Fibafuse Thoughts/views???

kgphoto

I think the main benefit of Fiba-Fuse is the increase strength. Maybe it will reduce callbacks for those annoying corner cracks at windows and doors. That and the fact that is can be used with GP or Hot Mud.

Certainly for production work it will have to be able to be applied with the speed of a bazooka, so maybe a retro fit kit or their own bazooka will have to be introduced.

cazna

You got me thinking about this non absorbing thing and its a great point.

Say with you do a butt and its a bit daggy along the edges so you cut it out (V it) then you need to fill this gap first before you tape becouse if you fill it and then tape it with paper, the paper absorbs and peaks outwards leaving you with and annoying hump right in the butt that you have to deal with.

So you have to fill this gap with some mud first, let dry, then tape so you get a nice flat tape.
Well today i just filled the gap put fibafuse on it wiped it off to see want would happen...............It didnt peak out, it peaked in, A little.
So it seems your right Mudstar, it does not absorb which is great, now if i do a smaller hot mud job no longer do i need to prefill these butts (Yes i know more shrinkage, maybe) But some jobs are a rush, so how handy its that

But wait theres more, with a blow out you have to cut it, fill it, dry then tape it so it does not sag out either, Yep i did a few small ones with the fuse and it didnt sag out. Great, it really is a no brainer, Cheers Mudstar.

And get a couple of off cuts of board and tape some paper and fuse to it but leave a dry bit hanging out so you can grab it and pull it off then you shall see which is stronger. Im loving this stuff but yes it needs to be able to go through the bazooka, which i shall be giving a dam good go in a few weeks.

If you get any movement with paper, it has no give, ok its fairly strong but it will just break and give a hairline crack, i dont think this stuff can break that way, it seems to give a little more before it could break, like the old fibre board, that wouldnt break would it, tear a little yes but not a clean break, So what would a broken fiberfuse join be like?? not like paper that breaks then the two sheets of board are seperated, or like the old fiberous plaster board, split a little but still stay together? so how would you fix that? prob just a peice of fuse over it and start agian? Time will tell i guess, Phew what a ramble, you know, i was a bad typer before this DWT nonsence.

Capt-sheetrock

Are you saying that Fiber-fuse is so strong that it will prevent cracks around windows and doors due to settleling?? Must be better than we thought. I believe paper tape can be used with Gp and hot mud also.

kgphoto

Captn.,

Not quite what I meant. Fiba-Fuse is 70% stronger than paper. Maybe that is enough to withstand the nominal settling.

I find most homes have been taped with paper and they crack. Maybe that is just the only time they will crack and now that the house is settled it won't crack again, no matter what you do.

I have be asked to repair recurring cracks fixed by other tradesmen. I usually do more than just smear on some mud, like so many painters do.

I usually dig out and refasten the board if it shows movement and then pre-fill and tape with hot mud. other than the big earthquakes that hit our area about every 10-15 years, they don't crack again.

I have used Fiba-Fuse on my plaster ceiling crack in a hallway. I did various sections with hot mud and GP with Mesh and Fiba-Fuse. I am waiting to see if any re-cracks.

DSJOHN

Kg you live in earthquake land --everything cracks

Kiwiman

Someone mentioned about having to modify the bazooka to run fibafuse, My clapped out old clunker of a bazooka runs it just fine, the only difference would be the pin that advances the tape is "blunt".

SaskMud

By blunt,,, you mean dull?

Kiwiman

Yep...A bit like me on a Monday morning.

cazna

Thats interesting its feeding ok kiwiman, i will be trying it in a week or so, will update how i get on, looking forward to it though.

Im not really a bazooka champ, so a fingerfeed wont bother me to much, its only a day and the house is taped out for flats anyway, im using paper for corners, so i dont see any huge time loss if i do need to fingerfeed it, If i was just doing new house after new house then it would but im doing all aspects of it, patch ups, renos, painting, wallpapering, im plastering then painting this one, so really my bazooka time is quite small in the big picture of things.

rhardman

On your job, how about taking a pencil eraser and sticking it on the needle for the tape advance? If it doesn't bind in the open groove underneath, it might work okay. You may need to play with how deep the eraser is mounted on the needle. Spring tension is another question.

It's worth a try.

