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Old 01-03-2010, 12:55 AM   #41
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the only time i've ever used a clincher was in Russia. I was hired by a vancouver company to tape 200,000bd/ft at a gold mine in far east siberia, arctic circle. they told me they had all the tools, they did not. no pole sander... i am not sanding 200,000bdft by hand. i saved all the sanding until the next trip, brought a sander and a mini tube.

the clincher is oldschool.
The clincher is old school, but will put your c-bead on level and square if your walls are framed right. Also its the fastest method to attach your bead.
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:36 PM   #42
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B-1 super wide I think has become the new standard in drywall. Paper bead is just plain quick and doesn’t crack. The only time I consider metal is for a small area or patch that I don’t want to mix taping mud for. I have been using B-1 super wide since the middle 90's and really like it. Use both the red hopper, and angle box to install.
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:14 AM   #43
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Anyone tried the new Hydrotrim by Structus? Same as No-Coat but a wet&stick type product. Looks fast

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Old 01-08-2010, 06:45 PM   #44
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Always thought that would be a good idea.Would like to know more,and the cost.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:44 AM   #45
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Anyone tried the new Hydrotrim by Structus? Same as No-Coat but a wet&stick type product. Looks fast

D'S
What a great product. Bet it's expensive though.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:37 AM   #46
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That would be great if it is the real deal. Any seasoned tapers out there try any of the hydro bead yet ? I can see that being a real time saver, I wonder how flat it fits against the wall with respect to fill ? I think I will try to get my hands on some to give it a try, you just never know.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:47 AM   #47
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I was just thinking a while back there were some posts regarding fire taping I thought using the same principle have to double check , but if that is the case perhaps the bead would not bond as well as portrayed in the videos, I wasn't so convinced on the comparison with the USG all purpose versus their tape with the water activated adhesive because it looked as if the mud was wiped to tight and there was absolutely no mud left on the sheetrock. Every time I have tried to peel off perfa tape after it drys it sure don't come off that easy, the paper separates and comes off in little bits and pieces.
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:57 PM   #48
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That would be great if it is the real deal. Any seasoned tapers out there try any of the hydro bead yet ? I can see that being a real time saver, I wonder how flat it fits against the wall with respect to fill ? I think I will try to get my hands on some to give it a try, you just never know.
I can't find any stockists online or a price. It is going to be tight as.... to the wall as there's no mud. Have you watched all the videos?

Here. http://straightonthewall.com/.docs/_...57eda/pg/10551
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:21 PM   #49
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I can't find any stockists online or a price. It is going to be tight as.... to the wall as there's no mud. Have you watched all the videos?

Here. http://straightonthewall.com/.docs/_...57eda/pg/10551

This might be helpful...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUvD9...eature=related

(Update....Arrrgggghhhh, just noticed this video was in Tony's link too...) Didn't mean to cramp your style buddy!
Last edited by rhardman; 01-09-2010 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:29 PM   #50
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This might be helpful...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUvD9...eature=related

(Update....Arrrgggghhhh, just noticed this video was in Tony's link too...) Didn't mean to cramp your style buddy!
No worries Rick.
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Old 02-07-2010, 05:43 PM   #51
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So where did the link go how come it was removed from youTube ? Any one know what happend ?
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Old 02-07-2010, 06:32 PM   #52
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Try this

http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:24 PM   #53
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Paper bead is more expensive but goes on atleast twice as fast. i About sh%t when i seen how fast these guys were putting it on using hopper. Metal bead stapled and meshed seems so strong like it would really stand the test of time. But they both end up cuppin and crackin the same. I always thought the best way of doin it was metal with paper tape. You could really tell the difference on your fill coat when you did that. It was real full and didnt shrink back much
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:38 AM   #54
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Gotta tell you gentlemen, none of that would fly on the high end jobs we're doing. On the production jobs we use metal. snap lines and staple it on.
On the high end jobs I figure a man putting up 12-16 sticks of bead a day. You can't get bead perfect by just snapping lines or using a crimper. It may look good but try putting an 8' level on it, or a plumb- bob. Worse yet, try putting a piece of finished millwork against it ( ARRRRRRRGHH!!!!!) The supers on some of our high end projects will make you tear it all down if it's not PIN straight. I've developed a system for getting it 100% all the time, but takes patience and a carpenter with good finishing instincts.
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:19 PM   #55
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Gotta tell you gentlemen, none of that would fly on the high end jobs we're doing. On the production jobs we use metal. snap lines and staple it on.
On the high end jobs I figure a man putting up 12-16 sticks of bead a day. You can't get bead perfect by just snapping lines or using a crimper. It may look good but try putting an 8' level on it, or a plumb- bob. Worse yet, try putting a piece of finished millwork against it ( ARRRRRRRGHH!!!!!) The supers on some of our high end projects will make you tear it all down if it's not PIN straight. I've developed a system for getting it 100% all the time, but takes patience and a carpenter with good finishing instincts.
I use my PLS 2 for a 6 ft level with stapes!
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:25 PM   #56
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I use my PLS 2 for a 6 ft level with stapes!
good system, certainly works for soffits, but try putting a straight edge against it after you're done...
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:26 PM   #57
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The clincher is old school, but will put your c-bead on level and square if your walls are framed right. Also its the fastest method to attach your bead.
no way. sorry to disagree.
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:21 AM   #58
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Default hydrotrimcorner
hydrotrimcorner or straitflex ?
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:34 AM   #59
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In my opinion Metal Corner beads should be paper tape after nail it correctly, iam sorry but not clincher and definitely not mesh on metal. You'll save some money and future dissapoinments. Paper tape and will not get any cracks.
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:35 AM   #60
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I just got a half dozen sticks of hydrotrim from my supplier. Let you all know what I think when I've had a chance to use them.

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