if you'd be kind enough to send me some i'll let you know,i'm a pro roc taper there regional rep spoiles me with to much freebies i haven't tried anything else in years(i don't know.......maybe a pallet and i could give you the pros and cons on it)

 

I agree to your product trial. I have placed a full pallet of Durabond out by my mail box with a note on it that says "please ship this to brdn_drywall from the internet".

I'll look forward to hearing your review.

:thumbup:

 

This may help:

http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Co...nts/Prod_Data_and_Submittal_Sheets/ShtrkDrBndJoint_Compound-Data_Sheet_J17A.pdf

I like to think of it as taking the worry out of a situation that contains worry.

Its a no worries solution.

Paul.

 

Paul,

That document is exactly what I had in mind, thank you very much. We've been promoting the advantages as 1) better bond, 2) seal out moisture/humidity, 3) reduce cracks/blemishes.

If anyone has any other thoughts or wants to share their experience (good or bad), your comments would be welcome.

Thanks for the info so far.

 

The 2 advantages of durabond are less shrinkage and drying time, perfect for the 1st coat. A little harder to sand than topping.

 

The only disadvantage that I can think of. You have to be careful to keep it super flat or you will get crowned joints. I don't like the way topping or all purpose runs over the top of it.

I've used Magnum AP for tape and bed coat and and USG Powder topping for 29 years. They are greasy through the tools. Good for older goats.


Old dogs can learn new tricks

 

Thanks for the info above, especially the note on the potential crowning disadvantage.

 

We use high denisity 90 for taping through the taper.Light sand 90 in the 10inch,and regurlar mud for finishing.Pro's is you can coat flats and angles in the same day.Just have to be careful not to get to heavey on the bond.When rought sanding make sure the edges and stop marks are sanded good,or the mud will sand but the bond wont.

 

I did this beauty shop about 23 years ago. They wanted a knock down texture.
I didn't have any texture mud but I had a half a dozen brown bag durabond 210.

Spun it up and splattered it on. Gave it about 15 minutes and wiped it down.
Made the best looking texture I've ever seen. Give it a whirl.
Don't try it with the easy sand. It's to fluffy and doesn't slide through the gun and blows apart to much.

Tycoon

 

durabond

I like it for 2 reasons.
The obvious is the dry time.
But secondly the way it finishes. Whever I am doing smaller projects like a basement or an addition , I will run all 90 minute through my mud box. I'll than clean out my box and go back with a stainless steel knife and literally polish all the flats and buttjoints I just did.If you rub the durabond right before it sets up it polishes like glass. It totally eliminates sanding on the bed coat. I had one customer who was so cheap he only wanted one coat on everything......so I used this technique ,hence my new nickname was born. They call me "The 1 Coat Wonder".....lol

 

your 10" or your 12"?

 

10

I only use the 10" mud boxes. I do kinda like the way the 12 looks when finished, but all in all it just seems on all the applications I've ever used it on that they work just the same.(only a 12 is harder for a new guy to push ,takes more time and it eats up more mud).
Than I follow up with a 10" knife after. This is the only time I use a stainless steel knife...............I couldn;t pull a stick of bead with a stainless, but it does work nice on the follow up behind the mud box.

 

I really don't know what to think , drying time ?????? it may set up but that don't mean that the moister is gone ,,,, and whats the point unless it is a small job of course , but then again some are saying to make sure to rough sand , what the hell , sand ? what kinda taper that is a good taper needs to sand in between coats , don't sound like a time saver to me , or make sure you don't crown the joints sounds like an amature , could be wrong i don't think you save a whole lot of time myself thinking about having to mix the **** up and then worry about cleaning your tools up..... Quick set does have its place for very small jobs and patch work not really to tape out any major jobs and surly not for quality jobs .. of course this is only my opinion and if ya don't like it don't really give a ****...

 

Silver.I.am not saying that the bond is dry or you have to sand after taping.I guess you haven't read any of threads,I mostly do modular homes and the first coats are in bond.I just said to make sure to rought sand good.(what is taped today is painted tomorrow).There's no other way.

 

i know what you are saying and i have read many of the posts , i agree there are times to use it such as the one you just mentioned , but many think that is the best thing to come along since sliced bread which it isn't,t , i get the idea that many use it just to finish a job which should deserve more than just getting it done asap... even top coating over it seams to have problems such as bubbling since there is still moister there and the mud seems to heat up because of the catalyst in it causing further bubbling... again i agree there are times to use it but not just to get three coats on in a day on even less than a custom home...

 

I agree with SilverStilts on the problems with durabond not drying and bubbling on top coats.

The new thread says he is new to to the world of drywall. That is a beginner. Telling someone to be careful not to crown the joints with bond does not indicate I'm an amateur. Sometimes I do get paid for my jobs.

Where we may all think we are legends in our own minds I did crown some joints back in 1981. I thought I was a pro like SilverStilts.

Silver, are you Swedish or Norwegian ?

 

10-1 I say he's Norwegian

 

Avgjord !

No good Swedish brother would imply that I am an amateur.
Was told that a Norwegian is a Swede without brains.

 

Was that a racist remark?

