Question on angle box - Drywall Talk - Professional Drywall and Finishing Contractors Forum

PHS79 · 01-25-2010, 09:53 PM

The company that I work for just bought our first angle box, a 8" Goldblatt G2 with 3" head. None of us have ever ran an angle box before. That box seems really hard to use. We are using USG all-purpose compound, and when we mix the mud so that it comes out of the box easier then it is also real loose and some mud falls to the floor. Plus the head seems really hard to move, I am 6'2"/220lbs and in pretty darn good shape, but by the time I was done running the ceiling corners I was wopped.

Are there any tips to useing a corner box? I was useing the same mud mix that I am in my 10 and 12" boxes, and works fine in them. Do I have to do something different?

alltex · 01-25-2010, 10:33 PM

Try oiling the head ,hold it so its pointed strait at the angle.Also check to see if the ruubber seals are in right, and hurry up !!!

PHS79 · 01-25-2010, 10:48 PM

I will try that tomorrow. I should clarify that when I say that the head moves real hard, I mean that it moves down the corner hard. You have to force it, it doesn't "glide" like the 10 and 12" boxes do. Thats what makes me wonder if there is a "secret" to running a angle box that I haven't found.

Muddauber · 01-26-2010, 07:12 AM

How are you taping the angles? Bazooka,roll & glaze with angle head? Hand taping angles.
If hand taping, or wiping angle tape by knife, it's hard to push a box over the tape.

**silverstilts** · 01-26-2010, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddauber

How are you taping the angles? Bazooka,roll & glaze with angle head? Hand taping angles.
If hand taping, or wiping angle tape by knife, it's hard to push a box over the tape.

Have to agree on the point of running the angle box behind hand wiped tape its a pain to do and there is so much drag. Also if it is your first time running the angle box that in itself can be a reason it seems hard. Possible new angle head not broke in yet also. I remember the first few times i had to run the angle box being short on top of everything else it wanted me to give up. Running an angle box is really designed for after the angles are rolled and glaze (plowed) in the first place otherwise you will find it wont get much easier. 3" first then 2" is the proper way. If you go 2" to 3" it will leave fat edges or ridges. Make sure the rubber gasket is well lubricated will make thing much easier also. One more thing is the mud has to be thinner than what you use in your other boxes remember you are forcing that mud through a much smaller holes from the box into the small holes on the angle head itself.

taper71 · 01-26-2010, 09:13 AM

What Siver said except I use a 3 " then 3 1/2 never understood why ppl think a 2 inch is better after a 3 ", doesn 't fill the bevelled edge IMO ( and yes i've tried)

and this has been discussed before.

PHS79 · 01-26-2010, 05:40 PM

We used a banjo to apply the tape, then rolled and finally used the angle head to "wipe" the corner. I did the 2nd coat today, and switched from USG all-purpose to lightweight +3. Things went better today, not great, but better non the less. Maybe it was the mud, maybe I was just doing something different that I didn't realize.

Since I don't tape full time, I am a carpenter by trade for a small construction company. So in the winter to keep busy we hang and then I do all the taping (and stick one of the other guys with mixing mud and spoting nails) So I don't get a chance to use the tools very often, to try different tricks.

As a winter project I am finishing my basement and will be hanging and taping that hopefully in the next couple weeks, so I will try everything again and see what happens. Hopefully with a little better results.

Thanks guys!

thesprayking · 01-28-2010, 01:12 AM

If you never used any angle box before and have no one around to show you.This is a tough tool to learn on your own. First off,you need to thin your mud down to a thin consistency, Like taping mud (if you tape with thin mud) Second, If you were rolling and glazing your angles on the tape coat it should help. If you are on a crooked remodel that will factor also. Is the angle head set up right? the settings/wheels look okay? Also the angle of the angle box to the corner will also be a factor to how hard it is. if it is too close to either the ceiling or the wall, the angle will be hard to run. Hold the angle box at a 45degree angle to the top ceiling (basically perfectly in the middle of the ceiling and wall). imagine the wall and the ceiling being a 90 degree angle, now put the angle box directly in the middle which is 45deg. that angle and the mud mix will be the main reason how hard it is.

01-25-2010, 09:53 PM	#1
PHS79 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 12	Question on angle box The company that I work for just bought our first angle box, a 8" Goldblatt G2 with 3" head. None of us have ever ran an angle box before. That box seems really hard to use. We are using USG all-purpose compound, and when we mix the mud so that it comes out of the box easier then it is also real loose and some mud falls to the floor. Plus the head seems really hard to move, I am 6'2"/220lbs and in pretty darn good shape, but by the time I was done running the ceiling corners I was wopped. Are there any tips to useing a corner box? I was useing the same mud mix that I am in my 10 and 12" boxes, and works fine in them. Do I have to do something different?

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01-25-2010, 10:33 PM	#2
alltex Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: washington state Posts: 150	Try oiling the head ,hold it so its pointed strait at the angle.Also check to see if the ruubber seals are in right, and hurry up !!!

01-25-2010, 10:48 PM	#3
PHS79 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 12	I will try that tomorrow. I should clarify that when I say that the head moves real hard, I mean that it moves down the corner hard. You have to force it, it doesn't "glide" like the 10 and 12" boxes do. Thats what makes me wonder if there is a "secret" to running a angle box that I haven't found.

01-26-2010, 07:12 AM	#4
Muddauber Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ky. Posts: 159	How are you taping the angles? Bazooka,roll & glaze with angle head? Hand taping angles. If hand taping, or wiping angle tape by knife, it's hard to push a box over the tape.

01-26-2010, 09:13 AM	#6
taper71 Mud Manipulator Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Sherwood Park, AB Posts: 91	What Siver said except I use a 3 " then 3 1/2 never understood why ppl think a 2 inch is better after a 3 ", doesn 't fill the bevelled edge IMO ( and yes i've tried) and this has been discussed before.

01-26-2010, 05:40 PM	#7
PHS79 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 12	We used a banjo to apply the tape, then rolled and finally used the angle head to "wipe" the corner. I did the 2nd coat today, and switched from USG all-purpose to lightweight +3. Things went better today, not great, but better non the less. Maybe it was the mud, maybe I was just doing something different that I didn't realize. Since I don't tape full time, I am a carpenter by trade for a small construction company. So in the winter to keep busy we hang and then I do all the taping (and stick one of the other guys with mixing mud and spoting nails) So I don't get a chance to use the tools very often, to try different tricks. As a winter project I am finishing my basement and will be hanging and taping that hopefully in the next couple weeks, so I will try everything again and see what happens. Hopefully with a little better results. Thanks guys!

01-28-2010, 01:12 AM	#8
thesprayking Drywall Savant Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: No. Cali Posts: 28	If you never used any angle box before and have no one around to show you.This is a tough tool to learn on your own. First off,you need to thin your mud down to a thin consistency, Like taping mud (if you tape with thin mud) Second, If you were rolling and glazing your angles on the tape coat it should help. If you are on a crooked remodel that will factor also. Is the angle head set up right? the settings/wheels look okay? Also the angle of the angle box to the corner will also be a factor to how hard it is. if it is too close to either the ceiling or the wall, the angle will be hard to run. Hold the angle box at a 45degree angle to the top ceiling (basically perfectly in the middle of the ceiling and wall). imagine the wall and the ceiling being a 90 degree angle, now put the angle box directly in the middle which is 45deg. that angle and the mud mix will be the main reason how hard it is.