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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 4
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I am looking for feed back on my invention, before I machine the production molds. I am a carpenter with 25+ years on the job. I have invented a product
for reinforcing drywall at all types of electrical boxes. The Mulligan® is a patent pending and trade marked, plastic injected part made in the US of UL pre-approved fire rated plastic. Either staples or spray adhesive fastens The Mulligan® to the drywall. The mud screed makes finishing effortless. The electrical device bears on the Mulligan® for solid mounting. Do you guys see this being used by professionals or just homeowners?? Please visit my website and let me know your thoughts. Thanks www.mulliganproducts.com |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 89
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Western New York
Posts: 135
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I do like the fact that the outlet/switch has a bearing place. Many other box fixing methods do not.
Sometimes you just run into situations where you have to fix other peoples poorly cut boxes. Interesting product. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Grand Forks N.D.
Posts: 79
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Don,t really need it to fix even bad outlets. Can fix anything with hot mud and glass. But, its still a good product and homeowners and some finishers will buy them. They would be a little expensive working behind Mexican rouge crews and other hanging hacks. If it was me i,d just sell the patent to Trim Tex and work something out with them. Good luck.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 143
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If and when high end work comes back ..... I would sell them as an up grade also. Looks very professional. Send me a case
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Brandon, MB
Posts: 94
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It seems there's always a boarding crew around that prioritizes speed over fit. Your device would likely find appeal with those looking to keep the speed and still finish out with a respectable looking product. Having taped behind a crew like this in the past, I'd be tempted to specify the DC supply something like your mulligan for each miss-cut box, and an adder fee for mudding each one. It has a simplistic appeal. we all know messing around taping miss cut boxes wastes time.
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 143
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Quote:
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 143
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Look how sweet this looks ......
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Western New York
Posts: 135
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 4
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Thank you all for your interest and suggestions. I will talk with the mold designer and bring him the ideas some of you PMed me. Thanks to the moderators for their flexibility in allowing my product to be reviewed.
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#11 |
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Marv
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 7
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I signed up on this forum looking for tips on fixing screwed up electrical box cut outs on my Habitat house. Newbies always wander around with the zip bits while they get the hang of it. This will be the perfect solution. I'll call next week.
Marv |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: glencoe,ontario,can
Posts: 66
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not a bad idea but may be better for stucco (out door)it may create a better weather seal.heavier coating with stucco.It would be way too much mud to flare it out to hide it,just hiding tape on a blown out box bad enough,your product would be like trying to coat over a screw head that's sticking out of a wall,think how much mud that would take to make it level and true
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: glencoe,ontario,can
Posts: 66
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Quote:
-big hole by receptacle (box)1st fire the hanger but if you did it say hole is 2"x2" lay 2 tapes 4 to 5" long over hole,push in on the tapes where the hole is to cause them to recess into the hole,now layer again with more tape and wipe tight.DO NOT COAT IT TILL NEXT DAY,IT MUST DRY 1ST,what you created is a mini sheet of drywall ,mud in between 2 tapes,some call this a "Chinese wall" cause its thin and cheaply made-Chinese wall can be done with mesh and hot muds too,but still let it set before you coat or it will bubble (same as tape)both methods require a fair bit of build out with mud to hide !! -router line easy ,coat with mud,when it dries tap or indent router line with handle of knife or ball been hammer ,coat indent,let dry,then flare or build out till it hides,very little mud used.the burrs the router makes on the drywall now act like little bonding agent,so no tape required .you can use hot muds too -some one moves a box now your left with a hole,pretend hole is 4" x 4",load mud top and bottom of hole,lay 8" tapes (3) and recess into hole 1/2".cut 4"x4" piece of drywall,slap mud on back of drywall,push into hole,lay tapes over top ,let dry before you coat ,like chinese wall but your using drywall instead of mud in between the tape(s).I will call this the CANUCK patch ,very strong ![]() - buffalo patch ,sunshine patch etc,a hanger can explain,only explaining one tapers can do,for canuck patch hanger can cut and leave piece there for you!!! |
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#14 |
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Marv
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 7
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Thanks for the tip. I like the ball peen hammer. Can I use this with screw holes where the screws have been removed?
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