Level 5

OLDSKOOL TAPER

Over here you only ever see joint cement on skimmed walls,if they have had a rubbish plasterer,by which time it to late cos it's been painted with a high sheen paint finish,We don't have the level 1-5 finish system over here, though ithink it would be a good thing, we've been asked to sort out quite a few taping jobs where clients are happy with the finish,most range from mud being applied with a catapult to walls that look like you would need crampons to scale the joint or the classic"one coat fits all"and these so called tapers have been paid top $ for the job,over here they will have taping till somebody does a crap job,then they go back to skimming,then when somebody ball's that job up they go back to taping.Our level 5 equivalent would be 8-10-12 box, a loving sand, check for dents and scratches with a halogen light then 1-2 coats of sealer.

MudSlinger777

Hey guys new here to the site noticed ur concern about skimming mud over a painted surface. Several issues come up is it smooth with paint? is it oil base or is it water base paint. Part of the problem is grip and adhesion of skim coat. I do alot of this type of stuff especially in kitchens and baths where typically walls are smooth, at least here in california lol. If I have a smooth surface I will roll bonder plaster adhesive on the wall then ad 2 cups to My all purpuse mud with maybe a lil water if needed to . Then skim the wall out. lightly sand and tight skim again sand then use a light to touch up. If you have oil base paint on a surface either textured or smooth u must sand once over with 80Grit spand paper then oil base primer it then u can pour a bit of bonder adhesive in ur mud and skim. Do not use bonder adhesive in ur final coat of mud as it makes it more diffaclut to sand. Also alow significant time for drying. To much mud with out proper curing time can cause it to not stick and then well it call all fall down Trust Me I learned the hard way lol

1wallboardsman

The best surfacer for drywall period.

jdl

caseysbuilding

I always used a roller for a level 5. If you are good a level 4 is all that is needed.http://www.caseysbuilding.com

Rapidjoint90

Lafarge Gypsum has a level 5 drywall. Paper is already embedded with joint compound. This product is Unreal, I use it on all of my ceilings and critical light areas. It's faster and cheaper and 10 times better than hand applied level 5.

Tim0282

Are the edges tapered like typical rock? And do you finish it the same? Sounds like a good deal.

silverstilts

Same factory edges although once you spot the screws they blend in with the rock more and patches you have to watch a little closer so you don't miss stuff that was only one coated other than the obvious . Other than that it is nice to work with...

Tim0282

Use Never Miss to mud it. One ounce in a five makes the mud yellow and real easy to see and it helps stop joint flash! Great stuff! We use it in all our skim coat mud. Quick look around the room and if it's not yellow it hasn't been skimmed. I will check into the already skimmed rock. Is it heavier?

Aeuja

I have been taping for years , my first problem with class 5ing a wall with direct sunlight. Troweled & rolled, still flashes bad. Need some input please.

smisner50s

first off make sure your level 4 finish is perfect and sanded perfect...you can roll it on and pull it back off leaving a little bit on ....spray a l5 surficier primer ...of if you have a good sprayer just thin down some mud and skim the whole wall with joint compound..cross hatching building it up in multi coats...

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Hybrid Hand Machine Taping Man

Aeuja

Thx. Here is the situation. Been class 5'd with trowel, sanded with light, primed & then when sunlight cAme in, it sucked. It has been rolled with no change and again coated. Sunlight still picks up all the flashing. In a house where all trades are overlapping since day one. Losing my mind. Would like to spray on but too much millwork around. Any suggestions? Thx

smisner50s

either poor quality in products...or poor quality in craftsmanship...that what it boils down to ..mask off everything good and spray...some guys can never achive a good level 5...and some guys.l4 looks level 5

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Hybrid Hand Machine Taping Man

Aeuja

thanks, the problem has been too many tapers overlapping each others work and that never works

Tim0282

We have been spraying Never/Miss Final coat. It is amazing stuff.
Completely takes care of the flashing. Spray with a Titan 1200SF. Mix the mud between box and angle mud. Sprays like a dream.
Don't sand it or touch it after spraying. Lays down very nice!

smisner50s

Thanks...im gonna order some up...sucks nobody stocks it around here..I got a new mark 4

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Hybrid Hand Machine Taping Man

Aeuja

my boss is using level 5 coat by hamilton in a 5 gallon pail. is this a product you mix with the mud and then spray on?

Tim0282

No. You probably won't want to mix this with mud. I've tried that sort of thing. Doesn't work very good.
Use Never/Miss Final Coat to mix with the mud.

ChicagoTaper215

With all due respect to all the old schoolers, I think level 5 is a waste of time. I paint my own jobs and have never been called back to fix a butt joint cuz it's flashing after the primer? How many of you guys prime your own jobs and still see imperfections, flashing? There is a simple solution to all that so called "flashing"... I've seen it at other jobs that I had to go fix.....

2buckcanuck

Actually, I think most of the old schoolers would agree with you

But one reason your having no problems is because your doing your own painting, meaning your doing it right.Some painters think mixing all their left over flat paint makes for a good primer, will be one point ill make. I don't see no need to do a whole house in level 5, maybe on the rare occasion where theres critical lighting. But a proper level 4 tape job and a PROFESSIONAL painter should be good enough.

But in commercial there is a need some times, say like a dentist's room, they need the best lighting possible, so their looking for high gloss walls and something that is washable. So level 5 is the best solution in those cases.

Just my 2bucks worth

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ChicagoTaper215

your right. Alot of painters do mix their leftover but I would never unless it's a custom color. Flat paint is all you need, for example... Today I finished bout 50 sheets. Sanded, and sprayed with my sprayer. Used sherwin-Williams CHB flat for ceilings. Used it as a primer as well and man was the homeowner pleased, he was trying to have me use new drywall primer from HD but when I explained to him about why CHB was better he saw the difference. He is in the trades as well and knows a thing or 2 about butt joints, flashing, etc. Going to paint the colors they chose and will take pics and post them on here before and after. Oh yeah...commercial is another story but your right on that one 2buck....ur the man!