Drywall Talk - Professional Drywall and Finishing Contractors Forum banner
1 - 20 of 51 Posts

·
Part-timer
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've found a couple of threads on angle head combos on here but they're buried pretty far back, maybe some of you guys have switched up your programs since then.

I'm about to buy a full set of tools. The only auto tool I have right now is a 3" angle head (see avatar :D). After I get my set I want to be running two different size angle heads but I'm not sure what's going to work out better. Do I get a 2 1/2" head and run it when I'm taping then follow with the 3"... or tape with the 3" then follow with a 3 1/2"?

I've seen some of you guys on here running big then small, but I think I'll stick with small then big. I use AP for taping angles then finish coat with Lite Blue or +3. Having 1/2" of AP on both sides of my angles if I run big to small sounds like a pain to sand versus sanding +3! :blink: But then again I've never tried it... so I'm open to any advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,298 Posts
theres as million varibles here.

are you planning on a corner-box or a mudrunner???

the sanding is no big deal either way, I know folks worry about it, but it ain't

mixing two types of mud together is a way bigger "issue" than what size anglehead you use,,,(just had to throw that in there)

What are your competitors using,,, the reason for that is,,,,, if you live in the land of the dreaded HAND FINISHER, your GC is gonna want to see mud spread 1/2 across the board,,,,, not nessacary,,,, but expected,,,,kinda like skimming with a 12",,over a 5 1/2" bevel.

See what I mean,,,, what are YOU wanting to do????????:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
I have a 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4" and have changed up my method many times. As long as your product comes out good, it really doesn't matter what is used first.

I agree with the compounds used and sanding comment above.
 

·
Part-timer
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
theres as million varibles here.

are you planning on a corner-box or a mudrunner???

the sanding is no big deal either way, I know folks worry about it, but it ain't

mixing two types of mud together is a way bigger "issue" than what size anglehead you use,,,(just had to throw that in there)

What are your competitors using,,, the reason for that is,,,,, if you live in the land of the dreaded HAND FINISHER, your GC is gonna want to see mud spread 1/2 across the board,,,,, not nessacary,,,, but expected,,,,kinda like skimming with a 12",,over a 5 1/2" bevel.

See what I mean,,,, what are YOU wanting to do????????:(
Right now I run a donut roller and then an angle head. I haven't ran an angle box in forever, I think I need to give it a second chance already!

No hand finishers around here that I've seen, the few crews I know have been using the auto tools for 10-15 years now at least. The contractor that I'm calling here soon isn't picky about how exactly we do it... as long as it looks good and it's done on time.

"not nessacary,,,, but expected,,,,kinda like skimming with a 12",,over a 5 1/2" bevel." I've been going back and forth about that lately. Not to hijack my own thread here (so I will anyways... :D) Why exactly did auto tool crews shift from 7"/10" to 10"/12" anyway? I know we did, this was 10-15 years ago. And we did it because the other crew in town did it, we tried it and we liked it. Was it just because a 10" box went farther than the 7" did on the first coat? We were running TT then, there wasn't a Fatboy around, maybe that was why. Did the GCs see wider flats and just assume that they were "better", then that was the standard from then on? I can see it being a little easier to hide bad shoulders, but if they're that bad they need busted out anyway.

Flat is flat, right? I've been thinking about getting an 8" Fatboy and a 10" regular box in that full set. I'd 1st coat flats with the 8", and probably go back and split the butts with the 10".

Still not sure about the angles. I've never ran a head as small as 2 1/2" when taping but I'd like to try it. As long as the roller doesn't leave too much mud behind for it to handle without it getting sloppy. I'll end up with one or the other then switch it up and experiment.
 

·
Wannabe Woodworker
Joined
·
2,041 Posts
Why skim with a 10 box?
The bevel is 5 1/2 ..just block coat with a 6'' knife and skim out with an 8 box.. :D
On your flats you probably could get away with an 8" finish, butts on the other hand?? A small box will flatten a butt better than a wide box ( 8" vs 10") IMO. We have always used a 2" then 3" head to finish angles and no complaints. The 12" box only gets used on level 5 ( smoothwall). I didnt see everyone switch over to 10 12 as much as some but alot of the residential guys use them.
 

