taper71

I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how to adjust the coaters blade so it achieves A nice feathered edge? Or will it even leave a feathered edge? I always seem to get a ridge- not a huge one mind you, but wondering if that is the norm. I wipe behind anyways so not all that of a big deal except on the ceiling. I like sanding the least amount as possible so ridges are bad lol.

1wallboardsman

I know that I am an "old dog" and therefore, either without knowledge or senile, but remember that you asked, and, that you can ignore the reply as the lunatic ramblings of another burned-out old fart, if you want.

Apla-Tech is an application (makework) system, not a finishing system. It's design is not the same as a flat box. The flat box is designed to be a finishing (dowork) tool.

Because of this design difference, the Apla-Tech coater is prone to leaving what an "old dog" would call, "the hard edge", because it's side skids (called shoes on a flatbox) are usually even with the blade. The blade needs to be slightly higher then the "shoe" to allow a limited amount of mud to pass over for proper feathering. Like a flatbox.

Back in the old days, the "old dogs" that understood this would adjust their blades out so that they would be higher then the shoes. Some of the "old dogs" used a piece of tape as a feeler gauge for this.

Does the Apla-Tech have this adjustment?

taper71

As I am just learning this tool I am open to any and all tips on the apla tech coater. I have enough knowledge on the use, maintenance, and set up of my personal boxes to get a really nice feathered edge and flat serface.
The apla tech system I have found to be worth its weight in gold for the corners, also for when I do each side of butt joints as you really can adjust the crown nicely compared to the flat box. Corners I have doubled my speed on finishing compared to the hockey box with a way better quality finish.
I have both apla tech ( air version) and my boxes at the job site. I find 2 differences with the apla tech .1- I can go alot further without having to fill up the apla tech saving me time . 2- is that instead of a knife( which I use behind my boxes), I use a curved trowel for the apla tech to wipe behind to get rid of the ridges that it leaves and at the same time finishing it flat and smooth. Having both sets on the job also speeds up my time because I can go that much further before filling up. I use my boxes on the cielings for what should be obvious reasons, and apla tech aswell as boxes on the walls. I don't use the 12" coater as it takes too much time wiping behind it compared to the nice skim coat that my 12" box leaves. That why my question is for the people with apla tech experience .

1wallboardsman

That is the Apla-Tech experience. For a small crew, it is a makework system. It is only time effecient for a 5 - 6 man crew that has 2 apprentices for wipedown duties, on a job that will support that production level.

jdl

tonyvlx

After using the apla-tech system for 2 years im fairly good at using the 10' coater.

kiwistopper

I have been using the apla tech for 4 years now and have found that setting the coater blade about the thickness of 2 peices of paper tape higher than the shoe works well. They are easy to adjust so u can quickly find a setting that will give you the result you want, I do find that the blades wear more set like this and are normally turning them over every 4000-5000 m2 or 15000sq ft .

Mudslinger

Forget waterboarding they should make POW's ues the Apla-Tech system!

brdn_drywall

i use my tapetech boxes with my aplatech system just drilled a hole, bought the handle presto a full pails use never have to run back to the pump again(need a steady mixer to keep up the pail level though) never bothered with those coaters though they look crude and wiping would probablly be needed

NH Drywall

I've been using Apla-Tech for about 8 years now. No ridges and works just as well as the standard finishing box (most of the time). The only time I see a difference is when a wall has a dip or wave in it the apla-tech does not always apply compound fully into those areas that need a little extra--
(I see your post is from DEC 07) So I hope, for your sake, you've figured it out! hah.
If you haven't-
The settings I use are 30pounds pressure to the cannon (Use the cannon regulator to control this).... Then turn the black and yellow controls 1/3rd open (maybe a little more on the yellow depending on compound thickness). Set the curve of the blade as you would on a regular box (1/4 open for flat seams)...
Your problem with ridging is probably due to too much mud being dispensed. Just turn the yellow control down a bit and you should be all set!

taper71

Thanks for the reply NH. I always just open the yellow fully and use the black to control mud flow . I have my compressor set at 95 and the regulator on the cannon at 35. I actually stopped flats with the coater all together and just use it on each side of the butts now. I find that around here it is better to just use the boxes for the reason you stated above. The framing is usually really wavey due to material and framers not being what they used to be so I end up having to fix less with the traditional boxes.
I will definately give your suggestion a try though just because I just landed a house with 10 foot ceiling and the coater will be faster coating the top flat from the floor other than stretching with the boxes and safer than putting on my stilts. I have gotten alot better with the coaters since I first posted, but still have a more consistent finish with my boxes.

