durabond and joint compound

tapingtoolvirgin

hey guys new to this site, have been finishing by hand for a couple of years now. i just went out and bought some finish pro taping tools and was wondering what type of compounds everyone used for taping, bed coat and finish coat. i've always used a sheetrock 90 for my durabond and a ccg j/c for my bed and finish coats. thanks for the help.

1wallboardsman

It is hard to do better then USG Advanced formula for joint compound, Pro Form (Gold Bond) products have sucked since 1978, and still do. Now that you are a tool guy, get out there on the point with some durabond 150, 180, and 210 so that you can get away from that one bag at a time mentality and lay some quick set on the wall and still have plenty of time to clean up your tools.

jdl

butcherman

Stay away from quick dry till you get the hang of the tools. Use regular joint compounds. Once you get it down you'll know what to do with the quick sets.

tapingtoolvirgin

thanks guys, 1wallboardsman i live in canada and can't seem to find any durabond higher than 90, does anyone know of any dealers in canada that has durabond higher than 90. As for now i guess put my 90 on by hand and use my tools with the j/c. i didn't buy the taper yet. thanks for the help.

Mudslinger

....

rettt

Never use any quick set mud compounds in your bazooka or flat box's--- NEVER EVER ----. WALTIP.COM

1wallboardsman

And, the reason would be?????

jdl

cooper

Quick set mud in your bazooka... ? Seriously? First of all, the mud is garbage for taping. It has no bond value. If you want that tape to stick, seriously stick, you need taping mud. I've been using Beadex taping and Beadex lite all-purpose for topping for the last 4 or 5 years and have been pleased. Their taping mud is incredible, the lite all-purpose is inconsistent at times...

What are you taping? New construction or remodels? What size of jobs? Most of the jobs I am taping range from 12,000 to 30,000 feet of sheet rock. The house I just finished taping today took me and another guy about 20 hours to put all the tape on. We would have one expensive clump of metal and hot mud if we used the quick set for a job like this... Especially considering well over half the jobs do not have water when you are working on them... At least not in this town...

savant

Putting hot mud in a bazooka is crazy. with all the things that go wrong in life, why would anyone in their right mind do something like that?

The only bazooka that could handle something like that on a regular basis is a Blue2 taper. (because it's relatively easy to take the head off, so you could do it 6 times a day.) Remember, the set times are based on first mix. Anything leftover in the piston head from the first fill will continue to set up, and catalyze the fresh mud that you load in. By lunchtime, you'd probably have a wad the size of a soda can stuck in there...

I never tried it, but then again, I never tried painting a house with a toothbrush, either.

butcherman

I think some sarcasm may have been missed here. As the smiley may indicate

cooper

Yeah I think that was one of my first posts. I got on here and saw someone mentioning hot mud in a tube and about vomited...

Missed the post with the emoticon.

1wallboardsman

I just like to hear the knowledge behind the advise, it is always interesting to see that there often isn't any.

Easy sand durabond works so well in flat boxes and it works better then joint compound in a nailspotter, plus shrinkage is practically nil. It is so simple to just use 180 or 210 so that you have plenty of time to clean your tools, and of course you want to have a spray nozzle available. It is only cleanup that needs to be considered, durabond won't hurt any tools.

If I ever had reason to tape with durabond, I would use regular brown bag durabond, that is the one that put the bond in durabond, I would use the max 150, and I would mix it with half joint compound to retard it even more and make it creamy so it would work well. It would dry out in about 8 hrs., I'd have 2 hrs to tape, and 2 hours to clean the gun, but it would still only take the usual 5 minutes with a spray nozzle, and tomorrow, there will be dry tape on the wall.

Every now and then, there is some extra money on the table for the man that can get a job done a day sooner with the same sound quality. It is good to have a bag of tricks that will support cleaning that table off. jdl

butcherman

Taping with durabond works better with a banjo. Easier to clean,works with 90 ( only 20, 45 and 90 availible here) and can be quicker if you work a banjo often. We do this to knock out a kitchen or bath in a day. I love my bag of tricks.

fr8train

for the poster that said not to use hot mud in your tools, WHY NOT? We run hot mud exclusively. Never had a prob, but we do clean them often, and we make sure we clean them very VERY well.

As for the new hot mud getting set up quicker if it gets in contact with old hot mud. THIS IS VERY VERY TRUE!!! So be warned. but we use it to our advantage all the time. If I need to fill something, and there is some old mud around, I'll mix them and it'll set in about 10 mins. Had it happen in the tools once, long story, I'll vent later. LOL

butcherman

Keep in mind the person who started the post just bought the tools. They may not have the experience to run them productively enough to even attempt hot mud. Now in my area you can only get 20, 45, & 90. Running them thru machines also for some reason seams to accelerate drying. I don't use quick dry in in any tool except a banjo. Others have a different opinion. Do what ever works. If you can keep up with cleaning and be productive then do it. But this dosen't work fo everyone. That's why i said get comfortable with your tools before trying this.

Mudstar

DuraBond is better then cement.......

butcherman

That picture is better than anything posted.

butcherman

Now i'm a happy taper too.

brdn_drywall

hot mud certainlly has its uses mostlly reno-work,small jobs,and jobs that you need to coat the next day but if you have more than one job site at a time then there should be no debate that "regular" mud works best. certanteed mud (formerlly bpb before the takeover) is my choise. the hotmud debate will continue forawhile i'm sure

KingOfDrywall

I agree.....NEVER use it in your taping tube, but as far as the mud box goes I'm all for it. I , by myself ((bragging)) can bed AND SKIM about 250+ sheets in a day using the quickset easy sand. I remove the spring and screw from my mud box, and I hand feed it. NO mud PUMP, as that is just one more thing that can get ruined. I have a stiff paint brush and as soon as I'm ready to clean my mud box, I drop it in a bucket of water and poke at it with my stiff brush. I try to box so neat that all I do is go back, scrape off the lip or lap marks((no sanding)) than go back over it with plus 3 or something easy to sand. In summary.......I am a huge fan of running quickset through the mud box.