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Old 11-04-2011, 10:08 PM   #61
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Re: Level 5


you should chime in more often FabFour

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Old 11-04-2011, 10:12 PM   #62
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Re: Level 5


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Update: Break out a pole sander and brush down the primer after it's dry and you will be amazed how good your level 5 finish will look after the finish paint is on. I'm 61 years old and a second generation drywaller I have well over 45 years experience. Started working for my dad when I was 13 years old at one dollar per hr. Oh, anyone need a good commercial estimator?
Good advice FabFour...I've always been impressed with just how slick a prime coat turns out when it's been sanded. Found that out when we would go back through to check for fuzz on no-back-roll prime jobs.
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:48 AM   #63
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Re: Level 5


yes and no. Yes the sanded paper will fuzz (nap) up when spray painted. Paper fiber swells up like a sponge and dry’s that way. Can be really bad on smooth, also shows through orange peel and even makes knockdown look funny. Can look like grit is in the mud.

But whose job is it to sand it down after the primer is on? I say the painter. We tape and sand, they prime and paint. If they want to save money not paying someone to back roll as they prime then they can sand it before finish color paint. Their choice when THEY deal with it. If they say is is my fault then they need to go back to paint school. Problem is all the painter know all the builders believe anything painters say, and nothing tapers say.

Painters have gone so far as to say we spray texture that is to dry! As though is is powdery, or gritty. What a joke. A lot of fuzz only means someone sanded a lot to make sure the mud edges blended to the board.
Here a lot of painter shoots one coat high build, no primer and walk away without back rolling. Guaranteed bad job. They always blame the taper.
Flashing, photographing etc., comes from the differing smoothness

between the slick mud surface and the rougher surface on board. Look at the different brands and you will see some are indented with zillions of dimples. Some are smooth. That is why level 5 is meant to skim the whole board with mud. Then it all has the same light reflectance.
Spray over level 4 does not fill the paper dimples. Only if you wipe it smooth.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:10 PM   #64
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Re: Level 5


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yes and no. Yes the sanded paper will fuzz (nap) up when spray painted. Paper fiber swells up like a sponge and dry’s that way. Can be really bad on smooth, also shows through orange peel and even makes knockdown look funny. Can look like grit is in the mud.

But whose job is it to sand it down after the primer is on? I say the painter. We tape and sand, they prime and paint. If they want to save money not paying someone to back roll as they prime then they can sand it before finish color paint. Their choice when THEY deal with it. If they say is is my fault then they need to go back to paint school. Problem is all the painter know all the builders believe anything painters say, and nothing tapers say.

Painters have gone so far as to say we spray texture that is to dry! As though is is powdery, or gritty. What a joke. A lot of fuzz only means someone sanded a lot to make sure the mud edges blended to the board.
Here a lot of painter shoots one coat high build, no primer and walk away without back rolling. Guaranteed bad job. They always blame the taper.
Flashing, photographing etc., comes from the differing smoothness

between the slick mud surface and the rougher surface on board. Look at the different brands and you will see some are indented with zillions of dimples. Some are smooth. That is why level 5 is meant to skim the whole board with mud. Then it all has the same light reflectance.
Spray over level 4 does not fill the paper dimples. Only if you wipe it smooth.
I've primed more jobs than I can count. I always back roll. Even with back rolling the Highbuild/primer should be pole sanded before the finish paint is applied. Back when I was just a lad, the paper on sheet rock was smooth and firm. Now all sheet rock has recycled paper and it's softer and fuzzes up very easy when sanded. That's why we should always sand the primer before applying the finish paint. If I don't sand the primer I always tell the painters to brush it down. Most do, some don't. You can't control everything and information is the most important tool you have. Make sure that your General Contractor is educated on the subject. We have a ton of tech info to back us up. Make sure you use it. ie: GA216

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Old 11-06-2011, 05:40 PM   #65
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Re: Level 5


it also helps to wet sponge walls after final sand before prime where paper and mud meet
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:19 PM   #66
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Re: Level 5


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwjzlSoa_Rs"]Discover two ways to achieve a level 5 finish - YouTube[/ame]

Last edited by moore; 05-26-2012 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:57 PM   #67
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Re: Level 5


Nobody ever wants L5 around here. They just complain that the finisher did a bad job when they paint with gloss, semigloss or eggshell.
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:05 PM   #68
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Re: Level 5


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Nobody ever wants L5 around here. They just complain that the finisher did a bad job when they paint with gloss, semigloss or eggshell.
Same here!
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:51 PM   #69
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Re: Level 5