Drywaller

Im assuming your using the CFS system?But im not sure,you say you dont have to run back to the pump.
Im in the process of buying a used apla-tech system and have heard of this (modifying flat boxes to work with the cannon)Could you or anybody tell me more about what you did and how?
Thanks

taper71

Drywaller
I am pretty sure you can only modify boxes for the CFS system. You need a way to be able to lock the box to finish your run and with the cannon it may be possible, but I would think it would be too big , heavy, and bulky to save you any more time than just running your boxes normally.

brdn_drywall

ya drywaller i use the cfs system i'm not so sure the origional apla system is worth investing in 1wallboardsman may be right about the make work system, but combined with graco cannot be beat for mass production.

JoeMudder

I don't recommend Apla-Tech tools if you want better quality work. I bought the big system which was worth about $5,000.00 and some of the other guys here bought the tools also and everyone said the same thing.

In fact, the guy they sent here to demonstrate the tools after I bought them used a knife to wipe everything down. When I talked to the rep at Apla-Tech I asked him what everyone was saying about them in this area. His reply was that they were all saying they are good to apply the mud with.

In areas that may not require the high quality they do in this area Apla-Tech tools may be ok, but for the cost and up keep they don't finish drywall a lot faster than I can with my hand tools.

In fact, I took the angle coater and bought a length of electrical conduit and cut it to a length of about 5 feet to make a handle and I put a fitting on the end of it that I could put the angle coater on. The 3/4 inch conduit and fittings will receive the Apla-Tech coating heads. Using an angle roller I applied the compound to the angles and wiped it out with the angle coater. I saved myself hauling the compressor and Apla-Tech tools and production was about the same overall and was easier on my body. It increased production enough that it generated about another $10.00 per hour.

drywallnflorida

anyone using the cfs systems??????????

what pressures are you runing for the taper, boxes, and angel coater??

what kind of mud thickness are you using for each?

I have purchased a set and am in the process of figuring the system out so any info is greatly app.

Thanks

JoeMudder

If you set the blade so it sticks out a bit, then turn the lever so the blade is arched a bit you should be able to get a tapered edge. But keep in mind, the Apla-Tech tools cannot do what a person does and will not taper as you can with a drywall knife. I've been able to second coat with it, but it's nothing like what a person can do. I have the 12 inch head and to skin coat with it I do not recommend.

I would use the Apla-Tech tools much like they do the mechanical tools, you need someone wiping behind you with a drywall knife.

silverstilts

I bought a set a few years back and now they sit in the garage with the rest of the junk tools there is no adjustment.... the only thing i use now is the pump which i like very well and somtimes the angle head and applicator for paper tape on beads.. otherwise as far as the boxes go i have never been able to set them to keep the edges smooth always a ridge..

NH Drywall

I'll still never understand why anyone would have flat boxes or apla-tech coaters and wipe down their work with a knife or trowel after they apply the mud. Sure if you're just learning how to use the tools - But, after you've become familiar with them there should be no need at all to wipe down after running the tool....
If you're wiping down your work - you should find someone who knows how to use the tools properly and take a few lessons.

Do you wipe down your angles and screws after running the machines too? >Semi-sarcastic<

PS: All work around here is level 5 or 6 -flat walls and ceilings- no texture. (And our drywall is expected to be as perfect as plaster - and always is)

1wallboardsman

Now that sounds a little more like some drywall talk.

JoeMudder

If anyone cares to try the apla-tech system I have a full set. You can see it here

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