removing texture, wet vs dry? - Page 2 - Drywall Talk - Professional Drywall and Finishing Contractors Forum

miket · 03-19-2010, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wallers

We are on doing this in an entire apartment building right now. And it's painted. Found the ticket!!! Use the pc first (I do agree with you about NOT doing this normally, it is like beating a dead horse, it does NOTHING) BUT, with painted-- Use it! Break the ceiling down a bit, and THEN spray with water! The pc gets all of the larger chunks off, thus making a porous surface for the water to permeate! Then it's GRAVY! But, I will still kilz all of them with an airless before touching up and retexturing. The mud just really doesn't like to stick to the surface after a texture removal!

smart!

edit: the dust did make it more difficult to skim coat, i believe the wet scraped was worse than the pc sanded ceiling when it came to dust, still on the ceiling lol.

Why would you use kilz instead of a cheaper drywall primer when your going to skim coat anyways? A stain blocker isnt needed.

Would you guys recommend a PVA type primer to lock the dust?

miket · 03-19-2010, 11:34 AM

I blame my father for doing the large ceiling with the PC sander. I recomended we try a little of both first to see how it worked but he picked the sander and went with that.

We did the small bathroom dry because we were afraid of messing up the old paper wallpaper with all the water. He closed the door and scraped and sanded for a half hour. I waited 10 min for the dust to settle then i cleaned for another half hour.

In the third medium sized room he scraped the ceiling wet, he said it created alot less mess and was so much easier!
I did notice that wet scraping pulls more compound out of screw holes and such.

Edges are brutal. As you go toward the edge the last couple inches slope down a bit and then teh last 1/2"-1/4" goes way up so theres a slight ridge and then a gap. The tape paper is showing of course. Its not really consistent in the other direction either as the celing line waves up and down along the wall. The corners are just um weird. And then i have to bring down and straighten the ceiling line while preserving the wallpaper lol. Theres lots of bows and dips in that celing too.

edit: still glad i have the pc sander for sanding the skimcoat.

miket · 03-19-2010, 11:48 AM

I am definitely a fan of 20-90 minute hot mud for anything deep. I hate shrinkage and also heat guns lol.

Whats the difference between topping mud and usg all purpose? Do you guys add soap to your mud? I saw lafarge rapid coat at lowes, how does that stuff compare?

A+ Texture LLC · 03-19-2010, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wallers

Has anyone tried one of those popcorn scrapers that you hang a baggie from to catch the texture as it falls? Looks like a pain to me, just wondering.

Yes, but it gets to heavy and a lot falls on the floor anyway, I break the bag thing off. As for the PC it's a waste of time. Take a manly floor scraper and knock the "tips" off and then the water can penatrate it. Garden sprayers suck, a hose works better but it does look really unprofessional. A customer doesn't want to see that. Use an airless paint sprayer with hot water at about half pressure.

miket · 03-19-2010, 12:07 PM

We did way too many touch ups, way too many times on the big ceiling so we skim coated the other ceilings.
Thats neat that you can spray a high build primer and backroll to get level 5. I assume you need to start with quality level 4 first lol.

How do you guys apply skim coat mud? Trowel like the plaster guys, roll it,some box thing, or spray it?

How do you smooth it, wide trowel, knife or squeege?

Does you technique change between;
regular Old walls that have lots of minor imperfections and some roughness but are in good shape.
Really damaged and rough gouged wallboard from bad wallpaper removal.(had to deal with that upstairs)
Ceilings that are flat but rough from remnants of scraped heavily painted popcorn texture.
Ceilings that are now scraped smooth but were poorly rocked and bow hollow and wave alot making things more diffiult.

miket · 03-19-2010, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A+ Texture LLC

Yes, but it gets to heavy and a lot falls on the floor anyway, I break the bag thing off. As for the PC it's a waste of time. Take a manly floor scraper and knock the "tips" off and then the water can penatrate it. Garden sprayers suck, a hose works better but it does look really unprofessional. A customer doesn't want to see that. Use an airless paint sprayer with hot water at about half pressure.

I think that would work unless the texture has a whole lot of coats of paint which ive run into on occasion. Garden sprayer makes sense for wallpaper removal in a small bathroom, or for spraying bleach to kill mildew, but for a large ceilign thats going to be sprayed with an airless anywyays that makes alot of sense. Enough sense you can probably hear me slap my forhead from over there lol. What size tip do you use for water? Biggest tip i have in my box right now is 519.

edit; Id never use a garden hose in house lol, but ive heard on the internets that the kind with the plastic male threaded ends dont cut or mess up the rubber washers and cause leaks as fast as the cheap sheet metal male threaded end kind.