Yeah, I agree,, we did some level5 a few years back,,,(I like the tough hide, but black lid works okay too),but then we got hope and change, and now we just seem to get the dura-bond-get-it-done-in-one-day jobs.
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:39 AM   #70
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Re: Level 5


I do a L5 on all painted ceilings weather they ask for it or not.
It's in my price. It's my ceiling.
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:00 AM   #71
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Re: Level 5


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I do a L5 on all painted ceilings weather they ask for it or not.
It's in my price. It's my ceiling.
Man your fussy, Or as you say your boards total crap, Its all painted smooth ceilings here, A good level 4 and a good paint is enough, Oh, Your painters suck as well. Honestly though, Unless it has the worst critical light accross it then ceilings are more of a dead spot for us, Not much light gets accross them, And if its all downlights even better, They dont shine any light accross the ceiling. But we do build boring easy houses here, Nothing like what you have to deal with.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:03 PM   #72
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Re: Level 5


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Man your fussy, Or as you say your boards total crap, Its all painted smooth ceilings here, A good level 4 and a good paint is enough, Oh, Your painters suck as well. Honestly though, Unless it has the worst critical light accross it then ceilings are more of a dead spot for us, Not much light gets accross them, And if its all downlights even better, They dont shine any light accross the ceiling. But we do build boring easy houses here, Nothing like what you have to deal with.
Half the time..[these days] I don't know who's coming in behind me. so I atleast want the ceilings to look decent.
I agree ..A good level 4 finish and a sealer/prime before paint is all thats needed.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:41 PM   #73
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Re: Level 5


Why skim over the entire ceiling? If the seams and butts are DONE..Theres no need in going over them again .

Skim /roll-n-wipe only the field. Cut the edges tight then buff the edges when they dry.

Not sure what to tell you spray guys...?? add more water to your mix to saturate the board with moisture ? That always ends well.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:11 PM   #74
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Re: Level 5


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it also helps to wet sponge walls after final sand before prime where paper and mud meet
i dont use a damp sponge after sanding anymore. With all the recycled paper out there i just use my shop vac as a blower. Lightly hitting the field then angles. Spray on full blast with a good back roll with a 1/2 nap roller. When dry sand with 150 to remove any dirt or debris from boxes , cans, etc..... I use preprite 200 from SWP. Great product for wood or drywall. Walls should look completey covered and after a light scuff should feel like a babies bottom.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:17 PM   #75
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Re: Level 5


[QUOTE=moore;77349]Why skim over the entire ceiling? If the seams and butts are DONE..Theres no need in going over them again .

Skim /roll-n-wipe only the field. Cut the edges tight then buff the edges when they dry.

]
Good point. Kinda a waste to skim something thats should aleready be done. Also saves by not having to bag everything off. 2 guys 1 rolling ot on another wipingand you can easily do a house in a day. Of course I dont hit the closets, laundry rooms and stuff covered by cabinets. I always give the option in my bids but lately its just been level 4 and make it perfect.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:25 PM   #76
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lately its just been level 4 and make it perfect.
The job I'm on now, the builder asked for a 3 and a 1/2

I told him "I'm sorry, but it looks like you're getting a 3.875

It would have been a 4, but it's an old house and there's no room in the budget for walls made of mud.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:37 PM   #77
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Re: Level 5


Some pics of the job that turned into a L5. Very critical lighting. Window is 20 plus feet high with not even 1" reveal of trim on wall When noon hits it was a pretty scary sight. These walls are some of the hardest Ive done in many years
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:16 AM   #78
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Re: Level 5


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Some pics of the job that turned into a L5. Very critical lighting. Window is 20 plus feet high with not even 1" reveal of trim on wall When noon hits it was a pretty scary sight. These walls are some of the hardest Ive done in many years
Nice job, L5 can really suck on the jobs with big windows. The reflection off the snow really doesn't help a guy out either. Gotta love taping in shorts in the middle of winter lol. My favorite is sweating my a** off and slamming a cold coke in front of a window when the siders or roofers are working outside in the cold.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:49 PM   #79
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Nice job, L5 can really suck on the jobs with big windows. The reflection off the snow really doesn't help a guy out either. Gotta love taping in shorts in the middle of winter lol. My favorite is sweating my a** off and slamming a cold coke in front of a window when the siders or roofers are working outside in the cold.
If It's too cold to wear shorts. It's too cold to finish sheetrock!
I love that sayin Chris!!
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:56 PM   #80
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Some pics of the job that turned into a L5. Very critical lighting. Window is 20 plus feet high with not even 1" reveal of trim on wall When noon hits it was a pretty scary sight. These walls are some of the hardest Ive done in many years
black poly over the windows . Cut gods light out!
Then a 500 watt halogen will tell the whole story.
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