jake

after you run your tape on the joints, how many coats do you put on, and what sizes of boxes should be used. and id also like to know how to close my old thread.

Muddauber

After tape, I run 3 coats for smooth finish.

8" 10" 12"

Bevelation

Just 2 coats. 10" and 12" just on flats. To tell you the truth, it doesn't take much more time to skip the 12" and hand bomb the polish coat (2 man team).

The only time I find 3 coats are needed is if the bead needs a lot of fill. I just 5" a coat of joint by hand.

brdn_drywall

bevelation i go 10 and 12 on ceiling flats (good enough for texture) 10 inch on wall flats then spray a 20 inch coat (graco mark iv) with a tight wipe.
when you skip the 12" box coat for a handbomb polish coat how wide do you go.
(since adopting this system touchups on flats are very rare).

Bevelation

^We've been doing all wood frame multi-family units lately. Whether it's double layer of 5/8ths on the 4th floor or screwed off onto soundbar, the lids are never perfect.
We just handbomb trowel width, either 12 or 14. Really easy to do over a 10.
When we have to, we double wide another coat an hour or so after the polish has a chance to set up.
It'd be nice to score a Graco sprayer, but I'm not sure with this economy if I'll have to start pushing a lawnmower for a living in the next few months.

brdn_drywall

yeah when the economy gets better, and profits increase ya shoud get one, nothings better for skimming and level 5ing with mud,since my company is growing and were getting busier with large apartment blocks this winter i will be ordering a second.

FOR THOSE ABOUT

New to site...I guess my question is directed towards brdn drywall...can you explain your process for skimming joints...we usually use the 7" 10" and 12" then "toss-off" (fill in between coats). Are you wiping after you spray if so with what? If not what size tip? We just purchased the Mark V to spray level 5. We finished to level 4 then sprayed to level 5 using Builders Solution (SW product) or Tuff Hide Primer/Surfacer (USG). Never sprayed mud on joints...new to this arena...is it that much of a time saver? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill

brdn_drywall

try this at least once before dismissing my suggestion. skip your 7" box coat and go straight to your 10"(set on #3) load up all flats,load bead and butts, for next coat give a quik rough sand edges and overlap only then spray everything (butts, bead, flats)with a 6" edge overlap (on bead spray a bit heavier on first 4 inchs) mud should be about as thin as bazooka mud(a seven-11 double gulp cup if stiff mud 1.5) mud has to be really clean or yull be reversing your tip and unclogging every couple of mins. this system is only effective with a mixer (always mixing and maintaining mud levels for mark iv) a couple of wipers because once you get going yull fly through the rooms quikly. also you have to devellop the right wiping tecnique taking off edge and smoothing mud not taking it all off the sprayer injects all pock (fisheyes) as well. you may also need a wider tip but try the on it came with if yur not gettin enough coverage go to yur paint store and order one. I usually just box my ceilings with a 12 instead of spraying though saves time and deficencies are covered by texture anyway.for a level 5 sand wall(s) and spray it all out go slow but steady and overlap yur spray fan about 75% (don't worry about initial spray lines they'll self level out,it'll dry like a fine orange peal but quiklly sands up smooth.
p.s. spray a bit heavier for level 4 until you get the hang of it.

FOR THOSE ABOUT

Thanks Bro...be in touch...P.S.S. my babe/partner has a question

FOR THOSE ABOUT

Not dissing you...was not impressed with the surfacers claim to covering minor surface imperfections. Wondering why we just spent 4700.00 a machine that can not fill in minor surace inperfactions when used with the appropriate surfacer

brdn_drywall

I'm not exactlly sure of your question or if your even if your "dissing" me at all. I've never ran paint/surfacer through my mark iv, i have a regular airless for that, my machine is strictlly for mud, i'm a drywaller/taper not a painter would much rather work with mud than high build primer/surfacers to achieve level 5. As far as your claim that surfacers should fill minor surface imperfections, they would mean sanding scratches,photographing etc. its not a magic machine that you could do sloppy work and it'll magiclly fix it just because it has a high price tag.

amestaper

3 coats with a 7" (or 8") , 10", and a 12" for a flat finish. Occasionally use a 14" blade by hand for the more tricky joints where sheeting isnt hung flush. Thats the norm in Scotland, only ever skip the 3rd coat if theres a heavy ceiling texture or pattern to be done.

I've never had the pleasure of spraying joint compound, only ever rolled it or sponged which left a A1 finish.

*look up Graco mark IV on Google and add to wish list for next year*

Merry Xmas.

Bevelation

I'm curious, actually.... why do you really need to do level 5 finish on apartment builds?

brdn_drywall

don't go the distance on apartment buildings only certain walls in custom homes (feature walls,dark painted walls receiving direct sunlight) just explained it in that post with the level 4, never go past 4 in revenue properties.

Bevelation

^Oh, okay. Sorry, I missed that.

FOR THOSE ABOUT

Took the job to a level 4 (7, 10 and 12 box sanded with P/C and hand detailed) which is required prior to spraying Primer/Surfacer which I now understand you aren't familar with. Was not impressed as I stated earlier with at least the SW Builders Solution product which claims to cover 'minor' imperfections. I am a drywaller, I always prime my own work so that if there is any touch up I can do it. I also have a smaller Graco which I use to spray paint when I have the opportunity I would rather paint my own work only because of the area I live in all painters are T & M and will make more work out of someone elses so that they can go live on a job during the winter. Last job I did where painters followed they had moved in lounge chairs and microwaves! Was curious about spraying the mud, but as you describe it you are spraying it and tooling it down. My reasoning for using the primer /surfacer and purchasing the Bad Boy is to kill two birds with one stone which I believe if you take the job to a level 4 and use a product which is a little more like mud such as USG Tuff Hide then like paint (SW Builders Solution) you ought to be able to achieve this. Sorry for the length should have warned everyone to grab a cocktail prior to reading.

joepro0000

I don't know about you guys, but we bed it with a 10", and pull a tight 10" following by another tight 12". (or I use my 8" to create a 12", less stress on the wrist). P/C or Flex-Edge sand it, then fine tune it with sanding blocks.

brdn_drywall

i too know about shody priming the painters in my area spray such a cheap coat the quikly pull it off with a backroll and have considered doing what you do (prime myself then check for defeciencies) but the general hired on a good company and the others got better (by example showed others that you should not see flashing and photographing) so my life got easier.
I know what yur talking about with the high build primers (killing two birds with one stone) and if the product would co-operate great, but i have found that it is easier for me to work with mud, and no i don't touch it after spraying for level5 (just dilute it thin enough and it levels out fine) but then ya you would have to prime, or let the painters do it because you should have no deficencies.

FOR THOSE ABOUT

In am not going to switch topics, just curious because I met someone who claims to have legit exper. running the mark V (is it a V or IV). you do go back and forth. You are using it for differnt reasons apparently, I am not skipping coats and spraying a bunch of mud on the wall hoping the knockdown guy can take care of it. I am taking a job to a level 4 by tool which is two more coats with the boxes then you do. by the way my finsihed product looks like glass. That is why I also prefer to spray my finish coats...and when I take the job to the end which is what people want once they see the show, the Aura I am using now provides exceptional cover no rub-off and touch-up with a brush/roller is undetectable and you do not have to re-do a whole wall

Bevelation

Level 4 is only 2 coats on top of wiped tape. Does it really make that much difference to put a third skim coat on?