 

In Regards to saving time
Let's take an average 400 sheet home.
On day 1: you can run all the angles with the tube, have your lessor skilled man mesh tape everything than run the flat box and bed coat all the seams and rub them down before you leave.
On Day 2: You can bed coat all the cornerbead,skim the angles, lightly sand (sanding is minimal since you polished them out the day before) than skim all the flats and butt joints with straght Plus 3.
On Day 3: Skim all the cornerbead---do your textures etc
Day 4....?? sand
...............On this same project many guys just Tape eveything on day 1, on day 2 bed coat, on day 3 skim, on day 4 texture, on day 5 sand. Durabond when applied at the right time on a project can save you 1 day per 400 sheets. If you do even at minimal 30 homes a year ,your savings really add up.
This is just my opinion. I've never had a single complaint issue so it works for me.
To each his own I guess.

 

In Regards to saving time
Let's take an average 400 sheet home.
On day 1: you can run all the angles with the tube, have your lessor skilled man mesh tape everything than run the flat box and bed coat all the seams and rub them down before you leave.
On Day 2: You can bed coat all the cornerbead,skim the angles, lightly sand (sanding is minimal since you polished them out the day before) than skim all the flats and butt joints with straght Plus 3.
On Day 3: Skim all the cornerbead---do your textures etc
Day 4....?? sand
...............On this same project many guys just Tape eveything on day 1, on day 2 bed coat, on day 3 skim, on day 4 texture, on day 5 sand. Durabond when applied at the right time on a project can save you 1 day per 400 sheets. If you do even at minimal 30 homes a year ,your savings really add up.
This is just my opinion. I've never had a single complaint issue so it works for me.
To each his own I guess.

How many guys are you talking about any way on a 400 sheet house ? I with 2 helpers can do a 300 sheeter in 4 days thats texture the ceilings and sand on the fourth day . plus clean up everything...... what is the condition of the job when you are done as far as being clean?? just curious..... and mine is not taped with mesh or quick set..

 

an average 400 sheet home. holy $hit batman. Ohio must be loaded! Obama must have already sent his stimulus package there!

 

well if you must know i am both , what let u to that conclusion , as far as my brain works well lets just say so far its been good not leading me to far astray maybe a little opinionated at times ... speaking of ethnic backgrounds my first wife was of German & Russian decent holy crap what attitude :furious: she had , whew done with that!!!!

 

I was just thinking that with all the polish folks in NE minneapolis you would be a little sympathetic ******

 

We gotta get together so I can buy you a beer, how about that?

but last time I was anywhere in Mpls, I don't remember seeing any polish folk... just the guys with really dark tans! hahahah

 

Added Durabond Benifit

One overlooked benifit of the durabond setting type compounds is the ability to go over the wall and joint system with plaster veneer products. This cannot be said with the all-purpose mud products. USG specifically recommends durabond for joints when using Imperial Veneer plaster. There are a scant few products which can bridge the interface properly between wallboard and plaster at the joints, but Durabond is one of them.

 

Plaster brown coat

I plastered the Meijer Majestic Theatre in Grand Rapids. The project manager was a recycled USG rep. He made us use durabond and paper tape for joints and angles. I did not believe it. But in the USG plaster manual it specifies that durabond and paper tape are required to warranty the system.

Must be the old Bass terds that taught me how to plaster did not know what they were doing when they used fibre tape and diamond base. Bottom line. Diamond finish does not work as well over durabond as it does over diamond base. But you can't get covered by USG without it. CYA

One overlooked benifit of the durabond setting type compounds is the ability to go over the wall and joint system with plaster veneer products. This cannot be said with the all-purpose mud products. USG specifically recommends durabond for joints when using Imperial Veneer plaster. There are a scant few products which can bridge the interface properly between wallboard and plaster at the joints, but Durabond is one of them.

 

Durabond has been my main product for 24 years now, I use this stuff to do base coat for Crown Moulding repairs, also use it for matching textures from the 1920's.


www.frankawitz.net

 

Hi Drywall Solutions:

On the topic of Durabond I see very little value at all. To me the whole purpose of the first coat is to try to keep it as low as possible. The best way to do this is to use all purpose compound it shrinks and dries hard. What I've been doing if someone needs to get a job done quickly is use the Lafarge Rapid Coat for first coat and top it with all purpose as your second coat. The Lafarge Rapid Coat is basically prefixed durabond, it doesn't dry as quickly so if there are a number of corner beads it what help you out much. Your still sacrificing quality by not getting the shrinkage on the first coat as you would from all purpose. Hey I have a website, it's fairfieldcountydrywall.org, please anybody give me some honest feedback.

Brian

 

I have to agree and disagree .... I am not a fan of quick setting mud's only for repairs or very small projects and perhaps a big fill that may take days to dry with regular compound .... as far as the shrinkage part on first coat i disagree . It all depends on your wipe down quality . I myself like to see all the recess in the flats filled on wipe down without the humping of course , trying to leave it flat , the shrinkage is minimal with all purpose and makes your second coat much fuller and takes less time. By the time you do a third coat you should only have to skim out tight ( that is if the second coat is done right ) To me the perfect second coat is where you do not see the edges on the recess after it is dry... There is nothing worse than going to second coat and the first was wiped out with a six inch knife where an eight should have been used...

 

Durabond 240 is ideal for the bed coat in all weather, which keeps the house on schedule plus it's an " upgraded product". Call it a green product if it sells. Drywall is the original green product.

 

durabond 90 is just right any slower you could not 2nd coat