Butt Joints?

Jay21j

Just wondering how everyone finishes Butt joints by hand or with boxes

I set by hand with a hawk and trowel and use chemical set plaster 45 minute (base compound) for all coats and air dry final coat (topping)
1st coat tape the joint (base compound)
2nd coat Skim the tape 12" wide down the middle (base compound)
3rd coat Set 12" left and right of the tape (24" wide base compound)
4th coat set 12" down the middle and 12" left and right (36" wide topping)

I’m about to start setting boxes could I do something similar?

carpentaper

that is a lot of coats. most guys here only do two coats after tape and a third only if necessary. whatever works though. i also don't like using the setting type compounds unless i have to for speed. i finish by hand with a hawk and trowel unless its in a tight spot.

carpentaper

i don't have any boxes but if i did i would probably never put setting compounds in them. JMO

Jay21j

Im from Australia and its very cut throat and we sett a standard house in one day sand off the next so we really have to use setting compounds otherwise there is no money in it

for flats
tape (setting compound)
8" 2nd coat (setting compound)
10-12" final coat (air dry)
sand off

So I would really need to be using setting compounds in tapers and boxes
does any one do this? any hints or tips

carpentaper

i'm just a newbie anyway. i'm sure someone else here can give you some other opinions.

Whitey97

Nope, I take my time and do it right. I only use setting compounds to fill gaps.

Jay21j

I’m not saying we are quick and ruff
But it’s what they are teaching from day one in the technical collage
And specified from the suppliers here
Base cote to bed the tapes and for 2nd coat
Topping to finish
They only really sell Base cote, Cornice cement and Topcote

So do you all use air dry for all coats?
Is it 24 hour drying time?

Whitey97

It's college my friend.

Yes, I air dry for all coats. It's always dry by the next day, it's been that way for 15 years straight!

brdn_drywall

atta boy whitey do it right the first time, stick with the air dry, gaps are all chemical setting/hot mud is good for.........come to think of it this is one of the first times I'm actually agreeing with you on something.

Jay21j

That is really good to know!
The manufacturers over here specify setting compound (hot mud) to bed tapes and for 2nd coat so we have to comply or they won’t guarantee their product
So you all set one coat per day?
What about small jobs 1 or 2 rooms?

tapingfool

When I coat butt seams, I do it several ways depending on what the job calls for. I may : tape normally then check the butt joint with a 3 foot level, then fill on both sides of the tape with compound (lite), then feather both edges, then with 1 or 2 swipes finish with a 2 foot knife up the middle. Or use a double seven inch box or double ten then to finish a double 12!!

Whitey97

Come on now. With over 400 posts I'm sure there's been more than just this one time!


Honestly I think I might buy 1 bag of "hot mud" per pallet of lite blue.
I tape 1/2 and 1/2 with all purpose (or close to it) and do the rest with lite blue.

brdn_drywall

about 397 of your 420 posts are one or two line wise cracks the other 23 are actually your profesional insite, but who's counting and we all come to sorta expect it anyway

19Riggs88

A butt joint can be nicely coated with boxes after joint tape is dry as follows:

For ceiling spray-
1) Split the butts with a 10" box set on "0" or wide open. To do this just run the box down each side of the tape with the wheel on the
center of the tape.
2) Run down the center of the butt with a 12" box set on "1"...note:you want to go down the centers with the box set so it is leaving just enough mud to cover the tape
3) Cross off the ends of the butts by hand

For knock down-
1) Same as above

For orange peel
1) Split the butts with a 10" box set on "0" or wide open running wheel down center of tape
2) Split the butts again with a "12" box set on "0" running wheel down center of tape
3) Coat the center of the butts with a "12" knife by hand
4) Cross off the ends of the butts by hand

For paint smooth
1) Split the butts with a 10" box set on "0"
2) Run down the center of the butts with a 12" box set on "1"
3) Cross off the ends of the butts by hand
4) Give the butts a finnish coat by hand

This sounds like extra steps but when doing a lot of ceilings or a big job that's when there is a huge difference on making the butts go easier.

Some minor tips are: Always put the box tight up to the corners when coating especially first time with the 10"

Always start and pull off within 2" of the seams recess

For nice smooth joints: when prefilling before taping get in a habit of filling all the butts automatically.
When wiping tape don't wipe too tight.

Steve

That's just about what I do except that I use the 12" box on the center AND the outside edges of the butts on the second pass.

19Riggs88

There are many interesting ways I've seen people use the boxes for butts.

For paint smooth it is best to do the finish coat by hand because boxes take a little getting used to to master not getting pock marks.

But it seems to me that for any type of texture the boxes do a very nice job on first coat for sure. It is easier to leave descent mud on both sides of the tape with a box. Plus I like using the boxes because it makes the job look more professional with perfect mud lines, etc.

Whitey97

I agree with you 100% ^

19Riggs88

Cool thanks....

brdn_drywall

last summer i subbed out finishing to a couple of guys who coated there butts without doing a final finish by hand the ones on the ceiling hid all right as i did a k/d but the wall ones needed a skim after prime, was not impressed and got rid of them after the 2nd house, can't figure out your time savings by the two coats with the box and a skim as compared to a 30" base coat with a skim over that for a final.

19Riggs88

You have to take into consideration that with a box I can coat each side of the butt with one stroke that takes about 5 seconds for each side (10sec per butt) on first step. Second step when coating down center is about 5 seconds. Third step is cross off the ends by hand like coating a row of screws 5 sec. These are perfect butts for Ceiling Spray or Knock Down. When on an apartment or big house with this finish you can really be efficient with a smaller tape crew properly using these tools.

For orange peel and smooth do the same as above but give it a finish coat by hand and you still gain production.