Dec 30, 2014 (Edited)

3

Caz a Cargo ship sails from Chicago to Thunder Bay for Canadian Grain, seen it meself.

They made a song you may heard of, The Wreck of the Ole Fitzgerald, Lake Superior swallowed it up,

Takes 500 years for that lake to change its water from all the streams that leak into it, first I went to superior I could not see the other side

forget surfer Joe went to Huntington beach one week where the annual surfer convention meet... the day i went to Superior it was windy, neva seen waves that big on a lake...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJLAyrTN5Fc

ice fish

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cazna

Discussion Starter · #40 · Dec 31, 2014

Great song that Joe, One of my favs.

And the bell tolls 29 times for the men of the Edmund Fitzgerald.

4 Years ago a coal mine here blew up Joe, Theres 29 men still in there. Its becoming a tomb.

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