A+ Texture LLC · 03-20-2010, 12:34 PM

It will still work if it's been painted a few times. Taking the floor scraper knocks the tips of so the water can penatrate it. I use to use a 415 but help chucked it by accident. Right now I've been using a 515.

betterdrywall · 05-04-2010, 08:24 AM

I just use my airless to wet the ceilings down, If there is wave's or dips, smaller knifes help prevent damage to the paper face of the board. I take my time and scrape as clean as possible. Then sand with PC.

Axecutioner-B · 05-04-2010, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alltex

I put this on here once before and got mixed opinions.We have done this many times with good results. First put 2 inch tape around the top of wall then coverfloor with plastic up to walls.tape the seams in plastic real good and tite then hang lite wieght plastic on the walls so it overlaps on the floor.don,t tape walls to floor.Now pop a staple every 4 or 5 ft. in the wall tape so it won,t fall when wet. now get you garden hose hand wet it down let it soak a while and hit it agin ( don,t worry the accutic will sop up the water) .Now the stuff will scrape off easy with a wide knife or even a floor scraper.(if not painted).we have scraped and touched up one day and retexured the next many times.No dust exept if you sand your touch up.Think what you wan,t ,but it works!!

This is what we did to get rid of the popcorn in my house & it worked great !! We tried using a little pump sprayer & it just didnt get it done so we grabbed a garden hose & misted the whole ceiling... & voila! Worked real good IMO

03-19-2010, 11:34 AM	#22
miket Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: ct Posts: 27	I blame my father for doing the large ceiling with the PC sander. I recomended we try a little of both first to see how it worked but he picked the sander and went with that. We did the small bathroom dry because we were afraid of messing up the old paper wallpaper with all the water. He closed the door and scraped and sanded for a half hour. I waited 10 min for the dust to settle then i cleaned for another half hour. In the third medium sized room he scraped the ceiling wet, he said it created alot less mess and was so much easier! I did notice that wet scraping pulls more compound out of screw holes and such. Edges are brutal. As you go toward the edge the last couple inches slope down a bit and then teh last 1/2"-1/4" goes way up so theres a slight ridge and then a gap. The tape paper is showing of course. Its not really consistent in the other direction either as the celing line waves up and down along the wall. The corners are just um weird. And then i have to bring down and straighten the ceiling line while preserving the wallpaper lol. Theres lots of bows and dips in that celing too. edit: still glad i have the pc sander for sanding the skimcoat. Last edited by miket; 03-19-2010 at 11:48 AM.

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03-19-2010, 11:48 AM	#23
miket Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: ct Posts: 27	I am definitely a fan of 20-90 minute hot mud for anything deep. I hate shrinkage and also heat guns lol. Whats the difference between topping mud and usg all purpose? Do you guys add soap to your mud? I saw lafarge rapid coat at lowes, how does that stuff compare?

03-19-2010, 12:07 PM	#25
miket Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: ct Posts: 27	We did way too many touch ups, way too many times on the big ceiling so we skim coated the other ceilings. Thats neat that you can spray a high build primer and backroll to get level 5. I assume you need to start with quality level 4 first lol. How do you guys apply skim coat mud? Trowel like the plaster guys, roll it,some box thing, or spray it? How do you smooth it, wide trowel, knife or squeege? Does you technique change between; regular Old walls that have lots of minor imperfections and some roughness but are in good shape. Really damaged and rough gouged wallboard from bad wallpaper removal.(had to deal with that upstairs) Ceilings that are flat but rough from remnants of scraped heavily painted popcorn texture. Ceilings that are now scraped smooth but were poorly rocked and bow hollow and wave alot making things more diffiult.

03-20-2010, 12:34 PM	#27
A+ Texture LLC Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sierra Vista, AZ Posts: 397	It will still work if it's been painted a few times. Taking the floor scraper knocks the tips of so the water can penatrate it. I use to use a 415 but help chucked it by accident. Right now I've been using a 515.

05-04-2010, 08:24 AM	#28
betterdrywall Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: oklahoma Posts: 63	I just use my airless to wet the ceilings down, If there is wave's or dips, smaller knifes help prevent damage to the paper face of the board. I take my time and scrape as clean as possible. Then sand with PC.