I drew up an accessory that would adapt to the bazooka that should push the FibaFuse fine. I just don't have time to build it.

(Kiwi, I haven't forgotten...)

cazna

Hi Rick, Do you mean the rubber off the top of a pencil?? stick that onto the gooser needle?? Some better rubber might work too, good idea i will give it a go

rhardman

The rubber (eraser) from the pencil I thought would be best as it's fairly light weight and will take the needle with little effort.

I'm sure other types of rubber would work too. The thing is that you want it to have the smallest footprint on the tape as possible so when it pulls back, it doesn't drag on the tape and cause loose fibers to fall loose and build up.

roominaday

I have taped (repaired) my own modular house with fibafuse and replaced all the cracked beads with trimtex chamfer. It was delivered in 2 peices and every friggen window and door is cracked as well as many of the angles. I installed new dw in the stairwell and used it with GP. All the window and door cracks I cut out and used fast-set with fibafuse right away, and left a small film on it. You can almost get a way with 2 coats (bed and fill) and it looks like a level 4.e. I used Nocoat 325 in all the cracked inside offsets.

I have been using it here and there for certain jobs. I used a combination of fuse and paper in the corners of my own home.


Fuse summary -It sits very flat, dried fast, its excellent with hotmud and GP, and I like it on butts. I trust it way more than fibertape and I am sick of mixing hot mud.

I am still worried about the long term performance but I like it a lot except in corners, not sold on it yet as I am too scared to try it in a whole house and use it sparingly in many houses just to play with it.

__________________
Jeff Huff
Room In A Day
www.roominaday
www.facebook.com/roominaday

automatictools

Another problem with running this through a taper is the cutting blade wearing quickly. There seems to be two blades that differ in performance. The best is very polished and mirror looking the other is dull like any low cost blade. The dull ones seem to run out much quicker and can cause binds and jams when it only cuts 1/2 way through. Sharp or dull needles have never been a issue for us (but this is bench testing - MUCH different than jobsite).

__________________

walltools

We posted a FibaFuse video up on our new blog page. Check it out and share some of your thoughts on the blog: http://www.walltools.com/store/blog/

__________________
Brandon Hunter, President - Wall Tools

877-WAL-TOOL / www.walltools.com

cazna

Yeah seen that clip many times.

Now Tom, why have you been marketing the fibrefuse saying you need to remove the gooser needle and finger feed through the bazooka???
I used it today and it ran just fine, no problems at all, in fact it was just as easy if not easier than paper, i didnt take the gooser needle off my goldblatt G2, its a sharp needle and i had a little peice of rubber handy to try ricks trick if i needed too but i didnt, it worked great.

I cant see me going back to paper now for the flats, fuse is much better, stronger, better drying, better on butts, nice to wipe down, great through bazooka or banjo, great with hot muds or taping or all purpose, dosent absorb water so dosent swell as paper can. Great product.

Kiwiman

Yup, me too, if I were the fibafuse owners I would temporarely drop the price to the same as paper, then once everyone is hooked the extra volume should bring prices down permanently, otherwise it will always sit in second place.

Mudstar

Any product that does not absorb the compound won't bind anything period. Whats so hard to understand about that. I dare you to challenge dipping paper tape into taping mud and then a fiberglass based tape, let it soak for a couple minutes or more, pull out and wipe off the access and let dry. I guarantee that you can bend and twist and rip both tapes and the paper will be stronger and will not have anywhere close to what any fiberglass base tape in the means of compound separating from the tape in the form of crumbs of compound.

Try it for yourself

kgphoto

Mudstar,

Is that a real world test? I mean, what does it show as a comparison to the forces on drywall tape in the field? Just trying to understand your point. Or are all you are saying is that the dried mud with stick to the paper better than it will stick to the fiba fuse surface while both are hanging in the air?

If that is the case, then shouldn't you just stick both to a piece off drywall, let dry and then try to pull them off? Wouldn't that be a more real world test?

cazna

With fibrafuse the mud goes through and all around the fibers, How can that not bind, I have tested, stuck board together with paper and fuse, let dry and pulled and twisted it apart etc, im happy with it, cant see any problems, seems better than paper so im sold for now, if it goes wrong mudstar you will be the first one i tell