Cornerbead - Page 2 - Drywall Talk - Professional Drywall and Finishing Contractors Forum

wnybassman · 12-13-2009, 02:10 PM

When cracks happen, how was the bead applied? I'm trying to remember if I ever had a crack in a corner bead.

For the last 8 to 10 years I have stapled, and keep staples no more than 4 inches apart. Back when I hand nailed them on, I kept nails about 10 inches apart. I have always been been very anal about corners. I won't even let my dad touch them, putting them on or finishing. lol

big george · 12-13-2009, 04:36 PM

I guess every one mostly uses metal with staples.Paper bead seems to come in second,but no one talked about vinyl bead.

alltex · 12-13-2009, 06:32 PM

I think you guys are too darn fussy. You should only have to tape the bead after install if theres not enouph nails or staples in it ,or if the board is cut back too much or if its tape on if its blistered from too much wipedown.thats one thing i havent had much trouble with not to say i havent had to fix some.

**Darren@Partners** · 12-13-2009, 08:00 PM

Vinyl bead sucks for horizontal work, too limp. Why carry for only verticals?

Capt-sheetrock · 12-13-2009, 08:46 PM

mesh on metal??? I find myself at a loss for words

wnybassman · 12-14-2009, 02:38 PM

Next month we will be likely using No-Coat for the first time. This is just a finishing job for us, with multiple outside 45º corners. It is unlikely there will be proper framing behind them for metal.

Anyway, they seem easy enough to install and finish, but I have always had a question. How do you deal with the corner up against the ceiling? I suspect you cut it as evenly as possible and shove it up tight and let some mud squirt out to smoothen, but is that it? Any additional treatment?

Stormy_Ny · 12-14-2009, 03:01 PM

I have learned to take my time with the no-coat products. Making sure there is enough mud behind .... Nothing worse then voids on a long run. I have also leaned that "No-Coat" is an oxy-moron.

Muddauber · 12-14-2009, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt-sheetrock

mesh on metal??? I find myself at a loss for words

Me too!

R.E. Plaster · 12-14-2009, 07:47 PM

We use no-coat and run it through the hopper works great the one thing I learned is that you need to make sure your mud is on the juicy side we'v had good success with this product

Muddauber · 12-14-2009, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.E. Plaster

We use no-coat and run it through the hopper works great the one thing I learned is that you need to make sure your mud is on the juicy side we'v had good success with this product

Been using the no-coat stick bead about 2 years now. Very easy install, takes less mud to finish, and not a call back yet.

MIKE FROM NH · 12-25-2009, 12:55 PM

No Coat is a pain the ass to work with PERIOD, for mud on flex tape I prefer Straight Flex AND if cheaper! The OP was aking about corner bead. I use the cheapest method and that is vinyl, and metal is 2nd. Vinyl can be installed using nails, staples, 3m 61 spray glue, or mudded on. It can get bumped and it doesent dent, will not rust, doesnt cut your hands up. No hoppers and funky machines needed here! I'll do vinyl with staples or nails. Haven't found a h/o that gave a ratts ass. Builders don't pay more for upgrades like PFM or NC so they can kiss my ass. Further how long is your warrany? If sh*t is cracking...what about the lumber? foundation? temp? humidity %...point is too many factors. Use whats cheap, and fix YOUR mistakes if there is any not cracks caused by not drywall related issues...

TonyM · 12-25-2009, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIKE FROM NH

No Coat is a pain the ass to work with PERIOD,

No it's not! And you are a grumpus!

Tim0282 · 12-25-2009, 08:23 PM

I agree with Tony!! Mike is grumpy!!

alltex · 12-25-2009, 09:25 PM

We used to use a crimper back in the day too.Hold the bead in place ,push the crimper tight to it and BAM, hit it with a rubber mallot.No nails, the mud and the crimps held it on .Worked ok i,m sure some of you old timers did it .

Tim0282 · 12-25-2009, 09:27 PM

Sure did. And they cracked pretty easy. Hardly took a bump from the trim carpenter. Now with mud on beads, they can beat up all the want. At least they won't edge crack like the metal beads. Up about 18 inches.

MIKE FROM NH · 12-26-2009, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyM

No it's not! And you are a grumpus!

what are you talking about?

Bevelation · 12-26-2009, 11:32 AM

He's talking about your period.

McDusty · 12-26-2009, 12:12 PM

USG Beadex B1-Super Wide paper bead is all i will use. i thought metal beads were gone with the dinosaurs! Latex based paint does not stick to metal, that's why the switch was made. pre-90's, lots of oil based paints on the market, they stick to metal. post-90's, enter latex, no likey metal. metal/mesh, why do you like making your lives so difficult?

plastic Trim-Tex corners should not be stapled on unless you plan on doing 3 coats ontop of your bead, they will be hallow. they need to be mudded on.

no-coat 450 is great for inside/outside offsets, i would never use it for outside 45's though. to hard to work with. joining up corner bead is easy on long runs, just make sure your join isn't on a butt.

joepro0000 · 12-31-2009, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alltex

We used to use a crimper back in the day too.Hold the bead in place ,push the crimper tight to it and BAM, hit it with a rubber mallot.No nails, the mud and the crimps held it on .Worked ok i,m sure some of you old timers did it .

I use a crimper or a clincher as we call it, on metal and add staples to it for added protection. The clincher will set the bead square'd, and the staples will help it from cracking.

