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taping with all purpose mud

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mud
30K views 65 replies 31 participants last post by  DjZombeat89 
#1 ·
i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.
 
#2 ·
I can't speak for synko, but can you get pro roc mud where you are. I think you can
All purpose is what it says, you can tape,coat and skim with it, It's a middle ground mud. It should be the other way around with what your describing
 
#3 ·
It shouldnt really cause edges cracks etc, And yes you do need to use the same mud all purpose mud for taping corners with the zooka when going bigger head then smaller, I was doin it that way, but now i have found a much better way which i really like, finally im happy with machine corners :thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
On small jobs I'd use all purpose only and the work turned out fine. I've also used all purpose for taping all my angles because someone on this site said it shrank back less than taping, and turns out it's true. But lately I've stuck with taping mud for taping and filling mud for filling. The size of the job kinda demands it.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I've found that Synko yellow IS needed just for the reasons you mentioned. The fact that the Synko (yellow and all purpose) come out of the box like a chunk of cold butter leads us to add quite a bit of water to soften it up for machines. Yellow seems to have more glue in it as advertised and withstands more water than all purpose without degrading its' performance. My advice - stay away from Stynko.:D ProRoc is much nicer to use. Less water and less elbow grease. But still use yellow taping for security and piece of mind.

Yellow can be used in machines with no problem. And most tapers lay their angle tape with a 2.5" flusher and then finish with a 3". That routine covers the angle completely leaving no yellow mud to sand.

All purpose works all the way through but you must be diligent. I do it many times too !
 
#11 ·
My advice - stay away from Stynko.:D ProRoc is much nicer to use. Less water and less elbow grease. But still use yellow taping for security and piece of mind.
YEEAHHHHHHH!!

Proroc yellow creates such a strong bond with the wall, you'll remember never to miss wiping any tapes. :D And clean your boogers off the wall before they dry. The mud will delaminate the board paper if you scrape it off.

I think you can use as much water as with Synko muds. The difference I find is that ProRoc will never get as runny. It seems to stand up better when you thin it down so that you'll always have some glue on your tapes.
 
#12 ·
i think i figured out my problem. i've been doing a lot of smallerjobs and they have all been hung by carpenters so i have been doing a lot of pre fill with confill. i have then been taping over it after it sets but it is not dry. the job i taped out last night i went and coated today and i did not have any problems because i prefilled two nights ago so my prefill had a chance to dry. the only bubbles i got were a couple on the beads probably from using my new corner applicator and not leaving quite enough mud on. no biggie just a little fix. i used to always tape over my wet prefill when i was using taping mud but that was on bigger jobs. i can get proroc but not from anywhere super convinient so i would have to stock up on it every time. the last time i used proroc i was one box short and i went and picked up some synko from rona for touchups and i got really bad ridges from the slightly different consistancies. i had to wait until it was primed and then touch up some stuff. it sucked. proroc blue does seem way harder to sand than synko blue so i would imagine it might have a bit more glue in it.
 
#27 ·
i HATE it. and i now remember exactly why i never liked it. no matter how hard i try i cannot mix the bubbles out of it. more mixing, less mixing same result. it pocks like crazy:furious: it is taking me at least one or two more passes over it to get the pocks and fisheyes out which adds up to a lot of time. any faithful proroc users have any suggestions? i still have five more boxes of frustration to use.
 
#30 ·
pro form/ usg a/p . I hate it too. thanxs to ds john .. I looked up no-pocs
at all wall. ordered 4 bottles.. worth a try. I do the same.. extra skim over
seams/butts/bead.. sand the :censored:out of the angles.. more time means
less $$$! never liked the pro rock mud or rock, but if your like me we use what the g/c or local supply sends. dig up some red clay,, throw it in a bucket,,, can't be any worse than some of the many a/p out there now.:D
 
#31 ·
i'm going to try hamiltons AP next. they have a supplier about five minutes away from me. they don't really do small sales. just to big drywall suppliers in the area but the guy said he would sell me some. $12 a box before tax. everything else around here is $18ish a box. i might just buy a pallet and mark up every box i use if i like the stuff. i don't think i'll be using proroc again. i'm still on my search for my favourite AP.
 
#32 ·
Hamilton is pretty good, but I prefer Beadex Light muds. USG makes Beadex, but it's not the same USG mud that you see at Home Depot.

There are ways around the complaints centered around using light muds, if you've got a good system you can avoid "layering/onion skin" that comes about when sanding. I love coating with Beadex light topping (and no, I do not have an affiliation with USG). Hamilton is probably the next best, at least in my book.
 
#36 ·
One thing i have noticed with proform is that blue steel knives just dont cut it. Stainless is the only way to go. Also when mixing if ya spin it to fast it will create air bubbles. I am hooked on my advanced tools mixer and my cordless drill (creamy). Also I always use bottled water from Stewarts, or poland springs. Distilled water would be best but that might be getting carried away. Water also makes a huge difference in dry time with your hot muds. Even in less then ideal conditions. Just make sure its luke warm.
 
#39 ·
bringing this one back to life. i bought some beadex all purpose when i was down in the states last week. it was mid weight at least. those little square boxes were HEAVY. i have never seen anything other than lite mud before. noticable differance. i decided to use it for my bed and finish coats. NEVER AGAIN!!!!! i have never had to sand so hard in my life:eek:. mid weight muds are another beast. thank god it was a garage because i got pissed off and stopped trying to sand out things i usually would. the one thing i would say is it makes an awesome taping mud. better than our lite taping muds. but it really was heavy. it is also what i tried to use in my bazooka for the first time. why not make a hard thing even more difficult right:thumbup:
our lite all purose is like a topping mud compared to that.
 
#40 ·
:lol:Here carpenter I get pro form a/p,and USG a/p ,, DENSE ,, very hard to sand. :yes:. Pocs,,scratches , hard to sand.. I catch hell for my over kill ,but that's what it takes for me to not kill myself on sand day. Tapers here will not tape with the gray USG,,only the white,,, The gray USG has a poor bond ,and takes FOREVER to dry,,and gummy.


Gray@white ..... The limestone In the northern states white.
The limestone in the southern states gray.

A N/G rep told me this years ago. How true it is ,,not sure.:blink:
I do know the whiter the stronger,and drys much faster.

The gray Is great for stipple/tex ...covers,,and hides well.
This is just my opinion guys,,,Don't throw me under the bus.
 
#45 ·
could'nt Imagine

I could not imagine using all purpose mud to tape and yes that is what happens, it cracks,

As for the Big head first, I think that is F&*k$d up and no I have never done it that way and never would, 2.5 and then 3.5 makes way more cents (Pun intended)
 
#46 ·
I could not imagine using all purpose mud to tape and yes that is what happens, it cracks,

As for the Big head first, I think that is F&*k$d up and no I have never done it that way and never would, 2.5 and then 3.5 makes way more cents (Pun intended)
:eek: Did you just bash other peoples' methods....with out trying it? LOOK OUT and take cover everyone!! :gunsmilie:
 
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