·
Part-timer
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A couple of things I forgot, I'm talking about residential jobs and the walls are always smooth around here. Ceilings in houses under $300,000 or so get a standard stomp texture, over that usually get stomp then knockdown. Smooth ceilings are rare. Closets that aren't walk-ins get rolled on the walls but not stomped, stomped ceilings... same with garages. Metal bead put on by the hangers. I swear after reading you guys I think we're stuck in 1988 around here. :D

First coating with a 6 :eek: then finish boxing with an 8 :blink: ?? Seems a tad bit small, even back in 1988 :jester: Damn, if taking just 2 inches off the boxes sounds THAT bad then maybe I'll just stick with a 10-12!
 

·
Part-timer
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've never paid attention to how wide an off angle really is, just ran an angle head above them and hand coated them. Will a 2" angle head catch those little [email protected]#kers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,507 Posts
I'd at least go with a 2.5" to tape, then a 3".
With a 2.5" at least you're filling the majority of your bevel. (unless it's certainteed sh!t)
But like everyone's been saying, there's so many possibilities that it's entirely up to you. See what works for you.

I personally use a flusher to wipe my tapes then use my angle head for my final coat. I find that sometimes the angle heads are too tight, and don't leave enough mud, it's happened in the past where myself or one of my guys will sand just a little too much and expose a bit of tape.

With a flusher it loads the corner pretty heavy on the first pass, it shrinks back a bit as it dries, then I give it a tight skim with my angle head. Done and done. But that's just what works for me.

I'd say if you get a 2.5" and a 3" you're set. Then you can try small to big or big to small and see how you like it.

Goodluck Rick.
Let me know how it goes.
 

·
Part-timer
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A 2 1/2" to tape then a 3" to finish is what I've been leaning towards, just seeing if anyone has any experience against doing that or preference for other sizes. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,507 Posts
A 2 1/2" to tape then a 3" to finish is what I've been leaning towards, just seeing if anyone has any experience against doing that or preference for other sizes. :thumbsup:
Before I switched it up to using flushers first, I was just running my 3" twice. That worked great too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,507 Posts
That's what I'm doing now. I've never ran a flusher, sounds like they're worth checkin out.
They're so easy to run!
It's funny how it goes sometimes. Around here, flushers are way more common than angle heads, so it's funny to hear guys online say they've never tried them.
I love em.
 

·
post whore
Joined
·
7,772 Posts
I've never paid attention to how wide an off angle really is, just ran an angle head above them and hand coated them. Will a 2" angle head catch those little [email protected]#kers?
Skies the limit with the angle combinations, but since your doing mostly shacks (like me) I like the smaller to bigger. Main reason is the legs by door ways. Most times a 2.5 will fit by the door, so less need to wipe things out by hand. Then another reason is most times one pass with the head is sufficient enough, well a bigger head you MIGHT half to pass over it a few more times to get it looking right.

On the 8"+10" combo vs 10"+12" combo

12" makes for a better sanding coat.

When guys spot screws, they might start with a 4" knife, then use a 5" knife for the second coat, then the final coat they use some big knife like a 6" or bigger, to hide some screw that's 3/8's of a inch wide:blink: Then to hide a 2.5" wide recess in the wall (bevell), they talk of going as small as possible:blink:

Less chance for sanding error with 12" box IMO, your keeping away from that perfect joint you just built out:thumbup:
 

·
Part-timer
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Skies the limit with the angle combinations, but since your doing mostly shacks (like me) I like the smaller to bigger. Main reason is the legs by door ways. Most times a 2.5 will fit by the door, so less need to wipe things out by hand. Then another reason is most times one pass with the head is sufficient enough, well a bigger head you MIGHT half to pass over it a few more times to get it looking right.

On the 8"+10" combo vs 10"+12" combo

12" makes for a better sanding coat.

When guys spot screws, they might start with a 4" knife, then use a 5" knife for the second coat, then the final coat they use some big knife like a 6" or bigger, to hide some screw that's 3/8's of a inch wide:blink: Then to hide a 2.5" wide recess in the wall (bevell), they talk of going as small as possible:blink:

Less chance for sanding error with 12" box IMO, your keeping away from that perfect joint you just built out:thumbup:
That's good news!

I think I'm sticking to a 10-12 routine, and I'll pick up a 2 1/2" head for taping day. Still going to check out flushers.

Now next Wednesday needs to get here so I can deposit a check or two and make that call on Thursday after they've cleared. It's gonna be a looong week!:(
 

·
FASTER THAN A MARE
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
I'd at least go with a 2.5" to tape, then a 3".
With a 2.5" at least you're filling the majority of your bevel. (unless it's certainteed sh!t)
But like everyone's been saying, there's so many possibilities that it's entirely up to you. See what works for you.

