What sizes?

Scott_w

I am new to auto tool sets. I think I have pretty much everything I need, except maybe the proper angle heads.

I have a 3", but have heard many talk of the 3 1/2". Is the larger one needed, or am I fine with a 3"? Also do I need a smaller one as well?

thanks...scott

Tim0282

We use a three inch on the first coat (tape) and a three and one quarter on the second. for years we used three first and two second. You'll have kind of a fat edge if oyu use three both coats.

Capt-sheetrock

You need two differant sizes, cause if you don't, as mentioned, you will leave a hard edge when you two coat with the same size. I use the bigger first and the smaller second. Some do it the other way. I prefer the 3 1/2 over the three, simply cause it comes farther down OFF the bevel (think top wall board) than the 3. However a 3 will do you fine.

Another factor to consider is a mudrunner vs a corner box. With a mudrunner a 3 1/2 is no big deal, but its a bit mo work with a corner box.

Anyway, your gonna have to have at least two differant sizes.

Scott_w

Thanks for the replies. Yes I have a mudrunner. So should I go with the 3.5" then or the smaller (2, 2.5"?).

Would I use the mudrunner for both?

thanks...scott

2buckcanuck

So many ways.......I prefer the 2 1/2 mechanical head first because it fits by your door jams better ,tight spots etc.you can push on it lightly and it fills the bevel good,fast to rough sand too,use to go with a 3 1/2
In your case you might be better to go bigger ,2 1/2 and then 3" may not feather out enough,maybe 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 .experiment in closets etc ,change back and forth between sizes till you find the method you like ,3' then 31/2 or 3 1/2 then 3" ,even try 3" and 3" (just rough sand edge good)
the crazy way Im doing it now is 2 1/2" tape tec mechanical head then a can am 3 1/2 " wiping head .YES I said it a cam am head.yes they wear out but you can file them to get their point-edge back and you can adjust the flow of mud by moving the runners (skies) forwards or back .around 80 bucks for can am head ,cheaper than a set of blades for a mechanical head.be prepared to learn how to adjust your blades all the time with mechanical ,there is maintenance with them.dont put tape on with can am though,mechanical better
so since you have a mud runner (not me $1400 cdn)try a can am flusher head (one with hole in it) on your mud runner ,you could be surprised and it's cheaper too (over your 3")

Scott_w

Thanks. I also have the BTE flusher kit. I wonder if I can drill a bigger hole in them and use un the mud runner?

FYI.. there is a mud runner on ebay right now for a starting bid of 175 or buy it now for 400. I have no idea how good it is. Just passing it on.

I bought mine used, and all my other stuff is used as well (mostly from ebay). I did by a new adjustable box handle though.

scott

Scott_w

I have found a few used 3.5" heads, what is better columbia or drywallmaster? I think the DM is newer, with new blades that need adjustment. Is this hard to do?

scott

2buckcanuck

whats better ? sorta like fighting about who's better chevy or ford,it's preference,pick the one that looks stronger .(mine tape tec)
how to adjust the blades---easier to show than explain
http://www.drywallmastertools.com/corner-finishers.php here's a pick of one for reference
-1st pray to god you can get the little ellen key set screws out without striping them
-squeeze and hold or squeeze and duct tape the head ,hope you know what i mean -so the wings are under pressure,don't leave it in its relaxed position
-top blades easy,just keep points centered,then tighten screws
-now keep head in relaxed position ,(stop squeezing wings or take duct tape off !
-now put side blades in, they MIGHT!! need adjusting,they should sit one millimeter below top blades,DONT keep them level to top blades,just tiny bit below them.
-now make sure side blades sitting level and tighten
-side blades have most effect (not all) on the flow of mud
-spark plug gauge comes in handy too,you can use it for box blade adjustments too
-your new head might tear tapes at 1st too ,just rub point against cement floor ,brick or what ever -not too much !!
which area of ontario you working in ,I'm south western (Lon.)

Scott_w

Thanks, I am in St. Catharines. All my stuff so far is Tapetech, with the exception of the pump and 3" head.