McDusty · 01-01-2010, 02:52 AM

the only time i've ever used a clincher was in Russia. I was hired by a vancouver company to tape 200,000bd/ft at a gold mine in far east siberia, arctic circle. they told me they had all the tools, they did not. no pole sander... i am not sanding 200,000bdft by hand. i saved all the sanding until the next trip, brought a sander and a mini tube.

the clincher is oldschool.

12-13-2009, 08:00 PM	#24
Darren@Partners Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: KCMO area Posts: 829	Vinyl bead sucks for horizontal work, too limp. Why carry for only verticals? __________________ www.partnersconstruction-drywall.com

12-26-2009, 11:32 AM	#37
Bevelation Just doing my job. Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Dawson Creek, BC Posts: 218	He's talking about your period. __________________ Quality doesn't cost. It pays.

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12-13-2009, 02:10 PM	#21
wnybassman Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Western New York Posts: 135	When cracks happen, how was the bead applied? I'm trying to remember if I ever had a crack in a corner bead. For the last 8 to 10 years I have stapled, and keep staples no more than 4 inches apart. Back when I hand nailed them on, I kept nails about 10 inches apart. I have always been been very anal about corners. I won't even let my dad touch them, putting them on or finishing. lol

12-13-2009, 04:36 PM	#22
big george Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: New Brunswick Posts: 48	I guess every one mostly uses metal with staples.Paper bead seems to come in second,but no one talked about vinyl bead.

12-13-2009, 06:32 PM	#23
alltex Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: washington state Posts: 150	I think you guys are too darn fussy. You should only have to tape the bead after install if theres not enouph nails or staples in it ,or if the board is cut back too much or if its tape on if its blistered from too much wipedown.thats one thing i havent had much trouble with not to say i havent had to fix some.

12-13-2009, 08:46 PM	#25
Capt-sheetrock Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NC Posts: 357	mesh on metal??? I find myself at a loss for words

12-14-2009, 02:38 PM	#26
wnybassman Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Western New York Posts: 135	Next month we will be likely using No-Coat for the first time. This is just a finishing job for us, with multiple outside 45º corners. It is unlikely there will be proper framing behind them for metal. Anyway, they seem easy enough to install and finish, but I have always had a question. How do you deal with the corner up against the ceiling? I suspect you cut it as evenly as possible and shove it up tight and let some mud squirt out to smoothen, but is that it? Any additional treatment?

12-14-2009, 03:01 PM	#27
Stormy_Ny Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NY Posts: 143	I have learned to take my time with the no-coat products. Making sure there is enough mud behind .... Nothing worse then voids on a long run. I have also leaned that "No-Coat" is an oxy-moron.

12-14-2009, 07:47 PM	#29
R.E. Plaster Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Illinois Posts: 39	We use no-coat and run it through the hopper works great the one thing I learned is that you need to make sure your mud is on the juicy side we'v had good success with this product

12-25-2009, 12:55 PM	#31
MIKE FROM NH Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South NH Posts: 22	No Coat is a pain the ass to work with PERIOD, for mud on flex tape I prefer Straight Flex AND if cheaper! The OP was aking about corner bead. I use the cheapest method and that is vinyl, and metal is 2nd. Vinyl can be installed using nails, staples, 3m 61 spray glue, or mudded on. It can get bumped and it doesent dent, will not rust, doesnt cut your hands up. No hoppers and funky machines needed here! I'll do vinyl with staples or nails. Haven't found a h/o that gave a ratts ass. Builders don't pay more for upgrades like PFM or NC so they can kiss my ass. Further how long is your warrany? If sh*t is cracking...what about the lumber? foundation? temp? humidity %...point is too many factors. Use whats cheap, and fix YOUR mistakes if there is any not cracks caused by not drywall related issues...

12-25-2009, 08:23 PM	#33
Tim0282 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Iowa Posts: 280	I agree with Tony!! Mike is grumpy!!

12-25-2009, 09:25 PM	#34
alltex Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: washington state Posts: 150	We used to use a crimper back in the day too.Hold the bead in place ,push the crimper tight to it and BAM, hit it with a rubber mallot.No nails, the mud and the crimps held it on .Worked ok i,m sure some of you old timers did it .

12-25-2009, 09:27 PM	#35
Tim0282 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Iowa Posts: 280	Sure did. And they cracked pretty easy. Hardly took a bump from the trim carpenter. Now with mud on beads, they can beat up all the want. At least they won't edge crack like the metal beads. Up about 18 inches.

12-26-2009, 12:12 PM	#38
McDusty Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: worldwide taper Posts: 125	USG Beadex B1-Super Wide paper bead is all i will use. i thought metal beads were gone with the dinosaurs! Latex based paint does not stick to metal, that's why the switch was made. pre-90's, lots of oil based paints on the market, they stick to metal. post-90's, enter latex, no likey metal. metal/mesh, why do you like making your lives so difficult? plastic Trim-Tex corners should not be stapled on unless you plan on doing 3 coats ontop of your bead, they will be hallow. they need to be mudded on. no-coat 450 is great for inside/outside offsets, i would never use it for outside 45's though. to hard to work with. joining up corner bead is easy on long runs, just make sure your join isn't on a butt.

01-01-2010, 02:52 AM	#40
McDusty Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: worldwide taper Posts: 125	the only time i've ever used a clincher was in Russia. I was hired by a vancouver company to tape 200,000bd/ft at a gold mine in far east siberia, arctic circle. they told me they had all the tools, they did not. no pole sander... i am not sanding 200,000bdft by hand. i saved all the sanding until the next trip, brought a sander and a mini tube. the clincher is oldschool.