No Poc Pro: works?

JustMe

Came across this on All-Wall's site:

http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/No_...l_Formula.html

By 'pocks', I'm thinking they're meaning what we call 'fish eyes'. Are the benefits of this product as advertised? Any real downsides?

JustMe

Soooo - what happened to "my Canadian friend. Buddy"? When were you going to tell me? After I'd bought some, and came back to tell how great it worked? ~

Or maybe you just didn't get back to the site since I started this thread.

Anyway, I did buy some bead boxers and tried them on the paper covered metal bead used on the commercial jobs I'm involved with. I'm building my own version of what I think will work better.

19Riggs88

Never tried it...but I was reluctantly talked into trying a little dish soap in each pail of mud. I was impressed on how it really makes a difference in not getting pock holes in the mud. Even on the deeper first coats. Now I wonder why the manufactures for Plus 3, and Proform Lite Blue don't have a tad of this in their formula?

JustMe

If it does work, I'm wondering the same. Does it play with the integrity of the mud too much at times or something?

The product benefits listed for No Pock seem interesting enough:

Reduces Pock Marks
Less Shrinkage
Faster & Fewer Applications
Saves time

How you get things with it like less shrinkage, I don't know. Is it because you can run your mud with less water in it?

The 'Faster and Fewer Applications' reminds me of a job done recently. One of the company's tapers had to do a business that had flooded, and the bottom 2' of board had to be replaced. There was supposedly a lot of pock holes that showed up when it was painted. I was told it was due to him applying mud over top of areas that were already painted, and water from the mud couldn't go into the wall, so it came out the face, creating pock marks in the process. Also was told that sanding earlier layers before recoating likely filled the holes with dust, and the paint roller later 'pulled' the dust out, exposing the holes. I was told by another taper that the solution was to put the mud on in thin layers. I don't know how right they are, but I'm wondering if this stuff might have helped prevent much of the problem.

19Riggs88

Good point..

Coating over painted wall is always a little more work. The paint doesn't allow any moister to be drawn into the board and as it dries all the moisture is pushed out creating all the pock marks and pin holes.
The more of a gloss the paint has the worse the mud pocks.

Yes when sanding, the pocks may be filled with dust making them hard to see until the paint sprayer blows them out (or roller)

What I do is just coat the joints like normal and when it's ready to sand go through and lightly sand everything to knock the mud domes off the pocks that rose up. Then dust off the joints.
Then go through and give your pock marks one or two tight coats basically like your coating screws. The catch here is you may have to press the mud into the pocks and pull it both directions when wiping out.

I haven't tried it yet but supposedly there is a new primer out there that you can paint on these remodel or touchup jobs that prevent pocks. Probably just a superflat paint I would guess with a marketing plot.

I'm not sure but perhaps the No-Pock is just a dish soap with a marketing plot too.

Which brings to mind that even though the dish soap really works it still doesn't help when coating on painted walls.

JustMe

I can see my wife's electric leaf blower getting used for something else besides blowing leaves.

I think I heard someone mentioning this, too. Don't remember anything being said about a superflat paint, though.

19Riggs88

If you have a Vac Sander this works too. Which brings to mind maybe try a shop vac to avoid the dust bowl?

The paint part was just a wild guess on my part as to what the product actually is.

JustMe

Actually, I recently picked up an 'over the shoulder' vac from a Canadian and U.S. supplier that's supposed to be specific for drywall dust, which I would maybe try using:

http://www.kingdrywall.com/ProductDe...oductCode=K600

It may turn out to be not that great a vacuum, but it does seem to suck and blow. No pun intended. I thought I'd risk some of my Canadian dollars and give it a try. Not having to drag a vac around a site when using my power sander is appealing.

I also picked up one of their Porter Cable knock off sanders at the same time:

http://www.kingdrywall.com/?gclid=CI...FQENDQodjCinEQ

The price seemed cheap enough, so thought I'd risk a few more dollars and have it at least as a backup to my Porter Cable. It also satisfies my 'contingency planning' personality type. I don't like to offer something like 'dustless sanding', and have the Porter Cable break down and not be able to deliver.

I haven't used any of the tools on a job yet, so I can't say how well they work.

Before anyone goes thinking about buying, they supposedly have a patent infringement lawsuit filed against them from Black & Decker on the sander - something I found out about on the net after I bought it. I don't know how that'll affect things. Maybe it'll get dragged out till the patents expire or something. The vac should work on any drywall sander, including Porter Cable's.

brdn_drywall

just me, let us know how that vac works out, looks sweet. as for the rotoblast 880 i've had no problems with mine other than the switch that went with-in the first few weeks, but quickly got a new one covered under warrenty.

brdn_drywall

by the way riggs and justme I've already described the best way to get rid of "fish-eyes" and pock, look on page 2 in the air bubbles when mud over paint thread (page-2) drywall finishing section.

JustMe

I'll do that.

Good to know it works well enough. It's actually supposed to have a bit larger motor than my Porter Cable. And they claim their cable doesn't break like PC is supposed to do. (I was in at a Home Depot contractor rental section the other day. Note on their PC sander - something like 'Don't rent/cable broken'.

The motor in my PC is 4.7 amp. One concern I had is that I'd heard they were underpowered for serious sanding. But I've come across some PC listings that have the motor as being 3.6? 3.8? so thought maybe those might be (older?) models that could've been underpowered.

JustMe

I am INTJ. Going 666 on them should be no problem for me.