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FASTER THAN A MARE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
120 grit works good,there 2buck finally agree with you,

I just used it today and that sheep herder 2buck was on my mind

so what do you guys think of 120?
 

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Does It Work!?
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I like the 120 paper I use. Use it for quick rough sanding back the 1st coat, and quick sanding back the finish coat some, before finer sanding it with usually 180. Sometimes I'll use 150 in place of the 120, and sometimes I'll use 150 in place of the 180. It depends.
 

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120 grit works good,there 2buck finally agree with you,

I just used it today and that sheep herder 2buck was on my mind

so what do you guys think of 120?
120 is awesome:thumbup:

But don't forget, it depends on what type of mud you use. I prefer tougher muds, they buff out nicer with a higher grit, and leave no sanding lines.

But some like to use softer muds,,,,, like machine mud:whistling2:, 180 grit, looks like 120 grit was used:yes:
 

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Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it. :eek:
 

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Average Member
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Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it. :eek:
Our topping is the same way. If I put a scratch in it with 180-220, I use my hand to buff it out. So easy to sand.....but so difficult to sand perfectly.
 

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Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it. :eek:
That's what Moose boys mud is like, using 120 grit on his mud, would look like slimpickins recommended 60 grit:whistling2:

Was on a commercial job long time ago, I was liking the machine mud back then, but not the DWC. He stopped supplying it. Why, just too dam soft. Think about rows of stand ups, and people running their hands across the joint to see how smooth and flat it is. Every taper knows what I mean by that, when you say your done, people run their hands across the joints for some reason. It's like putting up a "wet paint" sign, everyone wants to touch it, to see if it's wet.

Then throw in everyday abuse on the walls, people leaning up or brushing against the walls. All the flats would half to get re-done
 

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FASTER THAN A MARE
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it. :eek:
sounds good for topping

guy used AP on a job hand slam Yuk, all the way to finnish
 

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What is machine mud? I finish with USG Plus 3 all time, so it's always 150, and medium grit 3m blocks. I also use a Radius360 polesanding head. Best pole sander ever! It also means I can use the same paper on my Porter Cable rotary sander. As far as sanding between coats? Thats a rookie move.if you block it right, you shouldn't need to sand between coats! Unless maybe your doing some nasty patch work.
 

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post whore
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What is machine mud? I finish with USG Plus 3 all time, so it's always 150, and medium grit 3m blocks. I also use a Radius360 polesanding head. Best pole sander ever! It also means I can use the same paper on my Porter Cable rotary sander. As far as sanding between coats? Thats a rookie move.if you block it right, you shouldn't need to sand between coats! Unless maybe your doing some nasty patch work.
Dammit ,I'm a Rookie then:(

Please teach everything you know:D:yes:
 

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Im doing a room right now that i tore out the wall paper and skimmed it Twice and it still looks pretty bad lots of lines that i call streakers or hitch hikers. Im sanding most of them out. Is there anything different I can do or should have done for next time.
 
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