[johnny_bravo00]

Hi all.

Signed up to this forum specifically to ask a question regarding my job and the reoccurring cracks on the butts. About me, Ive been doing commercial renovations for 15 years, now supervise a crew of 15-20. In my experience ive never seen cracks on so many sheets.

A little about my job, this is the first building that has continuous high ceilings throughout. Ranging from 12-14.5' high. Ive used heavy gauge (20 gauge) metal track and studs, with 3 rows of U-channel stiffener. Fastened top and bottom, both sides. Walls sheeted with 4x12x5/8" non type X, for rigidity.

I know my walls are not moving a mm. My taper continuously blames the walls saying that they are moving. When I know for a fact that they do not as no work is being done around them with the exception of the taping.

The cracks only appear on the butts of bottom 2 rows (sheets layed down and staggered) and never on the top rows.

Ive requested paper tape over the butts but don't think he has started using yet. Told me that hes using a S.R/mud mix for the first coat and straight mud for the next two coats. Mesh tape all around.

I need to get this sorted as now when he goes back over, it and we repaint. Recaracks. Builds out larger, re-prime, paint. recrack. This **** is putting me in the doghouse. New units with patches and the wall is built out so big on the butts. So much natural light as well. So unhappy..:furious:

PLEASE HELP!:yes:

Rant over....lol

 

[mudslingr]

Sounds like you built a solid wall.
Mesh on butts ? Really ! ?
Vibration ?
Is your bottom row touching the floor ? Floor heaving ?

 

[johnny_bravo00]

Its a large steel constructed building w/ polished concrete floors. We keep our sheets off of the floor about 1/2"-3/4", only due to the ease of installation. Between every beam the floor has a sag, but does not vibrate (under normal usage). No heaving.

I actually had to tell him to gauge out where the crack is before going over again. Would that not be normal practice? So the crack is filled and not just covered with another layer.

Is it possible that its just the issue of having mesh over the butts?

Thanks for the feedback

 

[gazman]

Sorry to be blunt but. Mesh is for hacks. Use butt boards ( made by TrimTex) and real tape, problem solved.

 

[johnny_bravo00]

Sorry to be blunt but. Mesh is for hacks. Use butt boards ( made by TrimTex) and real tape, problem solved.

I had to look into the "buttboard" system. New to me. Its Just a scab piece made out of OSB. I do see that its tapered inward which is nice. I would think to keep it put of a commercial application though. For 2 reasons for my job.
1, people are constantly leaning up against the walls in places like hallways, a scab piece is not as rigid as a stud.
2, cant use combustibles in my construction.

I agree about mesh. All of my previous tapers (actually only 2) over the past 10-12 years, refuse to use mesh. My new taper who was a union taper before working for us, hates mesh. For the obvious reason of mesh being quicker.

 

[mudslingr]

Try some of this for nasty butts. I made a video because I actually like the product.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BrG-vsKYA0

 

[BOBTHEFIXER]

Reason is MESH ..

solution is Paper..

 

[keke]

the problem is neither the movement in the building not the mesh..... which I use a lot and never had a call back.....the problem is the mud and the way you hang....fix this 2 and you'll never have a problem again

 

[johnny_bravo00]

the problem is neither the movement in the building not the mesh..... which I use a lot and never had a call back.....the problem is the mud and the way you hang....fix this 2 and you'll never have a problem again

Thanks keke, do you want to elaborate on "the way you hang". Are you Talking about hanging the drywall?

 

[Sir Mixalot]

Here's a tip to prevent the mud build up when you repair a butt joint> Remove the old tape> Re-secure drywall if needed> Now add new tape to the butt joint> When mudding the tape don't bust it out like a regular butt. keep the mud work mostly confined to the area where the failing tape was removed until the final skim coat. :thumbsup:

 

[johnny_bravo00]

Thanks for all the help guys. Ill print this thread off and kindly slip it into his paycheck envelope. lol,

 

[Atomicdrywall]

The only time I have seen cracks on butt joints is when the area is super heated with bin heaters..

Simple though if it's a problem just get the taper to put paper tape on the butt joints, he can still mesh everywhere else.

Won't cost much time.

Peace of mind is priceless though!

 

[endo_alley]

Mesh tape will always crack eventually on a butt joint. It you really must use mesh. double tape with two layers of mesh. It goes without saying, always cut out and prefill butt joints with setting compound prior to taping.

 

[moore]

That's weird it's just the butts on the bottom row. :blink:

 

[Atomicdrywall]

Mesh tape will always crack eventually on a butt joint. It you really must use mesh. double tape with two layers of mesh. It goes without saying, always cut out and prefill butt joints with setting compound prior to taping.

How long are we waiting? My house is mesh and its 20 years old no cracking on butts.

Ill conceived notion Imo.

 

[keke]

Thanks keke, do you want to elaborate on "the way you hang". Are you Talking about hanging the drywall?

first - BACK BLOCKING
second - avoid to put the butt joint in sensitive areas

as you can see from this pic taken in my house, even the paper tape cracks if the butt joint is in a wrong spot

Sorry no recent pic, I do framing at the moment

 

[gazman]

Those backblocks dont look up to spec Keke. Check out page 31 of the CSR residential guide.

http://www.gyprock.com.au/Documents/GYPROCK-547-Residential_Installation_Guide-201111.pdf

 

[keke]

Those backblocks dont look up to spec Keke. Check out page 31 of the CSR residential guide.

http://www.gyprock.com.au/Documents/GYPROCK-547-Residential_Installation_Guide-201111.pdf

it's too messy....that job was done long ago and I haven't had a call back.....and every day (when requested in the specs) I use the glue... cleaner than everything :thumbup: and still no cracks

 

[Aussiecontractor]

My apprentice says they use glue at TAFE for back blocking...
I use drywall base or cornice cement and trowel it on. Yes it's tricky not to drop mud everywhere when ya putting the sheets up but can be done all to do with mud consistency and application


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[gazman]

If access permits back blocking with bb cement in the roof space is the best method. Two of us would get up, the little bloke would do the crawling and I would butter up the blocks and throw them too him. I reckon it is quicker too, you don't break your rhythm when hanging.