I personally use a flusher to wipe my tapes then use my angle head for my final coat. I find that sometimes the angle heads are too tight, and don't leave enough mud, it's happened in the past where myself or one of my guys will sand just a little too much and expose a bit of tape.

With a flusher it loads the corner pretty heavy on the first pass, it shrinks back a bit as it dries, then I give it a tight skim with my angle head. Done and done. But that's just what works for me.

I'd say if you get a 2.5" and a 3" you're set. Then you can try small to big or big to small and see how you like it.

Goodluck Rick.
Let me know how it goes.
can add to that, if you run 2.5 you will be dipping your flusher in the water pail more slowing production and you won't even ride on top of the bevel, not all board comes off the press rack the same and you will, I repeat will have to skim with a knife to blend some bevels,

I run Like my bro Brian says a flusher but it is a 3 cause some borders will leave angle screws out, some dirt is there also, and as Brian says leave some mud behind, then I flash out with a 3.5 some folks run the big head first but with glue mud first and wide is a appetite for a layering mess seen from the sunlight, running the 3.5 last will give a little ridge some places, stay on top of blade adjustment. I sand angles with 150 grit and cut ridge and get a beauty angle, do not over sand angle when ruff sanding a coupla brushes is good enough and angles take a long time to dry compared to the resta the mud. It will soak out any slight ridges and blend with glue mud and that is where 150 grit is Productive, do not apply mud tooo thin:)
 

·
FASTER THAN A MARE
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
Skies the limit with the angle combinations, but since your doing mostly shacks (like me) I like the smaller to bigger. Main reason is the legs by door ways. Most times a 2.5 will fit by the door, so less need to wipe things out by hand. Then another reason is most times one pass with the head is sufficient enough, well a bigger head you MIGHT half to pass over it a few more times to get it looking right.

On the 8"+10" combo vs 10"+12" combo

12" makes for a better sanding coat.

When guys spot screws, they might start with a 4" knife, then use a 5" knife for the second coat, then the final coat they use some big knife like a 6" or bigger, to hide some screw that's 3/8's of a inch wide:blink: Then to hide a 2.5" wide recess in the wall (bevell), they talk of going as small as possible:blink:

Less chance for sanding error with 12" box IMO, your keeping away from that perfect joint you just built out:thumbup:
I run 3 and 3;5 down doorways anyway

3.5 blade won't flux on doorway just blow a bit o mud to da floor
 

·
post whore
Joined
·
7,772 Posts
can add to that, if you run 2.5 you will be dipping your flusher in the water pail more slowing production and you won't even ride on top of the bevel, not all board comes off the press rack the same and you will, I repeat will have to skim with a knife to blend some bevels,
Valid point with the bevell sizes, but I don't understand the dipping your 2.5 head in water more. It could be debatable getting the 2.5 or 3". But Moose boy is right with his one comment, there seems to be more problem with the certainteed board, especially the bevell on the 54" board.

guess we get to confuse br549 with which head to get, the 2.5 or 3":yes:
 
  • Like
Reactions: br549

·
FASTER THAN A MARE
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
Valid point with the bevell sizes, but I don't understand the dipping your 2.5 head in water more. It could be debatable getting the 2.5 or 3". But Moose boy is right with his one comment, there seems to be more problem with the certainteed board, especially the bevell on the 54" board.

guess we get to confuse br549 with which head to get, the 2.5 or 3":yes:
it is choice 2buck but I know that you know I know that you are rinsing the 2,5 more than Bazooka-Joe is and evey body on DWT knows you know

can't remember what year it was when I use to fix bevels with a skim

Ok so your saying your not the sharpest flusher on the job site..... 3 will hold more mud when wiping, comon 2 buck I know it is late where you are

seems we all get into a routine until someone Jags our tape

we keep learning
 

·
post whore
Joined
·
7,772 Posts
it is choice 2buck but I know that you know I know that you are rinsing the 2,5 more than Bazooka-Joe is and evey body on DWT knows you know

can't remember what year it was when I use to fix bevels with a skim

Ok so your saying your not the sharpest flusher on the job site..... 3 will hold more mud when wiping, comon 2 buck I know it is late where you are

seems we all get into a routine until someone Jags our tape

we keep learning
I never keep any of my rollers or angle heads in a bucket of water well working, I know how to do a perfect mud mix:thumbup:
 
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
Top