Scraping off one texture, and replacing with "knockdown"

 
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Old 06-19-2009, 12:48 AM   #41
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Re: Scraping off one texture, and replacing with "knockdown"


I skim coat by hand with a 12". Can do about 1000sq ft in about 2 hours. With a box you'll leave ridges.

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Old 09-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #42
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Re: Scraping off one texture, and replacing with "knockdown"


dont sand, do not sand, refrain from sanding please. flat paint will sofen up quit nice with water and scrape right off. Enamale paint, ive done a few. I scrape to the to the rock, dry, with a three inch putty knife. do not gouge the paper. scrape it clean. dont sand. finish the joint and nails like any other skim coat. if you caulk the angles it will be real clean looking. If you use spray texture for your knock down it will come out better . Even unagregated texture mud has some ruffness to it that knocks down easier. dont use all purpose unless you just can't get texture.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:12 PM   #43
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Re: Scraping off one texture, and replacing with "knockdown"


Quote:
Originally Posted by OraarO View Post
The rooms have painted acoustic (popcorn) texture now. I plan on scraping the tops off, as much as possible with one or two quick passes. Then skimming on up to two coats, applied horizontal and then vertical to minimize "skipping" over the remaining texture. Once that is sanded close to smooth, applying a knockdown texture by spraying thinned compound and then knocking it down.

Question - Do I need to prime the skim coats so the knockdown texture doesn't "re-activate" the mud that was skimmed on?

Any other tips on doing a job like this? I have a bid I am comfortable with for this, but looking to save time/steps wherever possible.

Thanks.
I think you will do better if you prime before skim coat otherwise if you prime after knockdown or skim coat you would have to paint the ceiling. So you save your money and time on painting ceiling
http://1drywall.com/textures.htm

Last edited by igorson; 10-01-2011 at 02:11 AM.
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