luckyrabbit

Hey there guys,

been surfing this site for a few months just as a guest and having fun listening to debates, pointers, highs, lows and different tricks. I've been taping for 8 years, am a self employed contractor but did the piece work thing but found it hard to get a good partner so decided to go at it on my own. I've worked the automatic tools although rent when needed to do custom homes and bigger renos. Do own angle tools which I agree with some that boxes and corner tools are more important as opposed to a bazooka. My question is? regarding sanding! I've first started out using the pole sander for finishing but found scratch marks were still tough hide and have switched to the small fine/med norton sanding blocks. it's great for quality finish but a lot longer to finish sanding then a pole. I do use 100 grit for the rough sand and would like to hear what others do for the final sand? I've heard use 220 grit and tear back the corners on the pole block to avoid long scratch lines and will get you a good finish, but am scared to try this on a job without trying it out and was looking for opinions. thanks LR

Bevelation

There are a few variables.

i) Mud used.
ii) Type of idiot painting behind you.

For a long time, I've used 150 grit as finish paper using ProRoc mud. The blue Wet-Kut cloth paper. It does the job without cutting lines so aggressively into your work. You can tear the excess right off so that your sander doesn't have any paper hanging over the one edge. I've also used a harder setting mud, so the lines don't show so much. If you use a soft mud, like most Synko muds, chances are 180 or 220/40 is what you'll need.

If the painter doesn't use good primer, or a primer at all, you'll also need to use finer paper than normal to hide the lines and cover your a$$.

Don't sponge everything! Sponges don't work down the mud the same way as a pole sander. Sponges will tend to round off ridges rather than smooth them off.

As preference, I don't hit angles with my sander, I leave that for sponging out with a light. I've used 200 and 300w bulbs, but currently I just stick with a 100w and run it flat along the wall.

For sponging bottoms, I just use a rectangle fine/med sponge. For tops i use a dual angle fine/med.

__________________
Quality doesn't cost. It pays.

luckyrabbit

must note, yes mostly have homeowners doing the painting which is why I've been trying to avoid scratch lines, since you don't know what cheap primer or paint their using, after all explaining to them to use good paint will give a better result often still doesn't register. I did forget to mention about the painters (HO) or hacks.

BTW Bevelation, have you ever used serta yellow paper from rona, or the norton rolls from HDepot. or ya get your stuff at a drywall place, btw using mostly cgc red and Blue for skim as for proroc can't stand the stuff pure garbage unless HO or contractor provide it.. although getting tough to avoid it seems like proroc is going to Rona more and more

Stormy_Ny

Best thing since slicled bread ....no ****.


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The ability to change directions quickly without having to lift the pad off the wall is a huge advantage over the conventional method of sanding drywall. The detachable foam disc forms to the wall, providing a smooth, even finish. Unlike the conventional sand pole, this foam disc wears evenly, greatly increasing the life of the tool. Both the foam pad and the sandpaper utilize hook-and-loop backing, making for easy replacement. Loop backed sandpaper firmly attaches to the foam disc, preventing debris from collecting behind the sandpaper, and eliminating a major cause of streaking.
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alltex

someone on this site turned us on to the black widow sander head,about the same thing only square shaped.It works great for me and they were giving them away free.it came with 2 or three pads with your choice of grit.i still havent wore out a pad!

gmillerdrywall

Try using 150 grit on a pole. I dont like the screens their the ones that scratch. Block sanders do the best job but r very time consuming. The mud is important too. Plus 3 is soft, Green lid is hard finish. This takes time and experience.
gmillerdrywall.com

D's

I'll second the radius system. Got two; one for rough pole sanding before finish coat(120 grit without the pad) and one I mounted a handle on(off a grout float) for final sanding all the walls and corners with my light(180 grit with the pad). You have to use a light on your final anyways so why not cut to the chase. The one with a handle is super comfortable, has great coverage, and you get great leverage for feathering out. The sponge(dual angle 150 3M Sandblaster) only comes out to detail and sharpen the corners - use one for too long and it'll make your fingers bleed and cramp your wrist.

I'll never use a rectangular pole sander again -too many accidental flips, bumps into corners, torn papers, and scratches no matter how careful you are.

D'S

Stormy_Ny

Apples and oranges man ..... I have the black widow also. The 360 blows it away.

Stormy_Ny

Hey anyone try this unit ???

http://www.bigjacktools.com/index.ph...roducts_id=206


[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Family/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Family/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG]

Bevelation

I don't buy from Rona or Home Depot, so I wouldn't know.

Proroc all-purpose isn't that great, but I love their green finish mud and taping. It's all I ever want to use.

If you stick with CGC blue or lite-line, 180/220 is ideal.

__________________
Quality doesn't cost. It pays.

TimberTom

We have been using that Radius 360 for a little while now, and love it. The pads are durable and it is very easy to maneuver. Great suggestion, Stormy_Ny!

Whitey97

Personally I think the radius pads are garbage and the black widow is gold. I use a PC for my rough sand though, so I don't need to pole much at all.

murbuddy

I have had that same problem that you have had when it comes to sanding. I have found using the RADIUS 360 using a 150 grit did wonderful results on flats and butt Joints when using a 500 watt light. And I pole sand the corners with 120 grit and just do a fast light sponge though and then it does not matter what kind of prime the painter uses

alltex

hows that power sander work for you.is it alot easyer ?

Taped Crusader

I've been using the rectangular version of the 360. I simply love it. I get the sanding pads with foam on the back. Doesn't leave lines and burns off any edges with ease. I use them for rough and final sand. I've never used the circular model, but a guy who owns one tried out my rectangular one and claimed he liked it better. How's the round one work for inside 90 angles? Seems like the larger surface area would make it tough to get any lines out of the angles and be tricky to get the take off lines out.

taper71

I got both radius 360 and black widow. I love them both but the blackwidow wins for me because it is lighter - usually just sponge the corners lightly.

Stormy_Ny

Thing is with the Black Widow is that you cant get pads easily .... At least not around here. With the 360 Sherwin Williams has them in stock all the time.

joepro0000

I use the radius 360 and flex-edge. Also have the black-widow, and Porter Cable. I love the radius 360, but for the last 2 years, I must of broken atleast 6 poles, don't know why, but the poles for it always break.

LSDrywall

I have both of the 360's and the black widow, to argue which one is better is pointless. That would be like arguing which sports car is best the porsche, lambo or the kia? go with eitherr of the top two and if you want a POS go with the old standard style screen sander.

Stormy_Ny

The Secret Weapon ..... After you get the field all done with the 360 ..... Inside Corners with the Gator ....HD has them ......or Lowes ....maybe both.

I have never used a better sander for inside corners. The hand model is great also.

http://www.zipsander.com/zip-pole-sander.html