Angle Head Combinations

Capt-sheetrock

No No No, 3 1/2 for tape and 2 1/2 for finish coat.

We are not hand finishing,, the bigger head first followed by a smaller head. If you feel that you need to go bigger on every coat, why are you not still hand finishing???

Next ,,,,,,

Bevelation

I'm not sure if that would work with BTE flusher systems.

If one feels they need to go bigger on every coat, why would it matter anyway? It all takes the same amount of time when coating.

__________________
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Mudstar

I beg to differ


JS


Shhh capt.....

Saul_Surfaces

when I used BTE flushers I used to have to always go bigger. I don't know why exactly. Must have had something to do with the fact they had narrow skids instead of guides the whole width. using a 2.5" flusher after a 3" left me with too much build.

I follow my 3" tapetech head with a 2" now that I use proper angle heads.

taper71

Capt yor probably the only one that could get a nice tape coat using the 3 1/2 first because you use the mudrunner to tape with. I use a 3" to tape and a 3 1/2" to finish, but I also give a fast rough sand before final coat to take down any ridges and shape the mud flat where needed. I ve tried finishing with the 2 1/2" but it just don t feel right to me lol.

2buckcanuck

this is one battle that you could fight over till the cows came home.I won't even get into my system ,for I know it's more time consuming but it's easier on my body (shoulders gone and getting old).I have found if you half to join forces with another machine taper angles are the 1st thing you will fight over,The second thing you will fight over is corner bead [ how to put them on,what type ,2 coat them,2 and 1/2 coat them,3 coat them,use sheet rock,dont use sheet rock etc .hand tapers work better in conjunction with each other ,as opposed to their machine taper counter parts,BUT hand tapers usually union with foreman calling shots all day ,while machine tapers are independent and their own boss.
So the only right way of doing things is the way I do it,and every one else is wrong do I sound like a typical taper.

Mudstar

Aggeed on everything......

Capt-sheetrock

I agree on everything also,,, except that MY way is the best way,,,,

michel1949

i have read the whole post
and found out that everyone is different

the last job i done was by hand i dint had any mechanical tool then i took 2 weeks vacation and in the meanwhile i got some mechanical tools
the taper, the boxes, the corner roller, the angle box with a tapetec 3 inches angle head
so i read this post to know if i would buy a 3 1/2 to flush and use the 3 to finish
or if i should use the 3 to flush and get a 2 1/2 to finish

as of for now i think the best decision would be to use the 3 inches to flush and the same 3 to finish and see what will happend and if i am not satisfied i will then get the 3 1/2 or a 2 1/2

i would like to thank everyone who has contributed to the post at least i got the idea on how to work with the angle head(s)

thanks for your time and patience

2buckcanuck

the boys from Columbia should be jumping in on this thread.The place where I buy my tools and get repairs(use to be called ib*)state the MANUFACTURERS recommend big to small for mechanical,small to big for can am,but there's so many ways and different tools now .come on columbia ,chime in

Mudstar

agreed agreeing

proficient Mudder

I honestly have never used anything but a 3 inch head. I feel that it's all in the framing, hanging and how the tape is rolled in when taping out that decides a bad angle. if the angle comes out with and edge, I normally will just hand skim any edged areas or high spots that tape might show that might be a pain to sand over the norm.

Bill

ColumbiaTechSupport

It is all in user preference for sizes. If you are only going to own one anglehead I would say you should go with the 3". I prefer to work down in size starting with a 3" or 3.5" and finishing with the 2.5". It is much easier to run the cornerbox for your finish coat with the 2.5" also it is easier to run inside the first coat rather than try to feather out past it and an added bonus you save mud finishing with the smaller head.

Aaron

cazna

Do you guys that run a 3.5 or 3 first then a 2.5 last have any trouble withthe 2.5 edge scratching at all, I run a 2.5 then a 3.5 becouse i thought that the 2.5 last may scratch things up a bit, i guess it does not? Im a mudruuner user so dont need to push much, might give the 3.5 then a 2.5 a go, The old man at drywallmaster tools told me to run it that way so there must be some merit in it, just seems arse about?? you dont start with a 12 box working down to a 7 do you??

proficient Mudder

My thoughts would be that I would be sanding a double edged angle from the 2.5" size heads? I hate sanding, so skimming for a miminum of dust is a must.
I haven't used the smaller head other than the 3", so just curious how hard it is to sand the angles out with the 2.5 over the 3" ?

Bill

ColumbiaTechSupport

It's different for the angleheads, like I said it's preference, you can do it either way unlike the boxes. The only way it will scratch things up is if the blades are too sharp. The sanding is about the same whether you do it small to big or big to small, either way you are just cleaning up anything that is left behind whether it is inside or outside the first coat.

proficient Mudder

[quote=ColumbiaTechSupport;15555]It's different for the angleheads, like I said it's preference, you can do it either way unlike the boxes. The only way it will scratch things up is if the blades are too sharp.
quote]

Speaking of blades being to sharp, with a new tool or a changed blade I always take a piece of sandpaper and sand just alittle on the blades corners to make it smoother eliminating scratching/cutting into the board.

Bill

DSJOHN

For what its worth---I roll the angle then glaze immediately with a 3" flusher-next day I run my 2 1/2 angle head with my apla-tech and my angles are complete [except for fixing the 3way]

Capt-sheetrock

I use a 3 1/2 to first coat, cause with 54", the bevel is wider than 48" and the 3" doesn't cover as well. I use a 2 1/2 (preferably) for the second coat. If your smaller head is leaveing a ridge on the corner, it is not adjusted right. nuff said.

As far as boxes go, you can run the big box first, the smaller second and you will not see any differance. Tools will not leave any noticable edge on "mud", meaning that the "ridge" problem only occurs on "paper" not on mud.

I could be wrong,, but I'm not !!

SaskMud

Well I tried it out... sounds crazy in my head it was rediculous, but as long as you have the right mud consitency, and with that 2 1/2 not caking it on... like one of my guys did in the closet (that god it was there... not in the room with 5 windows pointing to the noon's sun....)

I ran a quick light 150 grit (or a heavyer 180) and finished with a 220, and then finished the non-polesander-able areas with a fine sponge

Great advice capt!