New home construction. Taping

ryanh

When you repair cracked butt joints or seams after the board has been painted, what steps do you tape?

When you just mud up some scratchs on a wall that has been primed and one coat of paint. can you just patch and sand and paint over, or can you just prime the patched spot. wait for dry then paint the whole wall ?

roominaday

In this case the cracks and crowning were from truss up-lift. I re-taped all cracks and finished to a level 4. I have taken a 2" paint scraper and made a channel for the tape to avoid a large build-up as well. I used a self priming ceiling paint from BM and spot primed the repairs with this paint, then cut and rolled 600 square feet of open concept ceiling twice!

Anytime you mud a painted wall (dents, dings, scratches etc) you should spot prime each one or it will flash in the finish. I would love to find a non flashing patching compound! Sometimes, you will get lots of air bubbles in the mud on a painted finish. They will slowly dissipate with each coat.
If its a low sheen paint sometimes you can get away with touching it up with a roller, but I am too fusy and usually I am better off taking the time to roll the whole wall section out. Some of the higher end paints and flat builders paints touch up fairly well - depends on the lighting, colour, sheen etc. I always paint the primed patches, then hit the whole wall if required.

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Jeff Huff
Room In A Day
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ryanh

I had someone show me a slight crack they had on there flat ceiling. I coud tell from measurements it was a seam. Ceiling drywall was installed opposide to the way the trusts run.. so theres not consent backing there. It was the only crack. maybe 3 1/2 feet long out of 10' span. was wondering if just a coat of mud would work. so rip out the tape and remud 3 times

roominaday

If you just fill the crack, it will more than likely crack again. The best way is to re-tape.

I'd use mesh with 3 coats of fast set..add some heat and fans, spot prime and roll the ceiling and the room would become... Room In A Day! I could make some good money on that repair!

Or...search Tapeless mud called Vario in these threads and see if you can get a sample! This product looks very promising.

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Jeff Huff
Room In A Day
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ryanh

Im worried about taking the tape down. I think from the look of it the beveled edge of the 2 sheets run down and have 2 pot lights right in the center of the seam so im assuming since they are insulated pot lights that they are boxed in under that drywall and theres nothing to nail the seam too between the lights

Capt-sheetrock

He has a problem with CRACKS, why would you use mesh tape,,,

Fix a crack with a product that is GARUNTEED to crack,,,,,

Yeah, that makes sense !!

roominaday

I don't entirely disagree with your statement. I use mesh and paper and agree paper is much stronger than mesh. Properly applied, I have success with both. After the paper/mesh thread I am evaluating my use of it (mesh).

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Room In A Day
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Saul_Surfaces

I've had great luck using the Straightflex tape on problem seams. I've seen it used on homes that have been moved (like down a highway), and it stands up pretty nice. The paper's all cracked before the straightflex fails. It keeps me from getting called back for seams that have been rocked poorly by HO's too. Trouble is that its so thick. You have to feather the mud a long, long way to hide it nice.

Capt-sheetrock

Your right about striaght-flex, its tough,,,

You need to run it all the way to the middle, just like doing any other corner. when you do; a 5" knive will cover it just like paper tape. If you are trying to "get by" by using the manufacturers "reccomended" way of just swipeing the edges, it will dissapoint you.

McDusty

last year I was rushed by the GC into taping a few condo townhouses in the boom season before the ski hill was about to open. They hadn't blown in the lids yet((did it after 3 days after i started)... they where heating the place with giant workplace diesel heaters (VERY humid heat)... it was completely F*CKED. To make matters worse, the painter came in... primered & tried coating in same day. EVERYTHING was flashing through and swelling up like a fat kid on halloween. The only reason it was 'drying' between coats was because it was completely baking in there... with diesel heat.

Painter called me on the Saturday that he was doing it, some kind of emergency. I show up and am run down the scenario for him and give him a piece of my mind. To this day I don't know how I didn't get insane call-backs on that.

S&SDRYWALL

no furnace no tape. propane/diesel heaters are to humid, do it the right way, the first time

pipercub17

i always say to the builders i work for. no heat no mud

roominaday said
. I would love to find a non flashing patching compound

well there are a few products that dap makes
i like this one the best and it wont flash on ya

http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...41&SubcatID=23

and this one http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...42&SubcatID=23

i use alot of this for bigger repairs too but this one might flash on ya

http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...23&SubcatID=20

and you can speed up the drying time with a heat gun or a fan

jackleg

to repair cracks, dig down into the mud... completely remove existing tape... scape away loose mud.... retape...

FOR THOSE ABOUT

The DryDex piper mentions is some good stuff. I use it for touch up. Don't be fooled by it's sissy color...it dries white. That no heat thing is how I orginally found this forum and a real PITA. Being from Florida I never had to deal with it prior to arriving in Maine. Just did a Freebie job for Habitat for Humanity. They had heat. Keeped the house cranked up to 70. Doesn't make a whole lotta sense to me when some one is building a million dollar home with 450+ boards and they don't want to do it right the fact that one of the parents 'IS' the local plumber just throws reason right out the door.

ryanh

What about screw pops.

Finally got the HVAC going. Winter is over and the house is now properly heated. Lumbar is drying/shrinking and between putting the outlet faceplates on and the high heat a few screw pops are popping up.

Whats the best way to do with these when final paint coat has already been applied?? scrap/remud/sand/prime and repaint whole wall ??

any tricks ??

jmr

a dummy furnace or pod heaters should be set up by the builder.. otherwise i would not warrentee ****! non the less tape in anything below 50 degrees.

taper71

And what may I ask does this have anything to do with the topic??? Are you just a cheap builder resorting to free advertising now?

JustMe

....

SlimPickins

What's the finish? If it's smooth it'll be tricky to make it blend, but shouldn't be too tough as long as you keep your mud as minimal as possible. Sand touch ups well, wet sponge away as much mud as you can around the pop. It will be much harder to spot a paint touch-up the size of a dime than it will to see one a roller width wide.

SlimPickins

Nevermind, you were asking 8 months ago....hopefully you've got it taken care of by now!