Just searching ebay for some deals. Then I have to learn how to use the stuff!

thanks....scott

Capt-sheetrock

If you use the mudrunner, Use the 3 1/2 (on the murunner) when you tape, then a 2 1/2 for the second (skim) on the mudrunner.

Or you can use a 3 then a 2. Again I prefer to run the bigger then the smaller, some like to do it the oppisite way (even if I never understand that, cept maybe they are stuck in the "hand finihing" mode).

2buckcanuck

So a guy that uses a bazooka,a 2 1/2 " mechanical wiper on a angel handle,then flushes /glazes with a 3 1/2" angel box-mud runner-can am tube-or what ever ......."ARE STUCK IN THE HAND FINISHING MODE"
i'm confused now
you sure you even half to corner flush your angles if your using a mudrunner to wipe your angle tapes.sounds like your putting a lot of mud on your tapes like a HAND taper would,are you loading with that mudrunner while your wiping your angle tapes???or using it empty like a angel handle (applying no mud while you wipe)???

Mudstar

I think they are loading the angles.

Bazooka leaves plenty to mud to flush off with 3" on a handle. Then close to end of the job I angle box with a 2 1/2'" to cover the tape.

2buckcanuck

oh no i agree mudstar,I know with mechanical heads they suggest bigger then smaller,but if you switched small to big and run corner box it still puts mud on very very very damn tight.would not compare that to hand taping.
now back in my younger days we put a 3 1/2" columbia head on a can am tube to wipe and load tape at same time.talk about flash ,by the time we done sanding the crap out of it we were like do we even half to flush this (we did)
learn by mistakes,thats what eventually makes you good one day...... you from Ontario too mudstar ?

Bevelation

Different.

I ran a 3" for a full year flushing and coating and never had those problems.

__________________
What do you add to powdered water?

Capt-sheetrock

Gee fella's I guess I ruffled some feathers here.

What I meant about "hand Finishers" is that some folks never get the hang of running a smaller head after a larger one, cause in hand finishing, you always run smaller to bigger. Thats all, didn't mean to belittle anyone,,, okay??

I tape with the bazooka, run the corner roller then run the mudrunner with the 3 1/2 head, putting mud on as i do it. Second coat I run with the mudrunner and a 2 1/2 head.

Like I stated several times, there as many differant ways to do it. mine is not the only way, it works for me, so I do it like that.

I also keep a 2" head on a pole just for them pesky little corners by the tight doors that are too small for the 3 1/2.

Saul_Surfaces

I'm with you Captain. I run a 2.5" to wipe my tape, a 3" for 1st coat, and a 2" for third coat. If I used the 3" after the 2" the wings on my 3" wouldn't reach tight to the wall and I'd have to feather out everything by hand.

I have to run the angle head over the wall twice to get a pretty enough bead. Is this common? I do run my corner mud thicker than some, its nearly thick enough for my flat boxes--I find it cuts down the risk of fish eyes.

Mudstar

I'm in a couple places in Canada but not at the same time.

cazna

Im not having any trouble with a 2.5 followed with a 3.5 on the mudrunner, I find the 2.5 nicer for setting up the 3 way corners then cover it all with the 3.5, its leaving a nice level corner, no ridges, good feathered edge.

Love the mudrunner, its fast and easy, leaves a really great coat, less filling and less pushing than my anglebox.

Funny how we all have so many different ways to acheive the same thing.

Capt-sheetrock

I have done it that way before. However, it makes for one extra coat your way. I figured out that if I use the mudrunner with the 3 1/2 on the first coat, it elimanated the "wipe the tape coat first, let dry and then run again" step.

You mentioned that you have to run the anglehead over the wall twice,,, I know this will bring up another can of worms, but if you do, it is simply because your mud is too thick. Thin mud on a mudrunner will dry out as well or BETTER than thick mud run by hand or by a corner box.

Again, don't take my word for it, just pick a small room and try it for yourself.

Capt-sheetrock

Mud, I have alot of respect for you and your posts,, However,,, what kind of bazooka are you running??? I have a DM Col & TT, none of which leave enough mud to simply glaze with a 3" anglehead on a pole.