Automatic Taping Tools

19Riggs88

No it varies:

For ceiling spray and knockdown-
1) First I slpit the butts with a 10" box set on "0" or wide open by running the box down each side of the tape with the wheel on the center of the tape...

Note: a box may actually be broken in to leave a lot more mud on "0" so my general rule is that I should only be able to split 2 to 2 1/2 butts before the box is empty. If I am consistantly running out before I can split 2 then the box is leaving too much mud and adjustments are needed. If I am able to split 3 butts then I am not leaving enough mud.

2) Second I coat down the center of the butts with a 12" box set on '1"

Note: set the box so it leaves just enough mud to cover the tape. Sometimes may have to adjust the box to leave more or less mud for each joint.

3) Final step is simply cross off the ends by hand with a 10" knife

For orange peel-
1) Split the butts with a 10" box set on "0"
2) Split the butts again with a 12" box on "0"
3) Coat down the centers of the butts by hand with a 12" knife
4) Cross off the ends of the butts by hand

For smooth-
1) Split the butts with a 10" box set on "0"
2) Run down the center of the butts with a 12" box on "1"
3) Cross off the ends by hand
4) Give the butts a finnish coat by hand

This may sound like more steps but when there are a lot of ceilings or a big job then you really notice how this system makes butts go a lot easier.

Some tips:
When prefilling get in a habit of automatically filling each butt no matter
When wiping the joint tape don't wipe the tape too hard and tight
Always put the box snug tight into the corners before pulling
Try and start and pull off within 2" of the seams recess

Coating butts with a box works great when the seams are wet with a little practice of hitting the brake to pull off within 2" of recess (actual recess and not wet mud out beyond!) without running the wheels into the seam.

Final note: This works for 98% of the butts as there are always the ones that need a little extra work.