Cornerbead

big george

Just wondering what everyone was using for cornerbead,and how your putting it on.

wnybassman

Mostly metal with a 1/4" crown galvanized 1" staple.

TonyM

No-coat Ultraflex 325.

silverstilts

I Use B-1 superwide, I like how it goes on, I use to use metal with 7/16 x1-1/2" staples. That worked good to but to much stuff to drag around. I found that the paper faced works better because it is bonded to the sheetrock and not tied into the wood with any fasteners so if there is any shrinkage in the lumber you will not have any beads crack or come loose. Even with the mesh over metal it will still let go when the wood contracts or expands. Tape on paper face will not be affected with the wood movement. I also like the No coat on long runs, little harder to work with but has some great advantages. Currently working on a home with one outside 45 that is close to 20' high from top to bottom, the No Coat works perfect for this application, one continuous run easy to keep plumb and level. Also the paper faced bead fills so much nicer.

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TonyM

Is that B-1 made by USG, as i'm about to start using their products here in the UK?

silverstilts

Yes it is made by USG but I have found not all USG paper faced bead is the same , for instance if I buy from a drywall supplier such as drywall supply or tamarack the bead seams more stiffer the metal is somewhat heavier , versus buying USG B-1 from say Sherwin Williams. It seems it is made somewhat lighter and has a tendency to buckle back off the angle, it just isn't as ridged, so USG must make a cheaper grade for different suppliers, go figure. Maybe someone else will chime in and testify to these findings.
Also there are other paper faced bead out there but again they are lightweight and are harder to install getting to stick to where they should.

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Darren@Partners

I'll back Silver on that cheaper grade of B1. Tried it and Phillips paper faced several years ago and absolutely despised both. No matter what we tried, all paper faced ( with metal) came off. But other guys seem to love the stuff. We used the hopper, AP and even hot mud. But no matter what method we used, it was a warranty nightmare and the USG rep was of no help as we'd tried Phillips bead alongside. The Phillips paper was less likely to flash for some reason.

My tapers loved the paper faced as they could put it on in 1/2 the time of metal with 1/4 crown staples. The paper faced was about 40% higher cost. So we are back to metal and staples, meshed. I don't get any of it cracking, unless someone hits it so hard that it dents. Then can sawzall the section out and repair. A superintendent removed 4 pieces on a column once. The episode required a boz of bandaids and further proved to me that stapled metal is there for life.

But next to a 20' high off angle LR fireplace, will use the big No-Coat for same reason as Silver.

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TonyM

Thanks Guys.

Stormy_Ny

What costs more ....Materials or labor

Paper faced blows metal away .....

TonyM

In the UK, the No-Coat bead is so expensive (equivalent to $62 for Ultraflex 325), I don't think the saving in material or installation time, would make it comparable pricewise with any other corner product. I still use it though because I like it.

big george

Darren.Is it the normal to mesh the bead.We use metal most of the time with no mesh.

big george

Stormy . Do you use paper on jobs that the framing is bad.

Stormy_Ny

I use paper almost a 100% now ...Good framing or bad. I think it is easier to correct bad framing with the paper .... Fastening metal and bad framing is the #1 reason I love paper.

alltex

I just use whatever i have or can get ,where i live the nearest drywall supply is 90 mi. away.our drywall comes from the lumber yard, my guys stock .we do have home depo but they don,t have anything speacial .I order ultra flex sometimes and go pick up stuff when nessisary too .i use 1/4 in. crown stapels or tape on ,whatever pleases me at the time to keep bordom down.never have very many problems with either.It is just drywall for god sake !!!

wnybassman

We've never had a problem not meshing the metal. We've seen it done, and always wondered if we should be doing it to. But if it ain't broke, don't fix it. We have paper taped metal before when the metal just barely laps onto the drywall. This seems like a likely situation to crack.

Whitey97

I also mesh my metal, when I use it. It's fine without, I've done it plenty. It's more of a quality control thing. You know it will never crack on the bead. It's just an assurance thing, in my opinion

silverstilts

The mesh can be good but have found sometimes the metal bead may have an oil film on them and the mesh will not bond like it should. There is also additional cost of the mesh itself while it may be minimal it still is an added cost not to mention the additional time to mesh both sides of the bead. Yes paper faced bead is not cheap, but you should weight the time it takes to install it . Less labor more income or less on material more income. Myself I would rather spend a few extra bucks and save on the labor. I do believe that coating them also saves you extra material if installed correct, you have the ability to press them on a little tighter against the sheetrock so there is not deep voids to fill, so you can use much less mud coating less mud = less trips to fill the pan. Overall a little time saved here and there across the whole project adds up in the long run.

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wnybassman

........and not all metals are created equal either. Our supplier has carried two different brands over the years and we refuse one of them if it shows up on the job. The one takes 2-3x longer to put on and finishes much tougher too. Generally just a big PITA. Couldn't tell you the brands, but we know them when we see them.

silverstilts

I remember many years ago some one had brought me some 1" metal corner bead on the job. I had no idea that something that dimension was ever made , If it wasn't bad enough using 1-1/8" the one inch was impossible the job would have had to be nuts on which it wasn't old apartment remodel. I told him to take it back to wherever he had found it, he told me he had had it for some years and thought I could use it up WRONG......

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Darren@Partners

Yes, we always mesh over metal bead. Had a sub taper skip it a few times and had a few hairline cracks. General consensus here is that it's pretty much required. But on a big apt. or low margin job, I might reconsider. That added cost of three or four rolls of mesh prevents even one call back, it's money and time well-spent.

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